Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.


MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Engine removal

What do people recommend for lifting a 1275 engine out in respect of attachments to the crane ? I have used old seat belts under the sump until now but they have just about had it and looking for a better solution What about the “ a series” brackets that bolt to the rocker gear and a levelling device ? Getting the angle right was always a bit tricky with the seat belt system .
Mike Fairclough

That's the way I do it.
Bob Beaumont

I use the brackets and a chain. I lift it up and forward so that the gear box clears the cross member then set it down and relocate where the chain is grabbed. Since I pull the engine every 10 or 12 years, I never got a leveling device.

Not a 1275 but I faced a similar dilemma with the GT6 engine I pulled recently. I had the lifting gear on the engine brackets but to control the angle of dangle I used a cheap webbing ratchet strap between the gearbox and the the hook on the crane.
Photo attached gives the general idea. This is a 50mm strap but one of my 25mm cheapoes would have been just as effective. Hope that helps.



That's a very neat tip using a ratchet strap go sort the angle of dangle, thanks.

We finally get to see your pal's GT6, or part of it, that pops up in your threads from time to time related to driving and looking after it.

That looks a great spacious and tall workshop, even got an on B&D Workmate as an engine stand.

Hope the whether in Kintyre not too wild! Greetings from the Ayrshire coast.

M Wood

Thanks for the ideas I think I’ll invest in a levelller . That Tiumph engine is a big lump , it was sizeable in the saloon I had never mind a GT6 .
Mike Fairclough

I have always used the same technique on all sizes of A block engines. Remove valve cover, wrap a chain around the rear exhaust manifold port, over the valve train and attach to the generator?front mount area. Location of the lifting hook determines the angle of the engine/gearbox. Also unbolting the motor mount from the frame on the distributor side and the motor mount from the engine on the carb side makes removal easier. As I write this, I realize that works for LHD cars. Reverse that for RHD cars. The idea is to avoid the the steering shaft while not fighting with the angle of both motor mounts. Replace in the same fashion.
J Bubela

This lifting bar very useful as in this position the engine is level and if you turn it 180 degrees it holds the engine/engine+gearbox at the correct angle for refitting, this picture is as you can see on a B engine but is the same for an A series only a bit shorter, also great for BL FWD cars, on two front head studs, tips the engine for removal, and when out fitted to rocker cover studs, with flywheel removed and turned 180 degrees lifts engine dead level for removaland refitting of the gearbox, very simple to make

Andy Tilney

As you can see in this picture the bar is turned 180 degrees for refitting engine I did have 3 of these bars at one time, 1 for A series, 1 for B series, and 1 for C series, engines, but this is the only one I have left, due to lending them out and never getting them back

Andy Tilney

Here's my effort
James Paul

And why not James? My dad and I must have done it dozens of times just like that with a Spanish Windlass hitch to control the angle. I don't remember ever having a problem doing it with ropes.

I have used the brackets on rocker cover studs before but then I bought a Clarke 4 way leveller from machine mart. It's a bit rough and ready (chains and eye bolts) but makes the job much easier, especially the refitting stage when you are trying to thread the gearbox in and get mountings lined up.

I attached it to the engine with longer bolts through some of the block tappings, can't quite recall which now.

I used to use rope but since I've had my new big mate, well we don't use anything, just a jack under the bellhousing to stop the box dropping and he just reaches in and hands the motor out------------------lol
William Revit

I've managed with ordinary polypropylene rope -
here's the engine and (recon)gearbox going back in.

M J Chapman

Yeah' that's the go ,no need for all them fandangled multi hole screw along double ended multi purpouse adjustable finger grabbers , rope is good
--you'll need to get a move on though the weekend's nearly here----------
William Revit

A few years ago I had plastic coated braided steel lengths made up with loops on each end - made by a rope and tackle outfit. Used them for years on one job at work. Later, I used them for engine extraction and they were perfect however, I helped a friend remove the large, beautiful and very valuable engine from his Lancia Aurelia. As I lowered it down almost to ground level one of the loops slipped out of the crimp and the engine dropped.
Luckily it was only a drop of about an inch. Imagine what would have happened if it had dropped several feet onto the gorgeous ribbed, cast aluminium sump!
Clive Berry

did similar with a Milodon trapdoor sump on a Chev once, had the engine on the engine crane with the jib fully extended ready to drop in and the whole thing end for ended, wrecked the expensive sump ,squashed it flat and theoilpump housing----poo
William Revit

This thread was discussed between 10/11/2018 and 16/11/2018

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS now