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MG MG Y Type - Body onto Chassis

G'Day everyone, this coming Saturday Y2924 will be having a big event. I am uniting the newly painted body with her chassis. A few fellow club members will be assiting in lifting the body off the slave chassis on to the finished chassis. My question is, will the cutout in the boot floor for the fuel tank clear the fuel tank when we fit the body or will I have to remove the fuel tank first?
Thanks in advance,Regards, Mike.
Mike Stearn


Mike

I left the tank in place and slid the rear body section (with the elongated hole in the boot floor) sideways over the filler neck = from nearside towards the centre of the chassis

Good luck
Anton
Anton Piller

Thanks Anton, I thought by looking at it that it could be done, but it's nice to know someone has done it before! Will keep you updated after the job is done tomorrow.
Regards,
Mike.
Mike Stearn

Refitting the body back onto the chassis went very well. Six men lifting & me directing!!! Fuel tank remained in position & no problems clearing it. Thanks to all who helped lifting from the Canberra MG Car Club. I now have a spare YA chassis if anyone would like it, free to a good home! Now, on with the trim...... Mike.
Mike Stearn

Hello Mike,
I pass on a tip from Bill Spall who has restored three YA's since he retired - do the floor last ! - if you put the chassis on high stands you can stand up inside the car while you do the interior trim, saving you knees and back in the process.

You will have to work around the chassis, but removing the propshaft and centre rails will provide an excellent work space.

If you look at factory photos of the bodies being trimmed, you will see how high they need to be lifted to do this job in comfort.

So your car will be ready in time for the 2012 MG National Meeting in Hobart ?.

cheers

Tony Slattery
A L SLATTERY

Thanks Tony, as my back is not the best, this sounds like very good advice!
I hope to be finished this year so maybe I could make Hobart. No promises on that one though!
Regards, Mike.
Mike Stearn

Happy to help Mike.

Before you give that slave chassis away, can you add it to the database on the International MG Y-Type Website, so we know has has happened to that car.

I have a YA to re-trim in the next six months, so we can share patterns/solutions if you wish.

cheers
Tony
A L SLATTERY

When we scrapped the car, (more rust than metal!), I got as many bits from it that I could. At the time, many years ago, I did contact the register & let them know the fate of Y 2788.
Every piece of timber inside my car is missing, including all the tacking "compressed paper", so I am going to have to replace all of that first. I purchased the publication about fitting a hoodlining by Jack Murray & this will be a great help I think. It shows you shapes & sizes of timber to make. I have a new hoodlining that came with the car when I bought it many years ago. This should all be good fun!!!
Cheers,
Mike.
Mike Stearn

When I need to "replace" the paper rope/compressed paper in the channels I use MDF cut into small pieces where this needs to go around curves. Provides excellent achorage.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi Mike,
If you send me your email address i have pictures that could be of use to you,
John UMG624
mgyb@btinternet.com
JC Jebb

Hi John,
I have just sent you my email address, thanks. Mike.
Mike Stearn

G'day Mike,

I am at a similar stage with my car - did you stick any insulating type material (rubber, felt etc) on top of the body mounting points before lowering the body shell on to them? If so what did you use please?

Neil Wakeman
N Wakeman

Neil et al

When I did mine I replaced the felt pad with cork from a bulletin board on the basis that cork, unlike felt, will not reatin water.

Paul
Paul Barrow

I had a supply of material I bought at a swap meet called "Chassis Packing". It was like a thick bituminous packing - try Google or Hot Rod Suppliers. It does not hold moisture, and does not easily compress, and compensates for imperfect matching steel parts.

Try Old Auto Rubber Co - I think that's who I bought mine from.
A Slattery

The pads between the floor-boards and the chassis & out-riggers, should be 1/4 inch thick cork. All mine were and appeared original and this is confirmed in "Let there be Ys" Appendix 3 page 255.
Keith
Keith D Herkes

G'Day Neil,
It was cork that was used originally as my car still showed signs of it. However, I used rubber that was reinforced with some sort of cord & it was of roughly the same thickness. I glued it on to the chassis & when the body was back on I trimmed it up.
Now entering the realms of woodworker/motor trimmer for the hood lining. going ok so far!!!
Cheers,
Mike.
Mike Stearn

Thanks everybody!
N Wakeman

This thread was discussed between 07/04/2011 and 27/05/2011

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