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MG MG Y Type - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH SAME AS A TD

Guys

I need a new hydraulic brake light switch. Does a TD switch fit a YT? I noted that in the latest Moss Catalogue thay they offer two variations for a TD.

PART NO 13H2303 SWITCH, brake light (OE type screw)on 4 way fitting: £7.25 inc VAT

PART NO C16062A SWITCH, brake light (alternative Lucar* (Lucas?) on 4 way fitting: £5.26 inc VAT

I haven't look at NTG but will do.

I have also been advised that a mechanical switch is more robust,has anyone experience or knowledge of fitting such an adaptation? One of the reasons mentioned for taking this course of action is the poor quality of reproduction parts.

Thanks for any help.

Sincerely

Jerry
J P BIRKBECK

Guys

I am wrong there having glanced at NTG's site. It's a 3 way union. They have them in stock at a whopping £50+ (inc VAT). Has anyone any idea of an alternative supplier?

Thanks

Jerry


J P BIRKBECK

Hi Jerry

No sorry it wont work. It will workon a YB but not Y/YT.

The best option for you is to go to C&C - they are on the Links page and they still supply the Y/YT Hydraulic switch conversion that the MG Car Club Y Type Register used to sell until the Main Club directed that they could not sell it. If you encounter any difficulties, please contact David Pelham (UK IMGYTR Representative) and he will be able to help you get the right part.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi Jerry

I know that you are aware that none of the Y Types (Saloons or Tourers) were fitted with a Hydraulic Brake Switch as standard; both had the mechanical ‘brass strip’ switch. The YA & YT had 1/4 inch brake pipes and the YB had 3/16 inch brake pipes and this has resulted in two different applications of hydraulic brake light switches.

The YB was always an easy modification as almost all cars during the 1950s/1960s had 3/16 inch pipes and it just required fitting an in-line three way union and using a hydraulic brake switch on the ‘T’ piece. This was effectively the same as the TD and almost all other cars during the 1950s.

The YA/YT required an alternative solution and I organised these with Will Claesens (C&C)Baarlo in Holland and it is highly probable that you have one of their solutions fitted. Their part consisted of a ‘Twin Banjo’ that replaced the single Banjo fitting into the brake master cylinder. It was as simple as removing the brake pipe from the single banjo and then refitting the double banjo with the brake pipe connected to one of the unions and the hydraulic switch to the other and then reconnecting the whole thing up. I recall the early twin banjos had 1/4 inch threads on both unions and had a 1/4 inch Hydraulic brake light switch. However, the later ones had a 1/4 inch thread for the brake pipe and a 3/16 inch thread for the switch; this enabled the more common and much cheaper 3/16 inch switch to be fitted to one of the unions. These switches were fitted to Minis etc and are plentiful.

I am afraid that you will need to check which of these two options you have. There is also a possibility that your car was fitted with a USA Modification but I believe that the C&C solution is the more likely. If you have a 3/16 switch then no problems but a 1/4 inch one will be more tricky to acquire.

Regards.
David Pelham

Jerry

I forgot to mention in relation to your comment about the mechanical switch possibly being more robust. The mechanical switch was located in the Pedal Box and was operated by a piece of wire connected to the Brake Pedal. This pulled a lever on the switch with made contact between two brass strips and completed the circuit; lighting up the brake light. As this switch was located in the Pedal Box it was always covered in 'muck & grease' which often stopped the contact making good.

If you have a hydraulic switch it would be nothing more than a retrograde step to revert to the original.

Regards.

David Pelham

Why have a hydraulic brake switch - modern cars dont. Just fit a micro switch so that it is 'off' when the pedal is in its normal postion but comes on when you depress the brake pedal..they were fitted to all sorts of cars and cost about £3. The downside of hydraulic switches is that they only work when the pressure builds up in them...after a while mild braking may not operate the brake lights whereas if set up properly with the electric switch the slightest movement of the pedal operates the brake lights.

An example is:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-brake-light-switch-prc4297-/220978765669?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item33735c5f65
D MULLEN

Dave

That's very interesting and very cheap. There is alandrover dealer where I live si I'll have a chat with them. I assume that you have fitted such a mod to your Y? If so what are the arrangements for fitting please?

Thank you also David for your informative account which is much appreciated. I am aiming to sort out the problem next week especially since I have acquired a set of LED's from Terry Sanders.

All the best

Jerry
J P BIRKBECK

Mine was mounted on the floor initially so that it pushed against the pedal. When you depress the pedal it opens and is 'on'. I then mounted it in (through) the brake pedal cover (which is the cover that is held on by 3 bolts to the chassis) so that it went through and was secured with a nut on the inside (the plastic is threaded)and was adjusted to press against the pedal..it worked fine but the plastic thread went and I reverted to using the in line hydraulic switch which is easily obtainale for the YB. It is just a question of trial and error but it does work...what stopped me refitting it was lying upside down in cramped conditions! I did post some photos or send them to someone a while ago but cant recall now who it was.
D MULLEN

David must have given me the idea, because I fitted a mechanical switch into the cover mounted on the chassis. It's the type that is continually depressed by the brake lever, as described in David's post. Cost me about $A10 from memory. See attached photo - you mightn't recognise the little cover because mine was missing so I had to make one to do the job myself!

N Wakeman

This is the thread I refered to Terry
Terry O'Brien

Interested in comments about brake light switches. I always try to keep YB as original as possible but the brake light switch has always been a tricky area. The workshop manual has virtually no mention of switch used. Neil Cairns as usual has written up a really useful item on the brake pedal box etc. I disliked using the pressure switch on two counts, 1: not original to type and 2: brake lights only on when brakes applied with adequate pressure. I decided on my own design that I knew would work ok even it was not original.
I did modify a Lucas mechanical switch and spring return to a position on chassis forward of brake pedal but this could be hit and miss as spring deflection had to be very precise.
My current solution is to use an adjustable switch from a 3 series BMW, good quality proper brass thread and micro adjustment using two locking nuts fitted to a simple homemade stainless steel bracket also fitted to the chassis in front of brake pedal. The pedal has a little extension and block made from stainless steel and aluminium to push the switch to off position.When pedal is depressed, the switch is released and the circuit is completed so lights come on. It is adjusted so that the initial small amount of free movement of pedal operates lights before actual pressure applied.
Not everybody's cup of tea, but a lot safer and more reliable than some of the alternate solutions.
Have downloaded a photo of BMW switch in situ on YB pedal arm, just possible to see where the my abortive Lucas switch was fitted in the ghosted six sided silhouette on chassis forward of new switch. The little tab with a hole is for attaching the spring to the Lucas switch if I need to refit my first design. In use the area is covered by a splash guard.


M C Bath

This thread was discussed between 28/03/2012 and 10/02/2013

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