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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Things to Consider Before Putting the Engine In

I am starting to think about when and how I get the lump back into my car.

Assume I am starting from a relatively blank sheet of paper, are there any jobs that I really need to do before the engine and box goes in? i.e. they become a major pain in the bottom to do afterwards.

I am talking any wiring, plumbing, fluids etc? Absolutely anything.

One question that immediately springs to mind is should I fill the gearbox oil before putting the gearbox in, or is it relatively easy to do once it is in place?

Cheers,
Malcolm
M Le Chevalier

On many US cars, the bonnet release cable. Not sure if the home market cars are the same.
Trevor Jessie

It's a 1500 for the avoidance of doubt by the way!

Malc.
M Le Chevalier

Fixed brake and fuel lines
Guy W

The main front to rear fuel line normally goes under the floor, but the brake pipe runs down the tunnel and is difficult to fit afterwards.
Dave O'Neill2

I plan to run the brake and fuel lines under the car. I guess the bit where it comes through the transmission tunnel gets tricky though? Right?
M Le Chevalier

Give the engine bay a good clean with degreaser and then hot water and detergent and deal with any bits of rust. It makes puting it back more pleasant.
Check Gearbox and engine mountings.
Bob Beaumont

Cross posting there Dave, the brake line on mine ran along the passenger side "channel" under the floor then in a loop over the transmission tunnel at the back, where it then connects to the flexi.

Something wrong there?!

Rust dealt with, engine bay gleaming new paint ready to scratch!

Malcolm.
M Le Chevalier

That's correct Malcolm, and as it should be. Though I wonder if it wouldn't be more protected if the brake pipe ran inside the tranny tunnel all the way to the back. Its the bit where it goes along the side of the gearbox tunnel that is easier done before fitting the lump. And although as Dave says, the fuel line isn't effected to the same extent, it seems logical to me to do all of the pipework at the same time anyway.
Guy W

Ah, looks like it changed on the 1500.

Moss catalogue shows clips for attaching the brake pipe to the floor support channel, whereas the 1275 had the pipe P-clipped to the inside of the tunnel.
Dave O'Neill2

Now I didn't know that! It runs under the floor on my 1275, clipped to the seat reinforcer.

But, come to think of it, that's because I fitted it like that, and copied the way it was on my 1500! Doh!
Guy W

Whoa! We finally found something that Guy didn't know!

:-o
M Le Chevalier

Well Malc, if you really wanted to see me struggle with something then you should just watch my abysmal failures at attempting to using CAD software! My brain just refuses to make the transition from drawing board, tracing paper and Rotring pens. And yet it should be so easy! ;-(
Guy W

Id say the brake and clutch lines that run inside the engine bay

Id also do the suspension and steering system also and front end wiring....not a biggy, but more room now so less aggravating

P

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Rather obvious perhaps, but ensure the engine is as you would like it before offerring it up. By that I mean any mods you require done to it - camshaft, rebore, rings, head mods etc etc are done beforehand. If you do not wish to go down this route, I would still recommend removing the head first to see if all is OK - remove all the gunk, check valve seals, gaskets, valve heads, scrape the gunk off the piston heads, paint the block - all of which is much easier to do if the engine is out.

Mark O

Guy....
When I was in college all the professors were complaining when CAD came out.....My drafting teacher in high school made us draw everything old school.... I remember getting drawings back because the pencil lines were to thick. Its a totolly different world today!

I still love to see the major amounts of welding repair guys done on his projects!
Steven Devine

To be fair to Guy it was only the later 1275 cars had the brake line inside the tunnel. All the earlier cars including Frogeyes had them clipped to the floor reinforcing rail under the car.
Bob Beaumont

Started on the brake pipes last night. Bit fiddly getting them looking good and not flapping about all over the place with big loops of pipe ready to get snagged! Did two pipes from front callipers and got the long one clipped in under the car but need to sort out the ends of it.

Prop: Front suspension is on. Brake lines: working on it. Clutch line, no real biggy as I have made up a braided flexy clutch line.

Mark: Engine and box are all refurbed and good to go. Block was completely degreased, +40 thou bore, fully balanced crank/rods etc., fast road cam, head decoked, skimmed, valves lapped blah blah. I forget! All new gaskets.

Thanks for the input everyone.

M Le Chevalier

Well... I tried to refrain, but I cant resist it any longer. Its like saying dont blink then trying not to

So here goes

Rhinno truck bed linner spray on coating in the engine bay

:-)

All down hill from here

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I am not making my engine bay look like a rhinos backside!

Malcolm.
M Le Chevalier

This is your ideal car isn't it Prop!

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T_gPJ2Ecilw/T2KVU_znQNI/AAAAAAAB2FA/kPsZR5vsZq4/s1600/DSC_0016.JPG

M Le Chevalier

O-M-G !!!!

That is so freaken cool...I got to do that to my work truck

A year ago I was looking at a rough VW bettle and I was thinking of doing exactly that...talk about cheap body and paint work

Im such a fan, I should buy the company

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

This thread was discussed between 25/02/2014 and 26/02/2014

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