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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rear crank seals

Hi,y'all staying well I hope

Just wondering if we ever resolved the best sealing device for the rear crank seal, given that I am not in a position of being able to re-engineer the scroll seal set up.

I am going to have my type 9 reconditioned by a guy here in Brumshire and while the power unit is out what do you advise I try?

The Calvert unit seems likely the best bet but will I need to get the engine machined to fit it?

I have totally given up on the Peter May 'device' after using a few seals up over the years.

(This is why I cannot have the scroll reinstated, the bridge unit has vanished in the haze that is my 'garage' or slum...)
Bill sdgpM

Hi Bill, it's good to 'see' you here again!

Have you considered Steve Keil's crank seal (MASCOT, May 2018) He uses a standard face contact seal at the rear of the crank rather than the normal circular lip seal. Apparently the problem with the latter is that the surface that they run on is rarely truely concentric with the crank, so the surface 'wobbles' as the crank spins, quickly stretching the lip of a standard seal. On Steve's system the contact surface is axial to the crank and the seals can better cope with slight fore and aft movement of the crank. At least that is his explanation. He does make the modification needed sound very straightforward and next time I have my engine out I plan to try this.
GuyW

Hi Bill,
when I asked Peter Burgess (IIRC) he said he found Calvert the best but as it involved machining also I didn't bother.
Nigel Atkins

Yes I understood that Peter thought the Calvert one best too Nigel but as you say it is the thought of machining the engine block parts that put me off.

Although I can afford the seal set, not sure I can stretch to the extra machining when I am committed to having the type 9 rebuilt too.

Guy I am not sure if I have the May Mascot, I'd better hunt around for it.

I do recall something about the different method, which is why I asked here.

Still the best Spridget knowledge base around I feel.

Oh yes Guy, I am usually here but I prefer silent running unless I can actually help.

Or ask! :)

This and any other stuff I decide to tackle while the car is off the road is likely to be the last work I attempt from now on, too many aches and pains for it to be fun any more.

I think I am going back to the standard seats too, better shaped for the car than the F or MX5 seats
Bill sdgpM

I find the F seats very comfortable, but the thicker seat back does require better knee and foot flexibility to enable one to get in and out. Like you, I am beginning to suffer from a surfeit of birthdays!
Can you not download the May 2018 Mascot copy from the MASC website?
GuyW

Went and researched Steve's method and it looks feasible although it needs the basic structure to be in place to smooth off.

I'll be missing the bridge scroll section I think, I know that something had to be discarded to fit the rotating seal version to the engine.

(Also he doesn't actually give the name or the bearing type or number either)

It does look pretty good for anyone with an unbuggered about with set up.

I suspect I will be treating myself to the Calvert system and maybe enlisting Peter Burgess for the small modifications.
Bill sdgpM

Bill, I thought in that article Steve invited people to contact him for further details, if you wanted to give it a go. But I hadn't thought that you might not still have the rear retainer for your engine.
GuyW

Bill

Is the MED version worth a look? https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/med-inline-rear-main-seal-kit

Thanks
Mike
M Wood

Yes Mike thanks for that, it is the same as the Calver kit, but a tenner more expensive.

The decision is made and the kit is what I hope to use, decision to be made after the other piece of scrap is deleted from behind the flywheel.

:(
Bill sdgpM

Bill, I am surprised that the Steve Keil system hasn't tempted you at it's estimated cost of just £5.
GuyW

It does sort of tempt me but I am not sure I am up to the modifications with cleaning up the crank.

Early days yet as I have not even begun extracting the power unit to get the box off

I might just try a email for info and advice, I will keep you advised.
Bill sdgpM

This thread was discussed between 23/09/2020 and 25/09/2020

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