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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Old Spridgbits front tele conversion
I have most of the parts (but no dampers) for an original Spridgebits front telescopic conversion kit. I replaced it with a frontline kit a long time ago. Is it worth anything to anyone or should I add it to my pile of scrap ferrous metal that a man in a white van happily takes away for me. |
Daniel |
Daniel, Can you post some pics, not sure if I've seen that one. |
David Billington |
As attached. There was a similar if not identical kit the USA from a company called Carrera(?).
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Daniel |
IIRC Speedwell Engineering in California used to sell a kit like that. The problem I can see is the lower mount leading to twistng and fatigue of the lower wishbone side, maybe why they no longer sell it. |
David Billington |
Interesting thread, thanks. Is there a telescopic conversion other then the ubiquitous 'Frontline' available? David was it you who came up with the original design? |
Jeremy MkIII |
Jeremy,
I did design the original of what became the 'Frontline' offering. There are other designs but as far as I'm aware mine was the only one to replace the LA damper which was the idea as the recons back in the 1980s were rubbish and didn't address the internal wear problem, not much seems to have changed. The one Daniel has would probably work well if the lower pick-up was changed to something like that on the Frontline unit to take the twisting out of the wishbone side. My lower pin while shorter didn't just fit to the side of the wishbone so I've never seen any cracking problems. I was aware it might be an issue so had the dampers set soft but then the Spax were known for being on the stiff side at higher settings for many applications. |
David Billington |
Thanks David. Hope you copyrighted your design! Does anyone produce your version or have Frontline got the market, albeit a small one, sewn up? |
Jeremy MkIII |
The other disadvantage of this kit is that the up and down movement of the damper is 'controlled' by a single bolt that passes through the inner wing and has to be absolutely tight at all times. The kit was also heavy because the original Armstrong damper was still the top suspension link (valves removed). So shall I add these parts to the pile of other ferrous scrap in my garden? |
Daniel |
Hi David. I’ve an early telescopic damper kit of your design, there’s wear in the pivot for the second or third time. The steel tube seems to wear faster than the oil lite bearings. It’s been a 15 or so years since I last had it in bits, The steel tube is ‘pinched’ by the bolt, so the length is critical? Is there a spec of steel needed? Thanks |
Dan Cusworth |
Dan,
Yes the length is important, I don't recall how Tim Fenna, well the engineering place they used, did the original copies but mine used cups over the main tube to hold an O ring seal and act as a replaceable thrust face. Does yours use the thick walled Oilites. Can you post pics of yours. I had intended to use a case hardened shaft but in 1987 when I designed and built it I didn't know any local supplier so in the end just used some 3/4" stainless steel bar from my local engineering supplier, lasted pretty well having done about 75k miles and rotated 90 degrees once IIRC. Material at the time was predominantly inch which dictated much of the material used and bushes, these days I would build metric and 20mm hardened shaft is readily available. |
David Billington |
The photo is of the remains from last time The tube (.75” OD x .5” ID) The oillite bush is plain. No O rings. I think there may be a thrust washer. I added a grease nipple back in the 90s ![]() |
Dan Cusworth |
Dan, The thick walled Oilite version, IIRC they had no replaceable thrust surfaces they just wore the side of the body bracket. Do you have machining facilities, if so it may be possible to correct that. |
David Billington |
Yes. I’ll take it apart and do something. I’ll get some. .75” bar is bright mild ok? I’ll measure the length needed to compensate for the wear. |
Dan Cusworth |
BMS may be what FL used, if sticking with off the shelf steel bar I would use EN16 or EN24 as it'll have better wear resistance. |
David Billington |
This thread was discussed between 22/07/2024 and 08/08/2024
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