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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Question Re:Front lower fulcrum/cotter pin

Hello guys and gals,

Long story short:

I have discovered that the nut and threaded part of the cotter pin that secures the lower fulcrum pin is missing on one side of my front suspension (presumably knocked off). I gather sometimes it can be difficult to remove the cotter pin.

Due to lack of space below the car to swing a hammer upwards, does anyone here know; if after I disconnect the damper arm, the caliper and TRE, there is enough room around the fulcrum pin mount to swing the hub/kingpin assembly outwards and down through 180 degrees - so it is upside down, which would then allow me room to try and whack the remains of the cotter pin out?

Or should I resign myself to the fact that I will have to strip the wishbone off the car?

TIA for any advice

Jim
J Smith

Yes Jim that proposal should work. I did something similar when I replaced a king pin and had to remove the lower fulcrum pin. To make it a bit easier you could unbolt the upper king pin nut, remove the upper swivel and the hub off the king pin but it may not be necessary.
Bob Beaumont

Thanks for that Bob,

I'll report back after I've had a go in the next couple of days.

jim
J Smith

Beware if you still have a spring fitted. If you remove the trunion from the shock absorber arm you might see the spring make a quick exit stage left.
Keep the spring compressed with a jack under the outer part of the A arm, or better still remove the spring.

You will need to support the outer end of the A arm anyway otherwide all your thumping will be absorbed by the inner wishbone bushes.

Rob
MG Moneypit

Yes here’s a pic to give you an idea of how much space
The pin is very difficult to get out, if you are going to be hammering and using force I would remove the spring for safety and then support the wishbone with something solid.

I couldn’t get either of my cotter pins out and ended up cutting the fulcrum pin either side of the king pin with a cutting disc (off the car)

C MADGE

Mission accomplished!

Thanks for all for the advice.

I found that I didn't need to remove the spring; I supported the spring pan with a jack and I didn't need to hammer too hard to get the cotter out. The cotter was complete (but a bit bent) anyway! Fortunately I could rotate the fulcrum pin and see that the flat on it all lined up correctly and I even then had to file the new cotter in order to get the threads to show through.

It seems that a PO had not been able to hammer the cotter in far enough to get a nut on and left it like that!


J Smith

This thread was discussed between 03/04/2018 and 04/04/2018

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