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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Starter motor

My starter appears to be dead (died whilst trying to start after fitting a new fuel pump, see other thread). I've tested the electrical circuits, and all seems good.
The options are to repair the existing one, replace with a new original-style inertia unit, or upgrade to a high-torque gear-reduction unit. I'm leaning towards the latter however I'm reading lots of contradicting information, so hopefully someone has experience fitting one of these to a 1500 Midget.
British Starters (http://www.britishstarters.com/MG.html) in the USA seem to be better priced and recommended however the suggested model is recommended for all Midgets whereas Powerlite and Moss have different models for the 1500 and 1275 (although Moss suggest the same inertia-style for both models?). Also, I read a review that stated that the high-torque starter can't be fitted with the mechanical fuel pump (they need to occupy the same space). Can anyone confirm this?
Steve
S Travis

Sure about the solenoid Steve? What did you test electrically?
Greybeard

Is the 1500 fuel pump not in the same area as the starter?

Any chance you could have dislodged something?
Dave O'Neill 2

I tested electric circuit by first checking battery across terminals, then between positive terminal and starter, which dropped to zero when key turned to start. Also checked for voltage drop.
And, ran a jumper lead from starter terminal to positive battery terminal.
S Travis

Are you sure the starter and engine are both earthing properly?
Dave O'Neill 2

on mine there's a flat spot on the starter motor - if it happens to stop there the motor just won't turn. You can turn the motor manually (there's a squared section of the main drive sticking out which a spanner fits onto) - just needs a quarter turn, then works fine. It's worth a try - might not be your problem but certainly is on my 1500.
t Kent

Ive got a hi torque starter from british starters for the 1275

I love it, its great... no issues

For the 1500... ive heard that also, but I dont know much about it or how to counter it


Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I read the same about a conflict between the HiTq motor and the Triumph fuel pump but I have no direct experience of it.

Did you try t Kent's suggestion of turning the starter a little with a spanner?

The original inertial starter is perfectly fine if it's in decent condition. And it's easy to rebuild as long as the windings are not damaged. Even if they are a rebuilt used M35J motor shouldn't be expensive.

Have a look at Flip's thread in this neighbourhood, with the repair kit listed. These units are usually reliable, but they get tired with age. (Don't we all)!

The only reason I would consider a HiTq unit personally is if the engine were seriously modified with very high CR.
Greybeard

The inertia motor engages from the back of the flywheel and the teeth on the flywheel are chamfered, as are the teeth on the motor. The high torque motor is a pre-engage type which engages from the front of the flywheel and although it has chamfered teeth, the flywheel does not have a chamfer on the teeth there as it was originally designed to work from The other side, which will almost certainly eventually create wear problems.
I'll stick with the inertia type.
Bernie Higginson

I've never felt the need for a high torque, even with a CR of 12:1
Dave O'Neill 2

Talking about starter motors; with the engine out I tried fitting the motor since I had repainted it. I noticed that the cross head screw in the side was fouling the sump lip, preventing the motor sitting flush on the bellhousing, something that isn’t obvious when fitting with the engine in the car. I had replaced a worn starter ring previously. It was the correct motor, I filed the screw down, was this a design fault?
L Langley

It's not something I've ever noticed.
Dave O'Neill 2

This thread was discussed between 22/11/2015 and 24/11/2015

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