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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1275 CLUTCH SAGA CONTINUED
|Finally getting a clutch pedal but have noticed that when pedal is getting fully depressed, the slave cylinder piston is nearly popping out before the clutch is dis engaged.|
Has anyone else encountered this ?
Its as if the pushrod needed to be an extra 15 mm longer ?
Is there 2 lengths of rod or can anyone shed any light on this before i end up torching this car ?
Gary Co Durham.
|Update. Found out theres 2 lengths - i have the longest one fitted 75mm :( |
Anyone ever welded in an extension ?
|Have you got the correct release bearing fitted??|
|New clutch kit. Bearing looked as old one.|
|Is the release arm bent?|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|I haven't said it for a while but here goes: there are books with this stuff in, and photos as well.|
There are at least 4 rods and there are 2 arms (not counting the MM arm).
|I forget, is this a 1275 with a diaphragm clutch and all new parts? If so, then as it beds in a little the slave piston will move back up the slave a little and may not get quite so close to popping out. However Dave's question makes sense, bent clutch arm is fairly common.|
A quick fix is to slip a 7/16 nut into the cup shaped end of the slave piston. With the end of the pushrod nestled in the nut it won't readily drop out but will effectively length the pushrod by about the right amount.
Taken everything onboard and will have another look tomorrow as had to walk away today ! :)
|I have had one complaint of a person with a 1275 who had bought a new clutch kit which included a 1098 release bearing. He now has one of my roller release bearings.|
Another complaint of a purchase of a new yolk that was in fact bent requiring a 15mm extension to the pushrod. This has now been replaced with a correct straight yolk.
Is your yolk bent?
As Daniel states there are books on this and an alternative to the carbon release on P83 of the latest edition.
|I bought a 1275 kit and it had a 1098 bearing in it. release in it. I returned the kit with and took along an old bearing to show the supplier. We checked a couple of kits and they were all the same. I got my money back. I found a NOS AP clutch on a well known auction site and all was well.|
|Ready to scream ! Extended the slave to fork pin and made no difference. Removed the boot and noticed that the arm is fouling the rear of the belhousing arm hole before clutch disengaging :( Looking like a bent arm. |
1. Can you buy them new and where from ?
2. Can i leave the box in situ and just ease engine out of way to replace arm ?
|That could be a bent arm, or as others have suggested, the wrong release bearing. Either way it's going to need the engine lifted out completely to get at it.|
Bite the bullet! Engine removal is no big deal.
|Guy, to me its a big deal|
Just put the thing in, all hoses connected, ancillaries on - luckily no fluids yet.
Still, what else would i do on a Bank Holiday weekend !!
|Look on the bright side - if it's only just gone in all of the nuts will come off easily. Undo the manifold to head nuts and pull the whole thing as much as possible to one side and secure it with wire or zip ties. No need to undo the exhaust downpipe or any of the carb controls or connections though you may need to remove the air filters to give extra clearance.|
With new nuts and connections and knowing the correct spanner to reach for for each fastener, it is quite easy to remove an engine in a little over an hour. Putting it back takes about 25% longer.
|Just over 40 mins. Arm visibly bent :( |
New one arrives Wednesday. Will post picture of them side by side.
|That is quick. Well done!. My "a little over an hour" was from a running car, driven into the garage, but l know that others do it faster. |
My point was those who haven't tackled the job before can build it up in their minds to being a job of several days duration, when in practice it is easier than many other seemingly lesser jobs.
|Good job....i still dont want to be you|
This thread was discussed between 20/05/2017 and 27/05/2017
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