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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Frogeye beading

I'm currently renovating the Frogeye front and have made new beadings (having first removed the wings) which are now welded on together with the wings i.e. the beadings are in a three layer sandwich with bonnet and wing edges. Quite tricky to do especially as I've had to replace a lot of the rusted edges.

Anyway, I've currently left generous amounts of overhang (with the hidden flange of the T removed) at the ends of the beadings, including on the rear shroud. How much overhang should you have, especially where bonnet meets scuttle and at front end of rear deck (boot lid) where you can see it? I presume you flatten (dress) it, bend it and maybe put a spot of weld on then grind, to finish?


Bill Bretherton

Hi Bill. Miserable weather, isn't it?
Here's what I sent Guy some time ago. I just took off the paint and rust, and it's bonnet, with wing on the right.

Nick and Cherry Scoop

At the front, after shot blasting. Not absolutely clear, but interesting how the bead goes onto the sidelight base.

I think it's generally a case of cutting off flush, then a dab of weld and tidy up, but I expect Guy has done all this already.

Nick and Cherry Scoop

Thanks Nick, very useful pictures. It looks like the rear edge of the bonnet had the beading cut off almost flush (as you say) but it finishes under where the sidelight rubber seal will be at the front as I suspected. I'll await other posts, hopefully including Guy.

Yes, been raining here too, dry at the moment though.
Bill Bretherton

Hi Bill,
Probably doesn't help a lot, but this is my front O/S wing and sidelight position under construction and repair!
I left the wing beading long, and then after welding I dress the ends down, tack/ fill with weld (evidence is that the ends were braised in) and then grind flat to recieve the rubber lamp gasket.


Guy, did you cut the ends flush at the scuttle end (like Nick's looks like) and same at front of rear deck or bend them around the edges then tack and grind back?
Bill Bretherton

I bent them over the edges, and dressed them down. That is how they were done on the original rear cockpit edge so I did the same


Ok, thanks Guy.
Bill Bretherton

Please excuse my ignorance but why not just eliminate it, fill with solder or weld and smooth? I never really liked that look and it seems like a great place for moisture & dirt to accumulate and do their nefarious deeds.
Stan Kowznofski

Well done, Stan. That will open up a healthy discussion.

Authenticity and value are important to lots of people, and both will suffer from that modification. The Sprite was conceived, designed and built as a cheap car for having a bit of fun cheaply, and that's one of the things I celebrate.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Yep, I would agree. If you want a rust free easy and permanant solution, do away with those irritating wing beads. But go further, fit a plastic bonnet. Much cheaper and much lighter. And you can do the same at the back. Complete rear bodywork in plastic is readily available.

Then there are those tiresome dizzy points that keep need adjusting; electronic ignition is so much better. And those dynamos with that silly cable drive for the tachometer. And ....?

Stan, for me it's to keep it original looking as Nick and Guy allude to. I must confess though, I intend to use the later windscreen with the "bar" attachment for the hood rather than the studded screen which mine should be, but that's not as obvious as the beading. Also discs, 1275 engine, alternator, electronic tach and ribcase g/box but they're more easily reversible than body modifications. I think the body should look original.
Bill Bretherton

This thread was discussed between 11/11/2017 and 12/11/2017

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