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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Oil Cooler pipe removal

Well into my first engine removal ( how anyone does it in under 4 hours beats me! I assume I will get quicker.....) just about ready but I cannot shift the oil cooler pipes

It does not help that they are very large - and say it quietly, I only have an adjustable that will get on them but I assume I turn the nut closest to the block? Any hints on freeing them up - neither will move.

What size are they? I suspect I can borrow a spanner if I need to early tomorrow


Mike Dixon

2 spanners needed
Hold the one closest to the block, turn the one farthest from the block.
They should be flexible lines not hard pipes

Thanks - worked a treat, both removed and engine out

Mike Dixon

Just spotted this thread. Completed my first 1275 Midget engine removal last weekend. How did you get on removing the clutch slave cylinder. Mine did not line up with the 'access' hole in the drivers footwell and had to remove pipes which I hoped to avoid.
Gearbox away for recon. Need to replace the crankshaft spigot bush. Anyone any advice on removal and replacement of said bush?
What was your engine issue Mike?
David Lewis

Usual removal advice it is to fill the bush with grease then put in a suitable rod, 1/2" IIRC, and give it a hard whack with a hammer to force it out with hydraulic pressure. Refitting ideally requires a shouldered rod to bear against the bush end but it needs to be kept aligned to avoid damaging the bush, I can't help much on refitting as I don't recall ever replacing one as I converted to needle roller spigot. Do you have a lathe or access to one.
David Billington

David. I can see what the aim of the 'grease and whack' method is. I will give it a go. Could get messy!!!
I don't have a lathe but know a man that does. However I will research the needle roller option.
David Lewis

The needle roller option is not a straight forward swap for the standard oilite bush in most cases.
David Billington

David L

The clutch slave cylinder was a bit of a fiddle but not a problem to be honest - with the starter motor out I could get at both of the bolts from underneath. I 'notched' the upper mount while it was out so it will slide off/on and just need nipping up in the future. I also fitted a remote clutch bleeding kit at the same time.

I was ready for all sorts of fun and games with the spigot bush but it came out on the end of my finger! But is was in a bit of a state. Nearly as bad as the bush in the clutch arm.

The supplied spigot bush replacement was a roller bearing one which is longer by 2 - 3 mm than the oilite one but I gave it a go and it is fine in that the gearbox went back on OK - I have not used it in anger yet. Note it will go in both ways round but only one is correct - easy enough to check on the input drive.

The engine was out due to dreadful gearbox noise - I have fitted an exchange one - hopefully testing it tomorrow, it worked fine up on axle stands! I also changed the timing cover as the breather on there was quite blocked up.


Mike Dixon

Hi Mike.
Thanks for informative reply to my post. Particularly interested in remote clutch bleeding kit. Did you source it or make it?
I'll speak to MGOC re the spigot bush.
Assume you used an engine crane. I got v lucky and found one on eBay........15 miles from Home!!!! Would be available if anyone needs one.
David Lewis

if you have a look in the Archives you should find details of made up examples of remote bleeders, from Alan Anstead, Guy and others, I can't remember Mike's being mentioned before, but that's only my poor memory.
Nigel Atkins


It was my first go at this and without some local MASC help I think the engine might still be suspended from the hoist I had borrowed!

For the clutch remote I used the rear hose and t piece from the midget rear brakes, a unf bolt, locking nut and 3 copper washers. As Nigel says there are details in the archive.

I got my bearing from the MGOC - I gather it is the only one they supply for the midget.

Mike Dixon

This thread was discussed between 20/05/2019 and 29/05/2019

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