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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 180 Degree's out ??

Hi Gang.

The freshly rebuilt car of mine runs fine, idles, pulls nicely, shuts off without run on etc. After a drive on Friday eve it wouldn't re-start the next day. I previously thought the starter was having a hard time and it did sound slower than normal so I took that out and bench tested it, and all appears to be fine. Having taken the dizzy out to improve the access, is it possible having replaced the starter to have the dizzy drive 180 out as it now wont fire ? I know you can get the dizzy drive 180 out, but the dizzy ??

I ran out of time to try it round the other way (job for tonight) but as access is awkward, and the dizzy is on my bench, I thought I would seek confirmation from those in the know. . .standing by for the wealth of knowledge !

peter
P Bentley

I'm assuming it's a 1275. Unless you removed the dizzy drive (and why would you?) there is only one way that the dizzy will fit. If the engine will not fire then the cause is elsewhere. Have you checked that the plug leads are in the correct firing order? If OK then something you disconnected to remove the dizzy is still disconnected (got the rotor arm in place, low tension connected etc, etc.).

Chris
Chris Hasluck

thanks Chris, you have told me what I thought to be the case. . .and yes its a 1275 (should have put that)
As I say, it purred like a kitten before, and will do again, I just need to get under the bonnet later. . .thanks all the same
P Bentley

As implied above, if you did not rotate the engine after removing the distributor, and then replaced it it would obviously be in the right orientation and not the cause of the problem.

If the engine was rotated at all, I would suggest turning the crank until number 1 is on the firing stroke at TDC, then reinsert the distributor so that when engaged with the driving dog the rotor arm is pointing to the cap terminal that goes to the number 1 plug.
Make sure the crank is on the number 1 firing stroke TDC position (both tappets loose) because if it isn't then the timing will be 180deg out.

That usually causes all sorts of popping and banging and unhappy noises, not just no starting.
JB Anderson

Doesn't matter if the engine rotated, as long as the distributor drive wasn't taken out. And there is no suggestion that it was.

The drive slot is slightly offset. Unless you force it, I can't see how you could put the distributor back in 180 degrees out.

As mentioned, double check the firing order 1342.

But since the problem began 'prior' to taking the distributor out, and presumabley the leads off, I'd be looking for another cause.

Lawrence Slater

I think it is technically possible for the dissy drive dog to partially engage in the slot of the drive gear with it 180 degrees out, but you can't fully insert the dissy.
Dave O'Neill2

sounds like a fun evening for me ! :) thanks to all
P Bentley

I hate to say it, but what ever it is, its going to be really stupid and take several weeks to find.... ive seen this thread 10 x a year, and it always ends the same

Do you have fire

Do you have compression

Do you have fuel

Are they all working togather at the same time

Good luck

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Just curious... did you have good fire at the plugs and the engine really hot when the starter was acting slow?

I ran into that a bit several weeks back when the carb float needles were sticking off and on, it would stave the back carb and run the engine lean, if the front stuck then it wouldnt start...I had to pull the float lid, give it a giggle and watch for the needle to fall back down...then reassemble and good to go for a while longer

Lots of miles later covering the past several weeks the needles are doing much better, but the back one still sticks occasionally

Im not saying thats your problem....but ive seen several threads on this on the net esp with the rubber tipped needle

Good luck

Prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

This thread was discussed on 12/05/2014

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