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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Magic Midget - gone ?

Having got the Sprite to actually run well, it's going so well that I think I need to tighten up the front a bit - maybe new thicker a/r bar and uprated but not lowered front springs - so I went looking for Magic Midgets and found a porn site - have they closed down ?

If so recommendations for uprated front springs - simply put I can hear the wings toucching the tyres at speed when I hit a large dip in the road.

Thanks
Malc Gilliver

Yes I think Magic Midget have stopped trading. I couldn’t find their website a while ago.

I had the same problem as you, wings hitting the tyres, typically when cornering. I fitted 400lb springs, probably about 25 years ago now. I think the springs might have been 1.5” shorter (that’s what I seem to remember anyway!) but car sits at the same height as springs are stiffer - it’s worth double checking though. Also fitted an 11/16” roll bar at the same time. Far better.
Think Peter May sell the springs - but not cheap. Other suppliers might also sell them.

As my Sprite is a Mk2 it has 1/4 elliptic rear springs. Following a couple of runs up Prescott years ago, my axle moved sideways. So made myself a Panhard Rod. Car feels so much more stable with that fitted.
Les Robinson

Hi Les,

Thanks for the info - 400lb, are the standard springs about 270 ?

I have an a/r - the car didn't come with one, but got does it make a difference !! I need to check mine for diameter first.

I have the Peter May rear panhard rod on as I fitted wider tyres on alloys otherwise the wheels touch ! but it does make a huge difference to handling.

I am also about to fit the Mambo Motorsport MGB level arm damper conversion that will give me more negative camber as well, round off with K&N filters and replace the engine driven fan - but that's the lot !

Malc
Malc Gilliver

Yes think standard are 271 lbs
My car didn’t come with an a/r bar but fitted one same time as the springs.
Les Robinson

We found the larger arb (apart from being very worthwhile) fatigued the chassis at the mounts and eventually ripped one out.
Fixable and now reinforced, but sufficient hassle repairing the ripped out bit that we now reinforce first if going to a big bar by fitting a doubler over the bottom of each mounting block as per pic

Paul Walbran

Can't remember exactly what i did to mini to reinforce the rail, but from memory(getting old) I had an angled bracket that went on the flat face then up the side onto a bolthole (bumper bracket-?) then welded in place. Ran the bolts right through the chassis with spacers--there was a bit of bother with the radiator from mem. Used to rip it apart quite regularly prior to the reo. job. Was on a 3/4" bar and 550 springs

willy
William Revit

You guys have got me thinking. On the recent Gurston Down excursion I heard the nsf tyre rubbing on the inner arch. You can see how close it was on this photo.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9bYVkwcgcc5KgJkK8

This is with standard arb and springs. I would prefer not to make the front end over-stiff as I rarely do track days. I already have poly bushes, which make the ride a bit harsher. What spring rate works best for the road, and occasional track use? I also have a panhard rod.
Les Rose

Les (Rose),

Yes, corner and dips are when I get the contact, I also don't want it to be too harsh hence asking for advice.

Paul,

Yes I am aware they rip out, it was one reason I didn't go for the biggest ar, but as I am finally enjoying the car and one of the best UK summers in history, I am planing the very last of the mods and can see that the ar mountings will be on the list - before or after I rip them !

What actually fails - the chassis metal or the thread in the block ?

Willy,

Great minds /fools seldom differ etc - I had looked at making a 90 bracket and using the bumper fixings
Malc Gilliver

Malc, I have an uprated ARB on my 1275 Sprite. It's actually a standard 1500 ARB, effectively the next size up on thec1275 one. The weak point was the underside steel that the mounting blocks are welded on to. The steel distorted and then tore. I replaced it with a thicker guage of plate which extended down the chassis rails to the rear edge of the broad front cross member. I also used a thicker guage to the underside of that cross member.
GuyW

A guy I used to know had a 7/8" ARB on his Austin Sprite courtesy of the PO who had worked at Stothert & Pitt, it ripped out and we reinforced the legs and it didn't do it again. I think the chassis flexed more than the ARB.

I mounted my 9/16" ARB above the chassis rails and extended the rails sideways so the mounts, wider A40 Farina, are near the bends so the ARB is more effective. The standard mounts being a fair bit in from the bends bends as well as twists.
David Billington

Guy,

Thanks, that all makes sense - I look at mine and worry about the sheet metal.

David,

I can see your idea, I thought the chassis rails were too narrow for the a/r bar.

Some pictures would be great - if you have any ?


Thanks

Malc
Malc Gilliver

I know I'm on a good hill climb run when I can smell rubber burning thanks to the tyres rubbing. It was more common with the previous Yokohama tyres, they gripped better than my current Rain Experts.

I definitely need something to control the back axle, I'd prefer a Watts linkage but will probably go for a panhard rod this winter. Les, do you have any photos, drawings or other details of your panhard rod, I'd like to be able to make one but am not sure if my skills are up to it.

I second Malcolm's request for photos of the different anti-roll bar reinforcement arrangements.

Colin
C Mee

Back to the question of springs, another vote for 400 as a good compromise for road and competition, not harsh but a good upgrade.
Paul Walbran

Colin
Here are some pictures of my Panhard rod.

Les




Les Robinson

Both of these pictures turn clockwise 90deg. No idea why they have rotated!




Les Robinson

In fact, looking at the photos, they all need turning clockwise 90deg!!
Les Robinson

Thank you Les, those pictures are really helpful.

Colin
C Mee

...and here is my panhard rod. I think Les R's has slightly better geometry.

I hadn't thought of using a 1500 arb.




Les Rose

Still mulling over roll stiffness. I believe the standard Frogeye front springs are 270lb. The standard 1275 ones are 340lb. But if I use those I think I need to lower them 1/2" because the Frog is lighter at the front. Correct? I have a steel bonnet.
Les Rose

Allan Staniforth - springs are for carrying the weight, anti-roll bars are for controlling roll.

Good book !
Malc Gilliver

This thread was discussed between 08/08/2026 and 14/08/2026

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