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MG MG Y Type - Door seal

Please I need a hint for the usage of door seals.
Is it necessary to use the original seals like offered from NTG -- see photo left side.
Or can the job be eased with "modern" seals like on the right side of the photo?
It would be interesting to hear, whether anybody already tried with the modern ones?

regards
Walter

Walter Prechsl

Walter

The NTG kit is really esay to use - just go slowly.

Layout a lot of old newspaper several layers thick on the floor to catch over spray then use a good upholstery quality aerosol adhesive spray lightly onto the rubber a small section at a time, lay the fabric over the top in the correct position (I think it wraps around the rubber from memory - it has been 10 years since I did mine) and leave it to dry. Then do another section. I did about 2 feet (70cm) at a time and just took a couple of days to do the entire length.

Then, when you are done, remove the floor boards from one side and do a door at a time with the join being about 70cm or so up the B post for both the front and the rear door. Cut to length when it is ON the car and tacked into place with nails to the trim holder paper rope.

Go slowly and you will be fine. Do not use the modern stuff, you will be wasting your time and money for a terrible looking result.

Paul
Paul Barrow


Walter

When I bought my YT many years back, it had a modern seal (just like the one on the right hand side on your photo) fitted to one side. I can confirm, It did not look right - thus I went for the NTG stuff.
I did as Paul recommended, only to us a 1 Litre can of heat resistant glue that I applied with a paint brush.This way you might go a bit faster :o)

And yes, the fabric wraps around and into the rubber semi-tube.

Anton
Anton Piller

The original coach lacing was not glued to the rubber roll seal, however I can see that it could help. I posted a "how to" on our website which shows one way to fit it. Although I would butt the join with the material folded back under and not overlapped if I did it again. http://www.mgccyregister.co.uk/technical-information/miscellaneous/bodywork-glass/fitting-new-door-draught-excluder This requires all the trim and floors to be removed which makes it a big job. The second time, I went for the push on trim which I have seen fitted in many Ys, Woolies part 139, this looks good to me but I don't think it would look correct with the rubber seal attached as in your photo. The rubber seal that fits in the door has no alternative to my knowledge. If you fit the coach laceing Woolies is the best price.
Peter
Peter Vielvoye

Walter & Peter

I do not know about the Y / YB Types, but when I bought my YT it had fragments/remnants of the original door draft excluders (see attachment). The coach lacing was just wide enough to use it the way, I previously had suggested, i.e. the lacing is folded under/into the tube.
I checked my old invoices and found that I had bought, amongst lots of other trimming stuff, the rubber extrusion and lacing from Woolies. Part Numbers R123 and 306.

Woolies are a very helpful crowd and sent me material and colour samples of all the stuff I requested. Even of the hard to find narrow hidem banding that you need for the cars interior.

I am sure that if Walter asks them nicely, they will let him know what the correct way of covering the rubber extrusion is. Walter can then let us all know :o)

Anton


Anton Piller


Draft excluder seen from outside

Anton Piller


Draft excuder seen from inside.

Anton Piller

Wow - seriously nice work there Anton
Paul Barrow

Thank you Paul - have some more :o)
Anton

Anton Piller

Anton
Your interior trim looks fantastic - congratulations.

Just wondering if the you installed the interior trim or was it in place when you purchased your YT?

If you installed the interior, what did you use behind the fabric (ply or original style mill-board)? I ask as your panels appear smooth whereas mine using mill board is not flat.

Also, how did you treat the R/H front panel to give room for the right foot on the accelerator pedal? A photo please.

cheers
Stuart
Stuart Duncan

I asked Woolies for a recommendation, how to apply the lacing. The answer was not a detailled help:
-------------
Thank you for your enquiry, we are not really sure of the best adhesive to use but general purpose contact adhesive should work. Whatever adhesive you decide on we would strongly recommend you do a test piece first.
-------------
My answer to Stuartīs question:
I bent the gas pedal a bit to the left.

regards
Walter
Walter Prechsl

Walter

I used upholstery glue in an aerosol can. Just apply lightly - put too much on and it will seep through the material, too little and it wont hold it in place.

It is very hard to define which is why Woolies verge on the side of caution so they have chosen their words carefully.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Stuart

I installed the intrior trim myself.

I used plywood with the doors and millboard at the sides of the leg space. This is how it should be - I had taken three pictures of the original door panels and if you you need any, let me have your e-mail address.

I treated my front pants as described in "Let there be Ys" on page 187. I sprayed the soft side of the board with water and hammered the board on a panel beaters indented wooden block to achieve the recess.

I also shortened the acellrator pedal to better suit my big size 12 foot.

Octagonally
Anton, YT 4220




Anton Piller

Hi again Anton,
where the coach lace runs along the door sill, there is no tacking strip. Did you glue this bit, or drill and screw the sill to fix it?

And a prolix comment on how I glued the lace to the rubber.
I used a long piece of scrap timber (3m or so) and laid the lace and the rubber on it. The lace is wide enough to protrude a little beyond the flange of the rubber in my case. I then used masking tape on the flange and the bit of lace showing, over the full length. Then the rubber was turned over using the tape as a hinge. Another run of tape was used to protect the outer edge of the lace so I could spray adhesive on the rubber and the lace only as far as the flange would extend. Now hinge the rubber back over the lace and press the matching glued section together. Remove the tape protecting the lace and relay it on the rubber flange, leaving the roll of the P section exposed. More spray along the outer portion of the lace and the roll to the P. Now just progressively bring the lace over the rubber and force it into the roll of the rubber. Take off the tape. It sounds tedious but no mess, no glue on fingers and a neat job resulted.
Of course I took no pictures, Franz would rightly criticize me. But if anyone wants I'll make up a sketch or two.

KG
K G Mills

Of course I took no pictures, Franz would rightly criticize me. But if anyone wants I'll make up a sketch or two.

Hi

you are right ;-)

have tried to understand your description
used also a translator
don t understand what you have done

but

my car is ready now and i am waiting for some dry days to enjoy it

i haven t use the parts from england
was too expensive for me
look to my blog to see how i have done it

i drove my car about 30 km and it was wonderful
so quiet and smooth
FT Franz

Hello Franz,

sorry. I thought about it too late. (Story of my life?)

Here's a couple of quick drawings which might help.
When I stretched the stuff out, I used a series of weights to hold it while I applied the masking tape. (In case "masking tape" doesn't translate, it is a paper tape used when painting windows and the like to protect an area that is not to be painted. )


And you are right about the cost. But luckily, the YT only needs one piece of the lace, to do around the bottom of both doors, not four like your Y. (NTG's site says two, but one is enough.

cheers KG





K G Mills

one picture says more then 1000 words

THX

;-)

your the best !
perfect pictures
FT Franz


Re. the question , how I fixed the draft excluder to the dor silll:

I used tiny self tapping screws that are hidden by the original type "narrow" hidem banding (the special banding also came from woolies).

Picture 1 shows the method of fastenig the Milboard on the drivers side whith chromed self tappers and dished washers. I used the original boltholes - especially with the indictment for the right foot.

If you look closely, you can see on the attached picture 2, the pencil markings that I used to position the self tapping screws (now of corse hidden by the hidem strip).

Both photos should be turned clockwise, in an upright position!

Anton

P.S.: For fun, I'll send an additional phot to show, what the milboard and weather strips look like behind the dashboard.





Anton Piller


Behind the dash

AP

Anton Piller

Hi Anton,
The photos are a great help, thanks or taking this trouble.
I have the binding on order from Woolies.

Did you use the screws and washers across the bottom of the door opening? That is where there is no millboard , just the adjacent floorboards and carpet edging steel strip.

regards KG

PS I didn't use millboard for the panel. but have made use of ABS. That is embossed, so I have been considering the option of just painting it rather than vinyl covering. Picture shows the trial of this on a scrap of the abs. I have the good fortune of being helped by a paint specialist, also a great MG lover and collector.


K G Mills

Hello
if you use abs it is not original but maybe better and you don't see the difference
For me it is ok.

i don't like screws on a nice part
so i would think about another way to fix it

magnetic sticker on the back

or like a friend of mine did it with velcro to stick it on

i have used modern car clips instead of screws on a similar part, but that only works if you put vinyl over it.
FT Franz

KG

In the viscinity of the door opening, I used dropplets of multipurpose glue, every four inch to stick the binding to the top of the inner sill (underneath the floor boards).

Again, I send another two photos (four in all).

Stay tuned
Anton




Anton Piller


Some more seal pics. Note the collapsebl wooden door frame....




Anton Piller

This thread was discussed between 17/11/2018 and 05/12/2021

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