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MG MG Y Type - Cleaning gauge faces.

I've just finished salvaging the original dashboard (will post pix soon), and am looking to clean the front faces of the gauges. What is the best fluid to use to remove grime but not damage the black paintwork or the white numbers/letters? I'm thinking maybe prepwash (in Australia, not sure what the equivalent is overseas) but would like to know what others have used successfully. With thanks ... John.
J P Hall

Adding a related question, on the speedometer gauge, is the needle supposed to unscrew or just (very carefully) pull out? - on my tatty spare gauge I tried to pull the needle off but as soon as I applied any pressure it broke away. All advice gratefully received. John.
J P Hall

John,

May I suggest you ask John Marks at Vintage Restoration's

instruments@vintagerestorations.com

He has been doing this sort of thing for long enough to know the answers without guess work. I went to his workshop when I had my YT instruments fixed by John and it's proper old time place like going back in time. Great chap who knows his stuff.

Richard
R E Knight

I'll attempt most things except gearboxes, back axles and trimming the seats but also on my list is the instrument gauges...the numerals etc are so easy to damage if you attempt cleaning etc (as is the mechanism) so I would definetly get someone who knows what they are doing do it for you and I say that as one who has always worked on a very limited budget.
D MULLEN

John

In Brisbane, we have Lionel Otto Instruments who do repairs and restoration of old Instruments. Give them a ring. I have just sent my Tacho and Speedo to them as the needles were all over the place.

If you are after new odometer numerals, search the TD-TF board, as Peter Hehir of Sydney has had some made. He may also have ideas on clearing the instrument faces.

Stuart
Stuart Duncan

Thanks for everyone's comments.
I tried Prepwash on my spare gauge face, with complete success; all grime removed, letters cleaned up, just need to wipe a bit of lanolin spray or similar to give a nice finish and long term protection - I suspect not silicone spray.
As to the removal of the needle, I found a useful 10 minute video by Mike Flannery on YouTube, which nicely summarises the whole strip down of a Smiths chronometric speedo. The needle is carefully prised off, but watch how he does it, first!
And Stuart, I will definitely follow up the odo numerals with Peter Hehir, I'd seen his posts last year - main thing is I'm loathe to dismantle the whole thing, if I can avoid it - even though Mike Flannery makes it look terribly easy.
As a matter of interest, both speedo casings that I've been playing with have inscriptions inside with what looks like a rebuild or service date and the mileage at that time. Useful to track the genuine mileage of the car if the item is original.
Yours, John.
J P Hall

The safest cleaner for instrument faces is mild detergent and a very soft brush. It is risky to use any form of solvent as screen printed faces used different based paints over the years, and what might work for one era, may wipe away another.

Most instrument technicians follow the watchmakers pattern in marking instruments with dates/notes when servicing or repairing.

Good Work John
A L SLATTERY

Hello All,
I am rebuilding my YT's dash and the next step is to clean up the gauges on the bench. I note (somewhere) that I need to rotate the bezels to remove them. I have been unable to shift any of them by hand.
Is there a method to loosen them?
Or do I straighten the tangs and pull them off directly.
Or send them to an instrument repairer and wear the cost(ouch)

Thanks KG
K G Mills

I cleaned my dial faces about 18 years ago, can't remember how. I thought I had done a good job until a few weeks later when my thumb print appeared on the fuel gauge dial. Its still there as my proof of ownership.
Peter
Peter Vielvoye

Hi KG,
There is a o-ring between the bezel and glass. Over time this hardens and glues it all together so you can't rotate it. You could try soaking in some solvent for a day or two to soften the old rubber, but the solvent could damage the instrument face.

Sending it to someone who has done it before is less risky, but you wear the cost of their experience & talent.

Bits for these instruments are hard to find - by all means choose your own path, but try to minimise damage.

Good Luck
Tony
A L SLATTERY

Thanks Tony,
/
From_the_frame_up lists a few bits and pieces, so perhaps if need be I can select any bits that I can damage and replace.
But they don't mention clock glasses which are the obvious ones to break.

Seems like everyone has a pet recipe for rubber softening/reconditioning, including brake fluid. Might try to avoid that one if I want to keep the face details.

Are the stick on face decals any good?

regards KG
K G Mills

KG,

As per my earlier post, John Marks has the kit for repairing these instruments. He has the machinery for making the bezels and also the dial faces too. I concur with Tony's comment about avoiding damage, once done will be far more expensive to find replacements than do the job for slightly more expensive price in the first place in my view. The original instruments on YT's are quite rare to find in the UK, they may be more accessable in Australia, but just my own personal view.
I believe John does not deal directly abroad, but within the clubs there will be people willing to help, best try someone close to Kent where he is based if you go down this route, and there are Y Type owners and members of the IMGYTR who I'm sure would be willing to help,by you sending the instruments to them and they post it on to you with insured tracked delivery.
For me it is approximately 4 hour round trip, which I did twice to ensure safe receipt and delivery of my own instruments, some items I'd risk the post others, safe in my own safe pair of hands and write off the time, which I accept for you in Oz is not option.

instruments@vintagerestorations.com

Good luck with whichever option you choose.

Richard Knight
Richard Knight

Hi KG,
I have never had a good experience with he self adhesive faces. I have always sent my instruments to Lionel Otto's in Brisbane. They can supply new screen printed faces, or will clean your existing faces - whatever you choose. They even have new faces for the petrol gauge (unique to YT).

You will not get a cheap job, but they know their stuff and you will get a quality job.

Cheers

Tony
The Classic Workshop
A L SLATTERY

Hi John
I’ve recently fettled my gauges (and didn’t go blind) by using neat Fairy Liquid and a large nylon watercolour wash brush. Clean as a whistle.
Stubborn marks shift using the shorter-bristled oil paint brush, again nylon, with another of which I cleaned up the carbs nicely.
I was given a good tip by an old mechanic friend of mine: I use neat Fairy Liquid and granulated sugar as a grinding paste to shift belligerent muck, also clean my hands with it. Clean as a whistle.
A J R Felthouse

Thanks all for the advice.
After a few more unsuccessful attempts at dismantling the gauges, even with pre-soaking and using hands supplied by kick-boxing-weight-lifting 98kg step-son, (who is normally quite a useful addition to the workshop), I have sent the gauges off to Otto, as per Tony's recommendation. That was five or six weeks back; however still waiting for his advice. /
But I have no doubt they will be worth waiting for.

thanks again
Kevin Mills
K G Mills

Hi all,

Nothing (much) to see here.)
As they say, life is what happens while we are busy making plans. In my case, ill health has slowed things up more than a bit.
Anyway, the gauges duly came back from Otto's. Looked a treat, went into a box. Am now finally trying to rebuild dash. And I find the ammeter's light port is in the wrong place, and the petrol gauges needle is on the wrong side of its stop. That would save a lot of fuel I guess. Sent a message to Otto's. No reply as yet, they say 48 hrs to answer, but that is Queensland time of course. And COVID stuffs everyone up. It is yet another case of the joys in restoring one of these old girls.
Just to show that there is still hope, here's a pic of the rear end. And I reckon life here is pretty good compared to most.
I may never drive this car, but someone will.

regards all, KG


K G Mills

This thread was discussed between 31/03/2018 and 28/10/2021

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