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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MG Y Type - Door seals - rubber

NTG sells door seals in 12 foot length. Changing all the door seals requires about 24 feet of this narrow rubber door seal and will cost around $100 CAN.

Is there an alternative? Is there another supplier which offers so many kinds of rubber door seals that there is a less expensive model that will fit in the narrow channel that wraps around the door?

My car curiously came without any such seals so I don't know what it looks like and what are it's dimensions.

Thank you.
Gilles Bachand

I bought the so called replacement door seals for all 4 doors and guess what - 1. it is difficult to fit and 2. its the wrong shape compared to the original - the upshot is the doors don't shut! Beware - either get pieces of the original type (Morris 8 serries E fits I am told) or use something else that fits better - I have used sponge seal on the inside of the door edges as a tempory fix.
David Mullen

I believe the correct weather seal (attached to the door) - as opposed to the draught seal which goes around the door frame - is actually available cut to length from the following suppliers:

1. Spectrum Rubber - Australia, email Terry on terry@spectrumrubber.com.au at about $4AU a foot but dont hold me to that. Terry knows the profile and stock number if you tell him it is for an MG Y,
and
2. Woolies Trim - stock number is R40, current price £1.64/metre (3foot 3inches). Cut to length. Contact info@woolies-trim.co.uk. See their entry on the Links page.

The prices are roughly comparable and both ship overseas. I have had no experience with Spectrum other than getting a quote but as I was already getting some stuff shipped from Woolies I added it to their order and it was delivered within a week. I can recommend the Woolies service definitely.

I have yet to fit the R40 to my YT doors (it is the same) but I beleive the profile and measurements are correct - 'T' section seal. Suitable for opening screen. Overall length 21mm (13/16") with head of 'T' approx. 7mm. If you want to wait a while I can check this out and get back to you to confirm.

A final word though Gilles - you cannot weather proof a Y - sedans leak through almost every screen seal, and up through the floor boards and around the front doors! Best you cna hope for is mitigation!! I think I mentioned this to you when you were looking to buy. However, having NO SEAL will certainly not be helping in this respect! Any seal will be better than none!

More later,

Paul
Paul Barrow

Gilles,

the rubber section suggested by Paul is not suitable for the door. Woolies number R40 is far too large and is the stuff for sealing your windscreen. You need the same section but smaller otherwise you will never close the door (if you can get it to fit into the channel on the door).

Jack
Jack Murray

Interesting.On my YT I used the seals from NTG about 8-9 years ago. While I can close the doors the seal remains proud on the outside against the body and is unsightly. The doors also have a distortion towards the bottom. Where can one obtain the Morris Series E door seals?
By the way when I replaced the seals I removed the original. It was hard as rock so broke into small pieces but seemed to have the same profile as the new seal from NTG. Terry
Terry O'Brien

I think this topic has been on before but a long time ago. I believe the correct seal can only be fitted one way. The tail is not at 90° to the head but angled inwards slightly towards the body and the tail has a bulge which should sit on the outside against the door to keep it pointing inwards. The tail is also slightly curved inwards not flat. The whole idea being the tail locates into the corner of the body recess however over time and close fitting doors it tends to sit outside the door edge. I think mine came from NTG only to find out later they are made here in OZ but no idea who. Cheers Richo YT3208
Richo

I think the Australian source of this seal for the Morris 8 (which I THINK is the same as the Y) may be via:

www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au

David Mullen

I went to see Woolies profile drawing of their R-40 rubber extrusion seal: http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/pc-1783-322-rubber-extrusion.aspx

Then, with a scrap piece of garage door bottom rubber seal, I replicated a 2 inch long section of the Woolies trim (7mm x 21mm) and it seemed to fit perfectly.

BASE: 8mm is very difficult to fit in the metal channel, but 7mm is just right.

HEIGHT: In a few tight places, 21mm is 1mm to 2mm too much and it does prevent the door from closing properly. In those tight places, trimming back the rubber carefully with an X-Acto seems to solve the problem.

What do you think about this way of going about things?
Gilles Bachand

When I get there I think I'll be prepared to give the R-40 a go. As Jack says though, getting it in the channel is probably the hardest part.
Paul Barrow

Having looked back through the invoices I have for the restoration of my YA where I replaced all 4 door seals I believe I used Vintage Supplies (aka Paul Beck - see Links page) and used about 6 meters of his RM6 extrusion. This is black, 7.6mm base x 20mm long approx, so is not dissimilar to the stuff I now have from Woolies.

I will double check with the guy who did most of the rebuild as to what his experience was and report back!

Paul
Paul Barrow

OK the main man said ...

"It is easier if the rubber is pliable so a nice warm ambient temperature is good. It went in fairly easily just push in one side, then 'help' the other side in with a flat bladed screwdriver with a couple of layers of insulating tape over the end so that you dont scratch the paint if you slip.
A moderate amount of WD40 may also help slide the sides in too.
The channel must be cleaned out first though on the base and under the edges of the metal lip."

Paul
Paul Barrow

And finally, my foolproof and nil cost remedy for water leaks at doors and screen.

Don't take the poor old Y out in the wet.
j m nicholson

This thread was discussed between 01/02/2007 and 07/02/2007

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