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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Speed Bleeders

There was a recent thread on clutch bleeding I think, which mentioned these.
Either made by Goodridge or Russell.
Demon Tweeks sell the former, Amazon the latter both want about £9-10 per valve which seems a bit steep for a Lancastrian. Anyone know where to buy them cheaper?
Thanks.

Jeremy MkIII

They are made in the USA. They are also come either plated steel or stainless steel, the latter being more expensive.
Daniel

Don't know if Russell and Goodridge make them or sell them under license, but here is a link to, I think, the original Speed Bleeder:
http://speedbleeder.com/

Prices seem about the same wherever you get them.
Jack Orkin

Jeremy,
you can bleed the brakes by yourself with just a jar, couple of different methods that easily work rather than introduce another step to go wrong, one way check valves can ply up or pack in.


. . . and you could get the jar and tubing for free, yes free! by recycling, at least from the jar! Free, there three frees for thee and not a nay in sight - oh bugger, well not til then.
Nigel Atkins

Thanks all,

Nigel it's needed for the clutch bleeding as it won't bleed properly despite me installing a Lawrence/Guy remote bleeder in the engine compartment.
I want to sit and pump the pedal while it bleeds into the master cylinder to see if that makes matters better.
There's a relatively hard pedal but obviously still some air in there.
Jeremy MkIII

Fair enough Jeremy, let us know how you get on with please.

Cheers.
Nigel Atkins

Have you ensured the slave cylinder piston is held fully back while you bleed it? The clutch can be a PITA otherwise.

Rob
MG Moneypit

Nigel
I have the Goodridge speed bleeders fitted to rear brake cylinders on one of my Frogeyes and will fit them to the other as and when. Recommended.
I got mine from Demon Tweeks.
Frogeye thread 3/8UNF x 24.
Also put one on the remote clutch bleed again 3/8UNF x 24.
Also on my daily driver but that is Metric thread.
They are not a new invention by any means.
Alan
Alan Anstead

Alan,
thanks for the info, if you've found them reliable that's a very good recommendation.

Bit late for me now as I've changed all four (well 6), even had to buy a 7mm combination spanner as I didn't have one for the rear, aptly named, bleeders.

I was looking for you Saturday afternoon at the NEC as I wanted to borrow something off Gary's car to get me home as I'd been an idiot again in a totally ironic (and moronic) way. But that's all another story.
Nigel Atkins

Bought one from JJC Race & Rally.
Rob I hope so. What's the best way to ensure it's fully depressed?
Jeremy MkIII

stuff a suitable sized socket in the end, push right home, hold in place with double elastic bands or gaffer tape.
David Smith

Jeremy, I used a wide throat welding clamp to push it right back and keep it there.

Rob
MG Moneypit

Thanks David and Rob, I've tried cable ties but they didn't hold up so will break out a G clamp!
Jeremy MkIII

I use tyraps andJeremy: be aware where the air is trapped in the slave. It sits in the front left corner of the slave so lift the right wheel while you bleed the slave
Flip Brühl

That's a great tip Flip, thank you and will jack up the rear - is the right rear wheel for a RHD car?
Jeremy MkIII

Thinking on - are the set ups the same for both RHD and LHD or did BMC just lengthen the pipework for LHD export cars?

[Horler ordered for Christmas :)]
Jeremy MkIII

right front see photo

Flip Brühl

Cheers Flip, don't where I got the idea of a rear wheel, I must have misread your original thread.
Jeremy MkIII

This thread was discussed between 10/12/2017 and 16/12/2017

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