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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - rust on wheels.... grrr

I've had my wheels shot blasted, and then primed and resprayed them myself using the Moss kit (plus a second can of silver paint to try and make sure).

I've also done the black detailing with the mask (which has turned out ok). As I thought they were all ok and finished I've also got new tyres on all five.

However, having gone away for a couple of days I've come back to find that I already have some rust showing through in the base of the deep seam on the exterior side (the circle near the outer edge).

Any thoughts on how to tackle this? I have a little silver left so I'm tempted to sand off the obvious rust, mask off the central section and the tyre and then go over it with another coat of silver - but I suspect I'd end up sealing in some rust that is then just going to bubble up in 6 months or so.

What would you do here?

(Please dont advise getting them blasted again - I think I'd cry)
Thomas Whipp

You need to treat the rust with something like Fertan - other rust converters are available - before painting.

http://www.fertan.co.uk/Item-Fertan%20rust%20converter.htm
Dave O'Neill2

Someone suggested on another recent post on wheels to fill the inner seam with a metal filler before painting... I plan on running a bead of weatherproof silcone around the seam on the inside of the wheel, that at least stops rust from getting into the join from the inside, which might help.

C L Carter

Do not attempt to seal it. The chances of a good seal are low, and when moisture gets under the seal it is trapped and makes things worse. Do your best with the rust converter and paint. Then apply something like thinned Waxoyl (both sides), which will seep into the joint.
We have something called Fluid Film, which is lanolin based, used in nasty environments like marine use, or road salt trucks, and manure spreaders, since WWII - ought to be available there. Farm equipment dealers and industrial supply usually carry it here; it is the preferred lube for wire rope. If you can, pour a bit in the joint with the wheel laid flat and let it sit for a couple of days, then remove excess. The stuff that seeps in will last years, but not a bad idea to redo periodically.

FRM
FR Millmore

I sealed mine with metal based filler. Lasted well for at least 15 years. Whichever way you choose the important bit is the preparation.
Guy

Best to be careful with silicone. Often uses acetic acid as a solvent. This is why it smells of vinegar. Acetic acid is very good at accelerating rust. Use a polyurethane based sealer if you need to use one.
Tim
T Dafforn

This thread was discussed between 27/04/2012 and 30/04/2012

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