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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rear suspension - Duck and Spring noise
I did a nice journey with the Midget (1275 from 1972) end of May, and she is resting since, waiting for the rain to stop... During the journey, I noticed that the rear suspension/axle might be noisy under certain conditions...
I have two types of noise :
- "Duck" noise when going up and down of speed bumps (at neither fast or extra care speed)
- Similar noise as if you play with a spring that you can find inside some pen (like holding it with some tension, and make it vibrate) when going over smaller bumps at higher speed...
Do you have some advice of where to start ? I was thinking of disassembling rear dampers, cleaning and changing oil, but wonder if there is anything else faster to check/investigate before going in this task...
(hope my noise description can be understood.... :) )
|I'm giggling at the idea of a quacking sound coming from your suspension :)
Check the obvious first - all nuts and bolts that hold the rear suspensions together, is there anything loose? Mounts front and back, the U bolts, drop links.
Check the condition of the bushes, are they worn / perished? Check the pads between axle and springs.
Check the rebound straps are in good condition.
Check the brake lines and hose and secure and cant flap around.
I had a clunking noise from my rear suspension, which took a while to trace. The bolts holding the damper onto the car needed tightening up.
If the dampers havent been serviced for a while, then thats an area to address too.
|I'm having trouble getting the grin off as well and can't help it- I have to ask if anything's cwacked --
A good look around for worn or loose bits as suggested is the go-
Rear spring shackle bushes could make your duck noise
Also, I nearly went crazy trying to find a clunk in the rear of a MGB once and it ended up being the number plate was loose and clunking up and down on bumps
A good check around for loose bits to start with and try and track down where the noise is coming from would probably be a good idea before pulling things apart--Maybe get a couple of your mates to give the car a good bounce around while you have a listen--?
|The rain or wetness might be the cause - possibly suspension bushes, springs or dampers, does it vary or stop or start with rain or going through deep puddles(?).
I'd start with liberal spraying of GT85 on dampers and springs and their bushes, to see if the sound stops, if it does stop then you could just forget about (subject to if all fixings have been checked for tightness) or you know it's the dampers, springs or their bushes that may need attention.
GT85 PTFE lubricant and moisture dispersant (forget WD40) - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/
|Forgot to add damper link arms and their bushes.|
And spraying GT85 on the spring pads Chris mentioned.
Whilst you're there you might as well check the rebound check straps and their fittings but I doubt they would be the cause of noise.
What might be a cause - exhaust mounting/fittings/rubbers - check all those for tightness and noise.
|Nigel thinks that rain and puddles might be attracting ducks to build a nest in your boot. Any croaking noises as well? Could be frogs. I am sure there's something about checking the coolant for tadpoles in the handbook.|
|I had to dismantle the springs, de-rust every leaf, and reassemble with PTFE lubricant. Terrible creaking stopped. Another squeak now, but a bit less annoying.|
|L B Rose|
|I had a strange noise from my rear suspension and it turned out to be the rebound straps were squeaking when they moved on the bolts took them off and greased them and alls quiet now.|
|Looks like I might be wrong about the rebound straps noise, probably best to use a grease that reacts well with rubber to preserve them as modern made rebound straps are (were?) made of piss-poor rubber..
I went through a ford (river/stream crossing) in a Ford (Capri) that has rear leaf springs and a new noise started straight off so I stopped to check and could not see anything wrong so drove on. Once I had driven for a few miles and things dried out the new noise disappeared never to return so I assumed it was water/debris.
|There is effectively a frog noise ! But I located it: it is happening between the steering wheel and the driver seat, louder when missing a gear or car won't start...
Thanks for the tips, can come from everything then... I wanted to bet my left....hand on damper and was sure you will all confirmed, but apparently not :)
I checked the workshop manual, and I think the explanations are not so clear around how to dissassemble them... Does someone has a procedure ? Changing oil will not hurt them I guess :)
|“...so I assumed it was water/debris.”|
Or maybe a duck?!
|Dave O'Neill 2|
you're looking for possibly unnecessary work, first spray with GT85, a section at a time if you want to pin the noise down, then try more driving to get the whole car in better condition.
If the noise stops then do not worry about it unless it returns.
If you really must mess around with the dampers to start with just top the oil up if required., there will be plenty of time and need to repair and replace noon-service parts later.
You have already diagnosed one of the main issues with the car, the nut behind the steering wheel. ;)
the noise from the Ford fording the ford was nothing like a duck, I can't remember how it sounded but I'd already tested the car's braking coming out of the water and had a quick look underneath and saw nothing so I carried on and the noise went away forever. I never touched any of the rear suspension whilst the car was in my ownership. A bit later it managed the then less well kept roads around Tan Hill with no problems at reasonable (fast)) speeds.
All jokes aside-
It's unusual for the shockers themselves to make a noise(but not impossible I guess), but the hardware holding it/them to the frame could be loose and need tweeking up or the connecting link bushes might be the cause, but I doubt the shocker itself
I'd try and track it down by bouncing the car and listening for the noise before you do anything and try and find exactly what it is
No use overhauling shockers and things if it turns out to be noisy spring leaves or a squeaky bush somewhere---
| ... now you've made me giggle like a schoolboy.|
Hopefully you will avoid a big bill!
I'd better duck...
This reminds me that that are different sounds that cows make according to which language you speak - I.e. 'Moo' is not universal (or universally 'heard' [mimiced])
|The rattling spring noise could be the hand brake mechanism. The clevis pins and holes wear and lead to a rattle. Stick it in gear with hand brake off and give them a shake.|
|When I was more fastidious about these things I made some small leather washers soaked in oil for each of the handbrake clevis pins to stop them rattling. Now that I am old (as of last year) I am too deaf to hear them rattle and cannot be bothered with fixing such things. Like Nigel, I just want to drive it without any problems to worry about. I have put a copy of the drivers handbook on the parcel shelf and so far that seems to be working.|
|The spring noise I just can't get my head around, I've tried taking pens apart but the springs are too small for my clumsy hands to handle.|
Guy, great news that you have a third copy of the good book on your parcel shelf, with the other copies in your boot and by your bedside, no wonder you are so content with life.
I've just remembered - at the NEC in November I was shown a tool that was specifically for greasing between the leaves of springs. The club member brought a few tools to have us guessing their purpose and thought I'd recognize this one as he was thinking of quarter-elliptical springs.
I remember it as being c-clamp shape with pointed ends with holes in for grease to go through and possibly a grease nipple for the gun to attach to. It was for earlier cars I'd guess as he had a Morris Oxford MO.
He also showed a weird three-armed pliers that was for fitting brake shoe springs, wouldn't work on the Spridgets with the springs behind the hubs but looked handy for use on other vehicles.
|Jerking the memory now Nigel|
I can remember years back having a pair of truck leaf spreaders, -They were like a giant pair of multigrips / pliers but with flat tapered ends
It was easy to just squeeze the points in and open the leaves apart about 1/2" and poke some grease in then let them off
|There is a good case for not greasing springs as it attracts and holds road grit which then results in wear. The only situation where this doesn't apply is those cars, usually pre war, that used leather spring gaitors. Though the same can also be achieved by greasing and then wrapping in Denso tape, if its still made.|
|Personally I'd just spray GT85 on and around the bushes and perhaps rebound straps (but only if I was doing other work in the area(s) as I've had a squeak from the rear of the car on the to-do-list for about a year).
However, this duck noise might be serious and require serious and immediate action, the suspension and axle at least need to be removed and inspected on the bench, or it could be metal on the bodywork, best to strip off all the paint for a proper inspection.
Or drive over the humps slower and find roads without "traffic calming", surely these (Lexus) Chelsea tractors are for breaking down these road humps Spridgets don't have a wide enough track to avoid the humps.
Spent some time on the car yesterday, after getting some GT85 ;)
Funny part is that when I move the rear suspension by pushing the car down, I don't hear any noise... Still, I put some GT85 here and there, don't think it can make any harm ?
Also fund that the "U bolts area" looks pretty old, and I could give some spanner to screw more the bolts : I put you a picture to get your feedback :)
|Trying to find some potential noise source, I checked the exhaust. I fund that if the exhaust move from it's support (the last one), it makes a squeezy noise... |
Do you have the same steal/steal interface as me ? What could I do to decrease the noise ?
|To finish :), I played with the front suspension too, which is finally....nosier than the rear ! Would cut my right hand that I don't get any noise when "climbing bumps" with the front suspension...
Anyway, I have the "red" dampers and "yellow bushes" on both sides, and the are kind of noisy, like an old spring loaded mattress. The left one is even making a "Clac" after few degrees of compression, and same at decompression. So by continuously pumping the suspension by hand, you get a strange "Clic,.....Clac,....Clic,....Clac,...."
Any recommendation ? :)
|Cedric the pads below and on top of the rear springs look knackered. They appear to be perished and breaking up?|
What is the condition of the bushes at the rear end of the spring ?
I would be looking to replace them.
|Those pads need to be in good condition and the U bolts around them should be very tight otherwise the steering and handling of the car will be very vague and wooley, with the back axle trying to steer the car as you change speed and go over any bumps in the road. Horrible!|
|For now it's certainly worth checking all nuts, bolts and fixing are tight.
The exhaust mounting is not the standard type which is a mix of angled clamp and rubber bushes off a bracket screwed to the boot floor. Perhaps the other mountings are different too(?), it might be an idea to buy the appropriate kit of fixings if you want to stop all squeaks.
The red front dampers are probably the "uprated" reconditioned ones and the yellow bushes may be fast road MGOC type (I had both on my Midget for a while).
Try squirting the damper where the arm joins with GT85 and brushing with an old toothbrush to wash out crud then soak with a light oil like 3-in-One (20 SAE Motor Oil if you have it) and work it in to see if it quiets the noise, if so perhaps the dampers need the oil topping up.
Everything looks like how you described :)
I had a Xsara (ok, few...) to learn how to drive after my driving license, and it was fitted with the same rear axle as ZX and 306, which was "auto-stirred" thanks to geometry and rubbers : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZN6Xe30Zmw
Does it mean I have the same on the Midget ? :)
Looks like the exhaust line is kind of recent, and all fixing until the manifold looks "homemade/custome" with (still) shiny recent screws. Only this one make noise (for the moment). Will check on the catalogue what is missing/correct.
Regarding dampers, front and rear, I admit I don't really understand which screw does the refill... Anyone got a picture/draft ?
|Messing around with the front Midget LA damper is more of a awkward job than rear.
For a start I'd just clean it as I put (i don't think a toothbrush would damage any gasket or seal there but you would be best to verify anything you read, especially from me.
But - have this from Peter Cadwell who carries more authority and used to sometimes post here and does the only regularly recommended reconditioned (to better than new) LA dampers, in the US of A. -
"On the front is a filler plug that uses a 1/4" Whitworth wrench. It is on the front side of that cover you described. Of course you don't have that size wrench. If you're careful you won't strip the head with a 9/16" . But be gentle. That is the filler hole. Of course you can't see how much to add as you are filling the air reservoir. Unlike a differential or transmission, the oil should NOT be at the level at the threads, but a half inch below, which you can't see. So, just add some, if you must.
On the rear, the same size wrench opens the plug on the side of the shock just below the lid gasket. This is easier to not overfill.
The danger of overfilling is you will cause a future leak by displacing the air space necessary for the expansion of hot oil and force the oil out of the shaft packings.
The only reason you would want to add or top up the oil is if you are certain oil has leaked from the shock. Oil otherwise does not get consumed. Adding oil thusly is only a remedial repair.
|For filling or topping up, use a plastic syringe with a 4" length of windscreen washer plastic pipe fitted in place of the needle. You can also use the syringe to extract most of the old contaminated oil if you undo the larger bolt head and lift out the little the valve / spring assembly.|
|Exhaust bracket - depends on how the other homemade fittings are particularly at the back cross box as to whether fitting the correct, er, fittings will, er, fit, they may give a different angle, lean, line-up.
You might be able to improve on what is already fitted. If the circular clamp is a tight fit then perhaps fittin it so that one of the uprights is inside the hanging bracket, so that clamp arm is sandwiched might be enough to take tension out of the alignment - but it's difficult to tell as the photo does show all of the hanging fixing.
front lever arm (Armstrong) dampers - if it is for the Midget you are keeping then do yourself a big favour and buy a set Peter Cadwell -
If it is for the Midget you are going to sell then have a word with Malcolm Le Chevalier.
|Thanks for your comments !
Regarding dampers, I am surprised that you only recommend to top-up, not replace oil : I would say that oil's "molecule chain" get shorter and shorter when using the car, and the ride might become softer. On the other hand, as far as I remember, you need to change shock absorber on recent cars more due to "internal valve of the piston" getting used, than oil chain getting smaller... Hope my frenglish and logic make sense !
Anyway, with what you are saying, I will leave them for the time being :)
I am still wondering what is this "clic-clac" from the front left damper/arm....
I put a lot of PTFE here and there, let's see during next journey - this weekend latest - if I can see some difference ;)
PS : I have only two cars since beginning of the month :( Might go to three again, as I miss Alfa and want a track-day-car. Is that 4 ?
|Our frog doesn’t make any noise, but our barchetta has had a ping pong ball somewhere behind the seats since new....|
|David k Brenchley|
|Good looking and talkative: you definitely have an Italian car David ;)
Stupid question for the rear suspension....
- How to know if I should change the spring eye bush ? Can it be done with classic tooling (no press) ?
- For the shackle bushes, is it (really) better to get the polyurethane one ?
- Why the shackle bushes are sold by 8 ? Is it for rear and front ? I count only 2 per side, so 4 in total for rear...
- The shackle (31) has no bushes were assemble with the bracket (26) ? Do I need a new shackle ?
All parts one by one are kind of cheap ! I don't want to disassemble or order twice, but don't want to change what is not needed too: still has a cost on long term basis...
|Yes, the shackle does have bushes where it fits into the upper bracket. That’s why there are 8. |
The diagram doesn’t show the upper bushes.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|Make sense Dave, thanks !|
- Is there any benefit for going Polyurethane ? Ageing ? Performance ?
- Would you replace only bushes, or also shackle/eye bush/washers/bolts/U rig/....?
I know Nigel will tell me to change washers and bolts :)
I was going to put a long explanation of why I put to top the oil up rather than aa full change of oil but I will boil it down. It is reasonably quick and easy to just try a top up to see if it works leaving you more driving time over removing both front dampers to do a minimum of a clean and oil change but would possibly lead on to a full refurbishment or replacement which would also possibly lead you on to further work in the area on on the front suspension.
Get the whole car running well for a reasonable period before concentrating on specific items, systems or areas. You have not had the car long enough to know overall what might need doing to it, or leaving alone. Most issues will be covered by regular use, servicing, maintenance and repairs. If you strip the whole car down every time you need to change a bulb you will never get to the proper period of use you and the car need. As you know systems are only fully tested over repeated cycles of use in all usual operating conditions and the extremes.
|I am forcing myself to follow greybeard book, but some things are pulling my head...|
You are not impressed by the picture above, posted 18 June 2019 at 09:00:33 UK time ?
|One reason for using poly bushes is the poor quality of modern rubber parts, I suppose.
You probably wouldn't need to replace the shackles, unless they are badly corroded. You will only really know after dismantling. The same goes for U-bolts - see what they are like when you remove them.
That doesn't really help when ordering parts, I know, but I suppose you could order everything and return what you don't use, if you are buying them online, as you have 14 days to change your mind.
The front eye bush isn't that easy to replace, although you could maybe use a long bolt to pull it out into a suitably sized socket or tube.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
you posted whilst I had to go away from my previous post.
There's an example of an escalating job, cracked spring pads to full suspension rebushing. The pads do not look good but not necessarily requiring priority attention. Perhaps they can wait to later(?).
Like oil, better bushes will perform and age better but be careful about the types and descriptions for the quality, a good rubber bush (if they exist) will be better than a low quality polyurethane - there are loads of threads and posts giving details and opinions.
And yes generally I would change washers and bolts but again be careful about the quality of some new nuts, bolts, setscrews and fixings (particularly stainless steel ones I have found).
Whilst I remember it Cedric, and I am one of the last people who should give advice on spelling, and I am not criticizing you just trying to help - found has an 'o' in it, you usually miss the 'o' out.
|ETA: photo, edges look well cracked but after that the pads may be doing their job, you would need to compare with the drive of another Midget with new pads, or a Midget owner drive your car, to see how much it effects or matters.|
did you take the car out over the weekend and if so did spraying GT85 all around make any difference to the sounds?
|I ordered new bushes ! From autobush !|
Before ordering all the other parts, I would like to disassemble the 2 leaf springs and check how bad (or not) they really are.
Stupid question : can I disassemble the spring leafs one by one (read a lot on the archives for the procedure), and then leave the car on the 2 jacks (which will be in front of the front leaf spring support) ? I don't need a jack under the axle/diff ?
|I was also wondering.... :)|
- What do you do of the different "metal plates" you disassemble when they have some "surface rust" on them ?
It is kind of painful to sand and paint as I sand by hand...Even if I guess it is the most efficient solution, is their any alternative ?
I have read that some people "spray product" everywhere under their car once a year....
Small wonder :
- Can my "spring" noise could be....a broken leaf ?
Again, GF out tonight, so I will slide under my mistress.... :)
Yes, I think it did improve for the front. The noise is definitively less loud....but still present.
For the "spring" noise, no difference... It is a really annoying noise that I get at every small bump/road coupling, coming from somewhere right side.
I plan to do my first ever "Classic Rally" in 10 days, so I want to hear only (ok, mainly) the engine and the voice of my co-pilot ;)
if you are removing a spring you will need the car and the axle supported by stands, not jacks as they can lose pressure and drop right down they are for lifting only not for supporting the what is lifted. The rear axle is connected to the propshaft so needs support.
But before doing that, double-check all nuts, bolts and fittings are tight as previously listed at the start of the thread.
Yes it could be a cracked, or broken, spring leaf but if it was bad I would have thought it might be noticeable in how the car sits at that corner or you might even see it on the leaf or it might make a noise if you put your weight on and bounce that corner.
From the photo only your rear spring does not look bad. Personally I would not be takinging it apart until I had ruled out all other possibilities. If you are going to replace all the rear spring bushes you could inspect the springs then and swap the springs other sides with each other and see if the noise also moves side.
Do bear in mind noises can be very hard to track down and what sounds like it originates from the nearside rear could turn out to be at the offside front. These cars tend to have a cacophony of noises so you need to eliminate as many as you can to track one specific noise.
The old boys used to put the old engine oil on the underside of the car, very messy.
If the front damper(s) is/are still noisy then top up the damper oil for now and see how that goes. Again check all nuts, bolts and fixings ate tight at the front too and that it is not a bush at the front making the noise. Do not replace anti-roll bar links unless you really have to as modern made ones are crap (I made that mistake).
If by rally you mean run, perhaps from instructions, then do bear in mind some can turn into precessions with shiny and/or poorly maintained and/or rarely driven classics or the drivers, taking it all at a very slow pace which is fine but you are allowed to go at your own (legal) pace and overtake them if required/wanted.
Remember if the navigator is your partner then they are always right (even when wrong) and you are never lost if you make it to the finish only detoured so do not argue but laugh and enjoy.
Thanks for the advices. I think if we do it until the end, it will already by a success ! If no, then we will just struggle to find some free space in a pub and have lunch ! Hopefully outside enjoying no heat wave here :)
Regarding your other comments, I think you are right, and Chris almost spotted what I think is my "spring noise" : I have no felt on both extremity of my two handbrake link rods...
For the bushes, I will have to change them at one point anyway :) As I couldn't unscrew the mountings of the spring leaf, this evening turned into a WD40 operation, and closer inspection of the suspension.
|If you dismantle the springs then check for the interleaf layer. IIRC the standard OE 1/2 elliptic springs had a plastic strip between each leaf which reduced friction, not all aftermarket springs have the plastic strip but I expect you can get something that would do the job.|
|Cedric its a fairly big job to change the bushes on the rear and can throw up a few problems like seized nuts and bolts so allow double the time you think you need and then some more.
Spray penetrating oil on all the fasteners a day before to allow it to soak in.
As Nigel says use proper stands and never rely on a hydraulic jack. Once you have the car on stands give it a good push side to side, front to back to make sure it is secure and isnt going to fall on you.
If your check straps are in good condition they will hold the axle once the springs are removed. Ideally though the axle should be support by axle stands too.
Good luck, or should that be Bon Chance.
|As David says, I think the original springs had a plastic strip between the steel spring leaves and the modern replacements do not. However, if you dismantle the springs you could try adding igus low-friction tape between the leaves, as described in this article:|
forget WD40 as a good releasing agent, use something like PlusGas and leave to soak at least overnight.
I am not sure the noise you described would be from missing felt washers on your handbrake link rods but I could well be wrong and I do not really follow your description of the pen spring.
For handbrake rattle you have no doubt already greased the two nipples on the cable as part of your servicing so carry this on with some oil on the clevis pins even if the felt washers have gone. If all the clevis pins are worn replacing them can make a surprising difference to the handbrake feel.
I had a quick look through that Porter book and I could not find anything about tearing the rear springs apart, which page is that on.
Good luck with your rally enjoy it, always find a good country pub and get some real ale and locally made cheese, that should always be included in a good rally at some point, at the end at least, if not put it in yourself.
Just changed one side ! Took me 2 hours and a half :) Still a rookie....
Concerning the U-bolt nuts, it looks like I can screw them forever, and compress the bushes (polyurethane from Autobush) for ever...
=> How does it look like to you....?
|Yes, it’s easy to overtighten them. |
They don’t look bad. You get a ‘feel’ for how tight they should be - just enough that everything is held place.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|Ok, thanks Dave :) And others for helpful comments and advises :) I did the other side in the same way ;)|
Have new rear bushes, I am putting felt on the rod's handbrake (on going), then I can check if the noise left (and handling improved :p)
Not so hard job, not so easy too... Was perfect for a Sunday afternoon :)
|You will finally be able to judge how good I am at describing noise : i fund the motivation to make a video where you can hear the "duck noise"|
It is at circa 4, 9 and 11sec. Sorry for the view, could have been nicer....
|Wot noise, I was totally distracted by the view!
Being serious, unfortunately, I do think I've heard that noise before but can't remember what it might be but other more knowledgeable people will recognise it otherwise I would not know of it.
My wife might have recognised it as she has better recollection of classic car noises than me, but she's already been snoring for quite a while.
This may keep me up all night and I miss my early rise for Silverstone later today. At least one Fezza F40 was seen, from the brewery, on its way there.
|I couldn't think of anything that would cause that noise other than a turkey or similar fowl loose in the car. |
Have you checked the prop shaft for worn UJs, I wonder if they might move during changes in load or bumps and then settle down again. Should be easy to check if you can grab the prop shaft and twist either way and pull up/down, there shouldn't be any play, if there is you need to replace the UJs.
|If you're sure it's in the rear, could it be a Loose rear bumper bar---?|
Have you had someone go with you to try and pinpoint an area it's coming from
A good trick is to have your passenger recording on their camera or phone and moving around to locate a more defined area
|My wife has let me down she doesn't know.
I think there might be two noises or a pre-noise to the duck. To me it sounds like something loose then vibrating.
As I have found before, a cacophony of noises can be very distracting in locating the main noise, you need to eliminate other noises to locate the one you are after.
Take everything you can out of the car, make sure the boot is entirely empty and nothing is hidden down the sides inside the rear wing cavities.
It seems like it might be from vibrations from going along the road, that is I doubt you would get the noise from having the car static and revving the engine to get the vibrations but I could be wrong.
Suggestions like things like number plate fixings and bumper bars loose may well be it (not necessarily exactly those, but it might be, but things similar).
If nothing else it's a good exercise to go round checking everything is secure and not worn or missing.
Good luck, keep it away from hunting season.
|Have you checked the horn brackets are securely tightened behind the grille?|
|Possibly dry boot(trunk) rubber seal or door seal|
Lube the catches and spray some silicone lube on the rubbers
|Good one Willy, I was reminded of this as I drove my Midget yesterday - or same for driver's and passenger's door locks and catches and rubbers and even hinges.
I'd now not go for silicone spray buth silicone oil as you can apply it to the rubber via a cloth or small cube of sponge and not risk getting any spray on the paintwork.
I've not used it but some recommend this - Gummi Pflege Rubber Care Stick 100ml - Rubber Treatment
Although, exhaust fixings or suspension (road spring or bushing) keep coming back in my mind.
|It's slightly off topic Nigel, but I've used the Gummi Pflege treatment. Our previous modern was a Focus Cabriolet which had leaky seals on the folding hardtop and that stuff fixed it.|
It's not cheap if I remember rightly, and I can't be bothered to look it up, but it seems to be effective.
|Caught me out not giving enough info there Nigel, --i usually spray a piece of cloth with the spray pack and then wipe it on the rubbers|
|It sounds like an un(der) damped wheel causing something else to vibrate.|
Thanks for all your idea ! Definitely will help for the next sound I will have to find :)
This one was definitely the exhaust bracket I posted a picture of on 18 June 2019 at 09:05:03.
After showing the car to Gary last Wednesday, he asked me if it was this or not. To give it a go, I removed it and drive without it for couple of miles....in silence ! Or almost, because my front left damper is still as noisy as a cottage door, despite spraying GT85 on it...
Need to sort out my exhaust fixations now !
|Mr Hamon, as you knew I would, and I said I would I remind you of my post of 18 June 2019 at 13:47:13 -
“The exhaust mounting is not the standard type which is a mix of angled clamp and rubber bushes off a bracket screwed to the boot floor. Perhaps the other mountings are different too(?), it might be an idea to buy the appropriate kit of fixings if you want to stop all squeaks.”
If your exhaust system is standard and correct to your year of car then you could either buy a full kit or just the correct parts you need.
And if you need to replace your dampers – I will remind you of my post of 18 June 2019 at 15:55:49 –
“ …. do yourself a big favour and buy a set Peter Cadwell –“
Saved you looking back in this thread for information and advice already given – cheval led to good quality wine, consider drinking. 😊
|Shame there is no one in the UK offering a similar damper rebuild service to Peter Caldwell.|
I haven't looked into the shipping cost of sending dampers back and forth across the pond but its probably prohibitively expensive?
you may already know and seen this but in case not and for others, there is a garage in the UK that does similar but not the same (I think, but don't know) refurbs. DaveO and others put it up (might be recent thread in here or A or B sections) Steveton? Garage.
|72 posts about a slight squeak noise! |
People cannot have much to do!
|I did change all the rear bushes ! That was hard (and good) time for me :P|
It is hard for me to know what is normal and what is not on the car, the difference between "normal wear" and "too much worn", etc. It was why I enjoy asking your opinion first before disassembling half of the car...and create a new problem instead of solving the intended one :)
|Guy, tetchy or joking?|
The video wasn't about a squeak, try to keep up. :)
|Nigel, no I haven't been reading all of the long and repetitive messages on this thread. I was just commenting on the extreme length of the thread, considering the original enquiry was about a pretty insignificant little noise. I thought you at least would favour a 'just get on and drive it' attitude!|
|Tetchy it is then, it'll pass. :)|
Yeah the point is to get the car used more and less time as a roadside repair warrior. In this thread a few topics have been covered and a few answers found.
How do you know all the long messages are repetitive if you've not read them. Give us a cut off figure for each subject thread length and I'll personally stick to it and give extremely brief answers, keeping them non-repetitive will be the hard bit. :)
This thread was discussed between 14/06/2019 and 31/07/2019
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