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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Oil line flare broke off...

The flared end of my oil pressure line broke off. I was thinking it looks soldered in. I tried to heat it with a small butane torch and pull the remaining piece of tubing out. It didn't budge.
Any thoughts or solutions?
Thanks, Phil

P Burke

Im assuming thats the gauge end

Can it be cut off flat and then drilled and the tube be put in and resoldered

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

It was soldered but with silver solder. That takes much more head than lead based solder.
SANDY

It's the block end.
Thanks Sandy, could I re-assemble with standard solder, or do I need silver?
P Burke

presumably the heat from the engine resulted in the specification of a higher temp solution by the designers.
David Smith

I'm not sure that lead based solder would withstand the vibration, either.
Dave O'Neill 2

Thanks guys, I'll be hunting for silver solder then...
P Burke

Its the block side...well,

This got a "hole" lot easier

There 2 ways to approach this, the right way and call moss, minimania, 7enterprise, vic bit, sportscar ware house.com ect ect

Or with vise grips in hand a pinch of redmans between your cheek and gum you can do it the hillbilly way....Home depot/lowels is your friend today

They have an entire aeil devoted to plumbing connections....what your looking for is a pipe thread on one end that can tap into the block and a compression fitting on the other end that will take the other end of your brass tube

If you have a good independant auto parts store then they will carry the same stuff but in a higher grade material... it will be known as AN aircraft fittings

You will.need a pipe cutting tap... common and cheap to tap the block and use ptfe paste to coat the threads into the block, and your good to go.

The hardest part is siffting thur all the plumbing connections... its a nightmare and will take an hour at least and only elderly women in there 70s or young kids in there teens work in these places anymore...but they can all read the back of the box, so your pretty much on your own for this ride pack a lunch and a pup tent

Once you find it, it will be a knock to the head moment.

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

This is basically what your looking for to tap into the block

http://m.ebay.com/itm/390383276944?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20140818092515%2526meid%253De61d8f6b1b0c4bce845f9321866288c8%2526pid%253D100286%2526rk%253D13%2526rkt%253D21%2526sd%253D220283411445&_trksid=p2054897.c100286.m3506

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Actually this is almost exactly what your looking for... im fairly certian your brass tube is 1/8 inch but im not certian what thedia size hole is inside the block...Im guessing its between 3/16 and 1/2 inch...

But this has the NPT pipe thread for the block and it has the compression fitting for the tube to the gauge

Granted at almost $2.00 that is expensive for a hillbilly hack...but thats life

Buy 2, there made in china I assume

http://m.ebay.com/itm/331476906002

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

opps... okay the above is reverse...see this plumbing stuff is best dealt with when high on the wacky weed...haha

Should be the reverse so 1/8inch female compression and 3/16 inch male NPT into the block

Measurements are my guesses

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Phil,

These type of fittings are used on other applications - try model steam engineering companies such as for small quants
http://www.ajreeves.com/nuts--nipples-268-c.asp

With the existing you can try to reheat it and pull the remaining tube out - the silver solder used is likely to be at the lower end of the s/solder range approx 600-620 deg C from memory - so easily done with a propane torch - try to get as much heat into it via the end to protect the brass - its about red/cherry heat when the solder softens.

Or try cutting off the tube and drilling it out in a lathe if possible.

To resolder it I'd use 'Easyflow No 2' - more silver and runs/flows well - about 620deg. Its essential you clean up both surfaces and use the correct flux - mix flux with water to form a paste and coat all surfaces upon assembly.Also warm the solder tip in the flame and dip it into the dry flux powder pot so when you apply to the joint additional flux is melted to aid flow of solder.

The solder for small fittings is best obtained as thin wire say 0.5mm ish larger wires are still O.K.
Again heat to cherry red before applying the solder which should instantly run if at correct temp to form a nice radius.
When solder sets and is still hot - dip fitting into cold water to remove the flux - if let to cool it goes rock hard and needs to be scraped off.

This type of soldering is often used on refrigeration system also.

R.
richard boobier

Mmmm

Phil,

If you go with richards approach, and I no doulbt its the correct way to repair... for the love of god, please film this, it has a certian ... how do I say, "lost keyish effect to it"

Oh in black and white, that will just complete the image

Haha

Prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Richard, Thanks, that's exactly the advice I was looking for.
The small refillable piece of junk butane torch wouldn't touch the solder. I suspect having the brass in a metal vise absorbs a lot of the heat. I need a new propane torch anyway, so I'll go that route.

Phil
now if I just remember to put the nut on before soldering the fitting!!
P Burke

Phil,

I would try screwing a longish screw into the pipe remains and then fix that into your vice - pull off with pliers when solder molten - heating the fitting/pipe only - as you note the vice is a massive heat sink.

Its not difficult as Prop believes at all.

Make sure you get the correct flux for the s/solder you obtain as there are different ones for temperature ranges of solder.

R.
richard boobier

Regular solder will be fine if done properly. If the oil was hot enough to melt it then you'd really be in trouble and the gauge would be the least of your worries; 183C
Nick Nakorn

Moss will sell you a brand new one for £6. part no AHA6392.
graeme jackson

Phil,

When you go get your new torch, spend a little extra and get the one that lights when you just squeeze the trigger. Don't mess with the old turn knob type.
I don't say this just for convenience, but because the auto lighting type get a LOT hotter. You can buy the kit with MAPP gas (which is hotter than the propane/butane)
and the torch head will work fine with the cheaper gas as well. I think it was about $20 or $25 with gas last time I bought one.

I had to tighten the frozen u-bolt nuts on the rear axle of my BGT, and my turn-knob torch wouldn't get them anywhere near hot enough to move. My brother-in-law
handed me his push button torch, which I put on my gas bottle, and turned the nuts red hot in short order.

Good luck remembering to put the nut on the tube before you solder!!

Charley
C R Huff

This thread was discussed between 30/05/2015 and 01/06/2015

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