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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Starting newly rebuilt 1098 engine

I am almost ready to start my newly rebuild 1098 engine. Rebore, pistons, reground cam and crank, new bearings all round etc. I have used cam lube liberally during rebuild. Are there other tips or advice anyone can offer to prevent disaster!
Thanks Andy.
A Potter

prime the oil pump via the external pipe union...
remove spark plugs and turn engine on starter until oil pressure shows on gauge.
David Smith

As you no doubt have done already, turn the engine over by hand for a couple of revolutions to check all is normal right through the cycle.

Remove & fill the oil filter bowl with oil if you haven't already done so.

Freshly prime the oil pump by removing the connection at the rear of the block, filling the diagonal oil gallery which runs up from the pump with oil then turn the engine backwards by hand for a couple of revolutions (this could be combined with the first step above)

Then one all is back together and ready crank the engine on the starter with the plugs removed until there is oil pressure. I oprefer to continue to crank once oil pressure is up for half a minute or so to make sure any areas not fed directly with oil (lower bores, rocker tips etc) have had oil reach them.
Paul Walbran

David

Snap! both posting at the same time :-)
Paul Walbran

David, Paul
thanks. Do you mean the pipe that runs to the oil filter housing? I have put oil in the filter already so that should be good and the engine is nice and smoth when turned by hand. However now the engine is back in the car with radiator fitted it seems a bit of a challege to turn via crankshaft pulley.
A Potter

When it does fire up, with a new (reground) camshaft you need to immediately run it at min. 2000 rpm for 20 minutes to bed the followers and cam lobes in. Seems brutal at the time, but that is the recommendation!
Guy

Yes, the pipe from the back of the block to the oil filter housing.

That crank nut access certainly is a hassle. Easy way to turn the engine backwards is to put the car in gear and push it back. It's easy to do with the plugs out and you only need a metre or so room as you can have a couple of bites at it if need be.

Being high up on the back of the cam, the A series oil pump has quite a bit of lift and can be challenged if it is not freshly primed. This applies even more so to the original 948/1098 oil pump as it was smaller capacity, some on the market are still to this spec. So even though it's a hassle removing that oil pipe, I would always do it.

Guy - good point on the camshaft, overlooked that. Another reason to have instant oil pressure!
Paul Walbran

Thanks to you all for advice, will have to hold my nerve and run at 2000rpm for 20 minutes :)
A Potter

Take care that the ignition is set correct, so it will start immediately. If you don't have any tools for that, put a piece of cigarette paper between the points, set the crank pulley at the desired position (8 degrees BTDC orso) and while gently pulling the paper turn the ignition until it just comes loose and bob's yer uncle.
Alex G Matla

Well, finally got the car to start. However it will only run for a few seconds with lots of throttle blipping. I am a bit nervous about revving the rebuilt engine constantly to keep it running. I have fitted Accuspark electronic ignition so I can't set static timing accurately according to manufacturers instructions, they say get the car running then turn distributor until car runs smoothly befrore setting with strobe light. This seems a bit hit and miss to me. I have good oil pressure 60psi once running and a sticky starter motor from constant cranking. Anyone got any suggestions. Thanks in advance Andy.
A Potter

This thread was discussed between 20/03/2012 and 31/03/2012

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