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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Refitting Semi Elliptic Springs

I'm sure there must be a trick to this or at least a preferred way.

Removed spring to replace bushes and now looking at refitting.

If I fit the front end first, the rear link connects ok but leans forward. If I then load it I can't see that is going to be encouraged to lean back very easily.

If I fit the read end first with the correct direction of tilt (ie backwards) on the link, the front end is short of its correct position and I will have to start loading the spring and try to move the front end forward to pick up the bolt holes. As there is a lip it has to ride over, I can't see that happening easily.

I'll struggle one way or another and get there in the end but suggestions based on experience would be appreciated.

There is a 30 min youtube video on just this job. Great, except he leaves the links tilted forward and does all the bolts up with the suspension hanging. The two most important issues ignored!

Graeme Williams

The rear link needs to lean backwards. ie the spring eye needs to be behind the eye in the bracket which is bolted to the floor. The usual problem is that the link sits the wrong way in which case as the suspension is loaded the spring eye goes up in front of the bracket and the spring locks up.

To avoid this use a pry-bar between the shackle bushes to lever the link rearwards as you simultaneously lower the car onto its suspension. Once it has settled thus, it will remain in the correct position.
GuyW

Definitely front first as Guy says, get a big f off bar in the rear shackles and manhandle it into position.

You might be able to lower it down so it's thinking of going either way, then secure it and 'overcentre' the shackle to the right way round. Once it's down, the check straps stop the extension flipping it back.

I've also had some success with bolting it all together then pulling the rear mount onto the car with long bolts.





































Rob Armstrong

Yes, Rob has the right way of doing it. Use the weight of the car by beginning to lower it onto the suspension. As it compresses, the shackle will reach a point where it is just beginning to tuck up forwards of the floor bracket. At this point insert a bar of some sort and lever the shackle rear wards and then continue lowering and it will get to a point where it will suddenly flip over the right way.
GuyW

Thank you gentlemen. I shall proceed tomorrow with brute force but without the ignorance! I was surprised how far forward the shackle sat - just hope I can swing it back. but it is the same spring I removed and it sat correctly before.
Graeme Williams

Graeme, the spring curls upwards as the weight is taken off it, bringing the rear shackle eye forwards. The trick is to get the spring to flatten with some of the car weight on it, which will extend it rearwards. This will make it easier to lever the shackle over to point rearwards. But if you get too much weight on the spring then as you lever the shackle over with your pry-bar you will then be working against the weight of the car as the shackle goes past the vertical orientation. Its a fine point of balance between the two.

It's easiest done with a hydraulic jack under the centre of the spring pad, where you can increase or decrease the lift by small degrees, working on one spring at a time.
GuyW

Job went very easily. I guess because the springs were not new they had a "natural" postion and i was surprised how they just turned the shackle without needing to apply any pursuation. It's good (but unusual) for a job to work out easier than expected.

By the way, for the record, with the right hand shackle fitted with the nuts on the outside, the tank def stops its removal!
Graeme Williams

This thread was discussed between 22/11/2019 and 25/11/2019

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