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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Torquing Left Hand Thread Rear Hub

Is my torque wrench a bit odd in that it only torques things up in the "normal" righty tighty direction?

Wondering about getting rear hubs on this weekend, as one of the threads is left handed I can't torque it up beyond the accuracy of numbers of grunts pulling on a breaker bar.

Or does it really matter as long as it's heaved nice and tight? Peoples guesses at how many torques you need to give it seems to vary from not a lot to near thread strippingly excessive, right?!

Cheers,
Malcolm
M Le Chevalier

If you search the archives you'll find many different answers to this, ranging from 'just tight' to 150 ft lbs.

Being one of the unfortunates who has previously stripped the threads on my axle casing I bought a new torque wrench that works in both directions, and settle on 50-70 ft lbs. Given that they don't make these things anymore I also have a spare axle casing in the shed to guard against future mishaps :)

TonyJH

I have never tried torquing left-handed with mine, although it is supposed to be reversible.

I have also never used a torque wrench on the rear hub nuts, just a good heave on a 2ft bar!
Dave O'Neill2

No never torqued mine either. A good pull on a decent breaker bar is all that is required. Make sure the socket fits well.
Bob Beaumont

There's been lots of discussion around the hub nuts. I don't have a socket that fits, so I've never torqued mine either. Just do um up good n tight.
Pete Ottewell

It's a thin nut with probably a dubious history of being tightened/loosened with cold chisels/stillsons and all sorts.
Don't put grunt into it! There are quotes of 140 ft lbs but it has now been accepted that this figure refers to the nut on the diff assembly. There doesn't seem to be a figure for the axle nut.
I had one go (hence the caution) although in my own defence (!) I think it was bad to start with so subsequently torqued to about 50 or 60 ft lbs.
I think I would use Loctite and rely on the locking washer that employ the long bar.
If the thread goes, and it's the axle thread then that's a real problem.
If you have a square wheel arch, the wheel shouldn't come off!!!

G Williams

Good n tight is probably about right. Is there a clue in the special tool Leyland used to use for hub nuts? I for one would struggle to get to 140lb with that!

W Dunsmore

As that job is on the horizon in the next few days, what size is the nut?
Dominic Clancy

1 7/8" AF (big!)
or med stilsons
small coldchisel
G Williams

I got my socket at a deep discount tool store...it is low quality, but its not like I need it twice a day

I too just gave it a heav and hoe...its good enough for the girls I sleep with

P
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I made a tool for the job by getting a box spanner from a local supplier and it was the correct size on the outside so I bent up some steel around it and welded it on then added a bit of angle to the back end for a lever. Still have it around somewhere. That was about 30 years ago, now I have a lathe and mill I would just make a suitable spanner out of steel plate.
David Billington

I will have to make a tool for my B, as it has an octagonal rear hub nut.

I don't suppose I'll find a socket for that.
Dave O'Neill2

Thanks for the tips guys. Bought the right size socket today. It's a bit o' a chunky monkey indeed! :-D

Will grab my big bar and give it a strong tug and be happy! ;-)

Malcolm.
M Le Chevalier

Dave, I have the tool shown in the image on W Dunsmore's post, It does both the Spridget and the B rear axle nuts being hexagonal on one end and octagonal on the other. The pieces you see sticking out at each end of the socket support the tool down the half shaft tubes whilst you apply a reasonable torque onto the nut.

Always use a new lock washer on these as I've seen many that have come loose but have been held in place by the lock washer. A LITTLE amount of Loctite on a cleaned part of the FEMALE thread may help but will be a bloody nuisance when you want to remove the nut again.

Mark.
M T Boldry

While 140 lb-ft is the figure for the diff, it is also the figure given in the BMC manual for the wheel bearing nut on the B series banjo axle - so the A series will be a bit less but not far away from it. I use 100 lb-ft and absolutely no sign of it going soft. The last thing you want is for the nut to come undone, or this is what happens ...

Paul Walbran

I bought a socket off eBay made by Blue Point in the USA for a 3/4 driver so I got a 1/2 to 3/4 converter. It's an absolute boon to have AND the drive end is exactly the right diameter for pressing the inner oil seal into the hub.

Rob
Rob aka MG Moneypit

I can drop a torque wrench off in Aberdeen that does both sides on Monday if that helps Malcolm.

I also have a i/2 wench side to 3/4 socket side convertor.

I'm in the phone book in Drumtochty with the last numbers 494.

or auchenblae at gmail dot com

eddie
Eddie Cairns

I have always just tightened it up with a good pull and in 35 odd years of spridget ownership I have not had a problem. This has included cars used for circuit racing with 8" slicks, auto testing and sprints. There is nothing in the tuning or workshop manuals referring to a torque setting other than makes sure its tight!
Bob Beaumont

Bob as you say nothing wrong with a good tighten with a breaker bar.

eddie
Eddie Cairns

Thanks for the offer Eddie, I will just yank it tight with a breaker bar. I am not all that precious about tightening everything off to the exact N-cm of torque (expect where critical of course!).

Have the socket, converter to 1/2 drive etc.

Cheers,
Malcolm
M Le Chevalier

No problem, feel free once the car is back together to come out and use the two post lift in Drumtochty at any time.

eddie
Eddie Cairns

This thread was discussed between 14/02/2014 and 15/02/2014

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