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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Stopping corrosion in alloy

I have some Minilite type wheels that are showing signs of corrosion on the inside. what is the best way to stop that corrosion? I presume that the usual rust remedies will not work as they are aimed at ferrous metals.
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Phosphoric acid converts the corrosion so the likes of jenolite work. I think phosphoric acid is also the main ingredient in some alloy wheel cleaners, I got a gallon some years ago and used it to clean the alloy on my sprite, used jenolite before that.
David Billington

Do you mean inside the tyre, or the backside of the wheel?

Mazda have some bare aluminum wheels; I've got several versions on various cars. I've been cleaning them with WD40 as I do most things. About once a year and no corrosion.

For inside, I use something called "NoRimRust" when I mount tyres. It is sold for big trucks, and is a black vegetable soap based rubber lubricant and anti-corrosion compound. I bought a big tub when I had the truck years ago and am still using it. Just clean and rub a thin film all over the inside of the wheel. No corrosion and tyres always mount and seat easily, and come off easily. Got really tired of beating on big truck wheels for days and then cutting the thing apart, and replacing rusted wheels.

Cast aluminum is porous, and so is the protective oxide that forms on any aluminum (and most other metals). What you need to do is seal this porosity, so that moisture cannot reach the base metal.

FRM
FR Millmore

Clear lacquer - sprayed on.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

I mean the rear of the wheel (not inside). I think the corrosion starts with hot dust from the disk brakes that eat through the existing clear lacquer finish and then water gets in and a white powder starts to appear on the surface. I can paint/lacquer but always feel it is better to neutralise corrosion rather than just cover it up.
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Sandblast and paint or powdercoat.
Or sand and paint.
Which ever budget dictates
Onno K

Chris-
What you describe is exactly what happens, and why I think it best to not have paint on them at all. Very high quality epoxies work (ie BMW OE stuff), but they are pricey and difficult to get right, and still subject to damage, especially on tyre changing machines. The WD40 treatment avoids all this, and if you redo it once a year solves the problem.

I clean nasty wheels by soaking with WD40 for a few days and then using 3M red pads wet with WD40 either by hand or as cut discs on a portable drill motor.

WD40 treatment also works on damaged paint/coatings by protecting the bare spots.

I am about to try FluidFilm lanolin based treatments, as it is said to penetrate micropores and stay there very well, might be even better. It is commonly used for marine/chemical/salt exposures and as an industrial lubricant.
http://www.fluid-film.com/products/

FRM
FR Millmore

This thread was discussed on 07/05/2012

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