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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rear Lever Arm Dampers

What sort of joint is it, between the lever arm and the link arm? I can't prise it apart, and I don't want to go further until I understand what it is.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Nothing special. If it's hard to take out, take the shock off the car to separate them.

anamnesis

Here's a better picture showing the taper. Have you bought new ones? You may have a 'shoulder' issue with some new ones.

anamnesis

Have you got one of these tools?

anamnesis

A belt with two small hammers either side should release the taper.
Oggers

Thank you, anam. I hate tapers. I've ended up taking the whole assembly off, since I don't actually need to split it.
How do you get that chunky fork in between the two parts?

Spot on, Oggers. Bob (Robert) always advocated a snappy whack with a big hammer. It's lovely when it works, as it has for me in about 50% of cases - usually track rod ends.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

I use the ball joint splitter, as above. There should be enough give in the rubber to let you insert the forked part.
Dave O'Neill 2

Thanks all; I will get one.
Finished now. What a rotten job - taking the dampers off and putting them back on again.
But the overhaul - using one of Malcolm's kits - was a pleasure: bench work, sitting comfortably some of the time, and a satisfying result.
I was surprised to see no shims behind the valve spring on one side, and two on the other. Hope I didn't lose them.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Glad the kit worked well for you.

Top tip (a bit late now...) replace the damper securing bolts with socket cap (allen key) screws. It makes them so much easier than hex heads.

Malc.
Malcolm

Top tip #2 - use Silkolene SAE 30 motorcycle fork oil...
Oggers

30 would be for a more uprated feel.

Peter Caldwell of World Wide Auto Parts (USA) who used to post on here and is very well respected for his better than new exchange service on LA dampers cautions about using thick oil, 30w maximum.

"Stick with the 20W oil recommended (AW [ISO] 68 spec). At most use 30W (AW ISO 100). Best are synthetics like [Fuchs] Silkolene or Redline suspension oils. They hold up under heat waaaaay better than standard hydraulic oils.... and these shocks get hot."
Nigel Atkins

Nigel

He makes no such caution at all from your quote. Indeed if they do get hot, then 30 is better than 20 for dissipating/withstanding any heat.

I found a modest improvement in handling with no discernable detriment to ride quality.
Oggers

Oggers,
try reading it again, 30w is the maximum, not the too thick - but 20w (ISO 68) appears to be what he recommends.

And, no not necessarily, it depends on the oil used and other circumstances.

I'm thinking of a standard Sprite suspension not necessarily set up for fast road use, and certainly not a tuffy bike racing for miles across the wildlands to a secret dugout.

To get me yer just gonna 'ave to get a better 'scope. 😉
Nigel Atkins

Nigel

There is no caution against using 30. He does not say anything like "Do not use 30" or "I advise not to use 30". Thus there is no caution against using it.
Oggers

I put STP in my front shocks. And no, they haven't burst the seals. But it is very firm at the front and corners virtually 'flat' at the front at speed. When I took it on a track day with an instructor he was very impressed and wondered what on earth I had done to get it to corner so fast!
GuyW

Oggers,
I apologise, I didn't make myself clear the -
no not necessarily, it depends on the oil used and other circumstances

was in response to your -
Indeed if they do get hot, then 30 is better than 20 for dissipating/withstanding any heat

not me cautioning against the use 30w or suggesting that the quote I put up from Peter Caldwell was cautioning against 30w.

I put 30 was for the more uprated feel not that it was wrong and needed cautioning against.

I didn't intentionally mean to mislead anyone, and believe it or not even you.

I do stand by try reading that post again, 30w is the maximum, not the too thick - but 20w (ISO 68) appears to be what he recommends.

By that I mean, 20w (ISO 68) appears to be what he recommends and 30w is the maximum, not the too thick.

You've said that you've put in 30w with no discernible detriment to ride quality but found a modest improvement in handling which I would have thought given your car's other upgrades would be a bit of a disappointment but is that due to the oil or the dampers or that just going to 30 only give a modest improvement, did you try the Silkolene 20 first?

Sounds like whatever an expert says STP might be the answer.
Nigel Atkins

Up late Nigel?
anamnesis

This thread was discussed between 12/07/2021 and 15/07/2021

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