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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Anti-Roll Bar Removal

Afternoon
I'm replacing the bushes to the front suspension on my 1500. Lowered the spring (long bolt method) came out a treat. Fulcrum pins out with old outer bush. the inner bushes are still "sandwiched" between wishbone & chassis.
I'm also replacing bushes to the roll bar. D brackets undone.
This is where I'm stuck. The lower link attaching the ARB is unbelievably tight. I for the life of me cannot undo it. Is there some sort of knack. I "marinaded" all the bolts in Plus Gas twice over a period of a week and a half. They all came undone a treat except the ARB bottom link.
Once these are removed how do I Get the inner bushes out from the wishbones.
The front is up on stands
Many thanks
Regards
Nigel Axtell
Nigel Axtell

What is the rubber like in the ARB links? If it is perished and you are planning to replace the links, just cut them off with a hacksaw (been there, done that...).

Jon
Jonathan Severn

Hi Jonathan
Thanks for the quick response. Do you mean cut off the links - see attached photos. The rubber between them looks a bit knackered. The top bolt is a equally tight




Nigel Axtell

Lots of heat is usually the answer to seized bolts/nuts/bushes. A good blast from a blow torch should help loosen most things.
John Payne

The exposed rubber you can see often shows signs of perishing even though the rubber you can't see, the bulk of it, is fine. I would avoid using much heat in case you damage it. Can you undo the one on the wishbone instead.
David Billington

If you can undo the 3 bolts holding the drop link plates to the wishbones, and the ARB mounting bolts to the chassis, you can then at least take it all to a bench. Assuming you have a good vice there, it may make things easier. Have you tried using a breaker bar or similar to give you more leverage on the nuts? It sometmes surprises me how much easier it makes it having more leverage and also more control for undoing siezed nuts.

Also, once removed you could maybe take it to a tyre depot/ garage and get them to try their air impact driver on the nuts.
GuyW

I've left for the day now, bit more plus gas overnight. I may try the removing at the plate (3 bolts). The nut on the link at this point is exceptionally tight as well. If they come undone like all the others at least I can get it onto a Bech as suggested.
Many thanks
Nigel Axtell

Nigel,
from your photo, did you wire brush the rust off the exposed threads before using soaking in PlusGas, and PlusGas on the link on the other side of the bar as it looks dry.

Did you try to slightly tighten before trying to loosen to break the rust/crud seal?

I've not had PlusGas fail on rusty bits, wire brush both side of the link and leave to soak again. Then use a spanner or long grips to hold the rubber side still whilst using a spanner or ratchet with extended handle handle in some way for extra leverage. If you can get someone else to hold rubber side still whilst you put your efforts into the nut that might help too.

Because of its position you might not be able to utilise fully your group of muscles and/or limb leverage.

For PlusGas remember, soak for as long as possible, overnight or more if possible, try tightening before loosening.
Nigel Atkins

Thanks Nigel
I’ve brushed & re-marinaded overnight. The sun is up, another day begins, fingers crossed
Nigel Axtell

Nigel,

If the wirebrush, Plusgas and time haven't done the trick...

If you can remove the ARB plates from the wishbones (three nuts and bolts each) you can, as Guy suggests, remove the ARB complete with drop links. If the rubber in the links feels OK, despite looking perished from the outside, I'd be tempted to leave the links attached to the plates and ARB. If you replace the ARB links it is almost certain that the rubber in the new ones will be p*ss poor and you will have to replace them again before too long. It may sound like a bodge but, if the link rubbers are OK, I'd leave the big nuts alone and just wire brush everything (ARB, links and plates) and paint it all as one assembly.

On the other hand, if the existing rubbers are loose and you have to replace the links, try a nut splitter or cut through the big nuts with your weapon of choice. Be sure to cut through the 'nut' side of the ARB link, as I think the other side is countersunk into the ARB and plate, respectively. Even if you cut flush on the 'wrong' side, you won't be able to get the unwanted part out of the ARB or plate because of the remaining metal that is still holding it in place (my memory may be playing tricks on me, but I have a feeling that was the mistake I made about 25 years ago...).

Jon
Jonathan Severn

This thread was discussed between 29/12/2020 and 30/12/2020

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