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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Exhaust bracket rear

Hi. I'm still suffering vibration from my newly built engine. You may have read in another thread that I have had another mechanic tune it, tappets, new plugs etc but I am still not happy. I was checking round today and I have found a loose rear exhaust mount. I know this will not be the source but loose anything is not good so I am fixing it. I notice that the bracket shown below only had one bolt where there is place for 2 going into the boot. The holes in the bracket are not wide enough apart to match the boot holes and the welded nuts. Do I just have a naff bracket? I am making one hole into a slot and going to use a big thick washer over it

W Clough

Im sure moss sells the factory correct parts, but unless its a concourse... its just hill billy engineering

I once ran my entire exhaust system on an old mazda pjck up off of bailing wire due to the rust and no mounting points... it passed inspection as it wasnt leaking

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

there are loads of possible variations to the exhaust bracketry

is your car factory standard and exhaust, do you have a Heritage shell or a non-standard exhaust

that bracket is much better made made and finished than I'd expect from the supplier

it looks like GEX 7365 from a twin box exhaust (EX - exhaust) so should fit to boot floor along with spacer, bush, insulating washer, washer and nut to hold the exhaust but not need any other parts or alterations

I had a lot of messing about with my exhaust because I'm on a Hertiage shell with no-standard exhaust not sealing so tried different combination of exhaust bracketry until I finally came to my senses and had a custom made centre pipe and no problems since

an exhaust knock is usually very noticeable and usually sounds a lot worse than it actually is
Nigel Atkins

Thanks Nigel. No I have original shell. The photo of the bracket was off the internet. The holes in the bracket do not match with the 1 15/16" centres in the car. They are much smaller hence only one had ever been used
W Clough

Walter,
the bracket you've illustrated if not GEX 7365 might be the earlier bracket GEX 7169 - but as far as I know both were used on the twin box exhaust where the back box goes across the back of the rear of the car with the tail pipe exiting on the right side of the car (as you look at it from the rear, the off side, driver's side)

sometimes the same photo can be used for different parts so don't take that photo as gospel though it looks right for the later bracket

don't say I don't do anything for ya, I've just laid on the floor in my favourite sweatshirt

. . . good job it would have been used for rags had I not washed it again

anyway the boot hole centres on both sides of my boot are 1 and a quarter inches (1 1/4") to centres not 1 and 15/16"

so are you looking in the right places or could you be trying to fit the wrong bracket - perhaps bracket GEX 7169 has wider gapped holes

or you have a straight exhaust that exists on the left hand side (near side, passenger's side) as you look at the car from the rear
Nigel Atkins

Walter,
I've just looked at your exhaust manifold, that's not factory standard so perhaps the rest of the exhaust isn't too
Nigel Atkins

Nigel. I fitted the LCB manifold but it replaced another lcb. I also had the rest of the system replaced in stainless 14 years ago. The welded nut in the boot are 1 15/16" centres. I do have the original pattern cross box on the back. Either the bracket is wrong or the boot welded bracket is wrong. It's no big deal really as Prop says it's hill billy engineering and I can deal with it. I just wondered if anybody else had experienced this. I doubt it will resolve my vibration issue but at least it will be another fault cured. As you said on the other thread I need to get dirty. Here is the engine before it went back in

W Clough

Well theres your vibration problem right there

To me it appaers to be the Wrong harmonic crank case pulley

It should be a 2 pulley and its not linned up with the fan /water pump pulley.... its to far forward

So whats the condition of the rubber inside the crank pulley anway

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

What engine is this ?... this is not a standard A-series 1275 engine

Is this an itla ??? (Sorry spelled incorrectly) Maybe a jap datsun A 10 to 15 ... the oil filter is in the wrong place and the oil drain plug is the wrong place also and the block ribbing is wrong ...as in almost no ribbing, theres to much meat between the cly, the bottom of the block deck is really fat...

The more I look the more I see thats wrong

Its a good looking engine, but I have no idea what it is, just a qusi variant of the BMC a series 1275

Engine vibration... hmmm, that could be if your crossing various parts

Didnt you mention your builder had some strange issue with the main bearings not being the proper ones in the rebuild kit and had to special order them...I maybe wrong on that

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

The engine was out of a 1275 Sprite hence the AH colour. I decided to stay with this colour which saved it looking naff if it started to get chipped and I also think it looks good. Just a standard A series but the bores have liners. There was no main bearing problem. Last time it was out as you may recall it had the flywheel removed, new starter ring fitted, and new clutch pressure plate. The guy who did that is working full time now and no longer does work for the local club. It has been to a tuner and set up on a Krypton or Sun or similar. He said it was OK. It seems it is only me who can tell the difference with how smooth it used to be. The number plate vibrates on tickover out of gear stationary. I'll get there somehow or if not it will have to go which will be a pity after 14 years
W Clough

I had the same problem with the holes not lining up, there was a new rubber mount in a box of bits that came with the car and when finishing off for mot I noticed the mount on the car was broken. I just filed the hole into a slot to get it to fit and its fine now.
Alan McKewan

Thanks Alan. That's more or less what I've done. Why can't they make remanufactured parts properly.
I notice I am getting 2 threads mixed up here and as the bracket situation is easy and soon to be fixed I'll post anything else to with vibration on the correct thread
W Clough

Prop


Is this an itla ??? (Sorry spelled incorrectly) Maybe a jap datsun A 10 to 15 ... the oil filter is in the wrong place and the oil drain plug is the wrong place also and the block ribbing is wrong ...as in almost no ribbing, theres to much meat between the cly, the bottom of the block deck is really fat...

The more I look the more I see thats wrong"

What are you talking about. Thats about as normal a 1275 block as I've seen (if such a very nice paint job were in anyway normal ;-))

The oil filter extension/housing isn't bolted on - because the holes are being used for a lifting eye.
Dean Smith ('73 RWA)

Walter,
if we're both measuring the same holes then perhaps your year of car needs the earlier GEX 7169 with perhaps the wider spacing, where as my later car needs the later GEX 7365 with 1 1/4" spacing - you just might have the wrong part rather than it being badly made
Nigel Atkins

I've cut away the hole at one end the bracket so it's an open slot and made a plate out of dexion to place over the top. All bits painted in chassis type black. You are right that the bracket fitted was probably the wrong one
W Clough

well your question helped me too, when measuring I noticed my totally wrong rubber mounting was deeply cracked so I installed its replacement - all I have to do now is to remember to restock that part again
Nigel Atkins

For Prop, for comparison, The best pic I have of that side of the block is a scan from circa 1992. It is the same.

(it was freshly painted in this pic...and still doesn't look as good)

Dean Smith ('73 RWA)

This thread was discussed between 05/08/2014 and 08/08/2014

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