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MG MG Y Type - Fan Belt issue

Hey all, while working with the radiator removed, I see the fan belt is frayed on the edges. The darned thing won't fit between the crank pulley and the mount. Has anyone had this before? Tom
Thomas McNamara

Hi Tom

Do you have the right one? It may be the right measurements but not one for an MG Y or MG TD.

Try getting a new one. You should anyway if yours is frayed. Your nearest vendor is Abingdon Spares at

Paul Barrow

Now this is for a TD, but I would think a Y would be the same.
Its about adjusting the belt, but there are model numbers for three makers belts at the end.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

provided you have a cast pulley on dynamo this might help " "Megadyn" Oleostatic B36
17X917L1 made in the EEC other marking 351 and 11 This fitted to YB
John UMG624
JC Jebb

What do you mean by 'won't fit between the crank pulley and the mount'?

Can you post a picture?
Willem van der Veer

Just had onther thought is the front engine mount ok if it settles it's hard to get belt on
JC Jebb

Thomas means front engine mounting bracket of which the mounting rubber is underneath so wether it's good or bad wont make and difference(my previous posting)I have always found the thick belts need a push to go between c/pulley and mount
John UMG624
JC Jebb

Hey all, thanks for the ideas. It seems that there is a "bow" to the engine mount of about 1/4 inch. That is the additional space needed to remove or install the belt. How strange! I guess the mount needs to come off to be hammered a bit. Anyone ever have this problem? Thanks again,Tom
Thomas McNamara

Hey all, back to the fan belt. I have 3 fan belts, 2 Moss #434-120 and the frayed one from the car. All are different sizes! Question; Does the fan belt ride level with the pulley sides or slightly recessed? Thanks, Tom
Thomas McNamara

My posting yesterday on Megadyne, i have just been told by the company they don't make them anymore.Octagon do though 3izes
John UMG624
JC Jebb

The best belt to use is BX 36, which works better on small sheaves (pulleys) because the notches allow for better, 'wrap'.
V belts drive on their sides, so if the bottom of a sheave is shiny it is worn out and should be replaced. If the sides of a sheave are ridged, again it should be replaced.
Loose belts cause bearing failure and overheating due to slippage.
S.R. Barrow

This is how my B36 belt fits.

I can't remember having difficulties fitting it. Maybe it wise to start at the crank pulley and use a toothed belt like mine?

Willem van der Veer

Hi All,
Has anyone got the dimensions of these toothed belts please,that is depth of belt from top of belt to bottom of tooth
and thickness of belt at top of belt and thickness at bottom of tooth in mm if possible .thank you.
John UMG624
JC Jebb

I have a B36 belt.

B – The B stands for a “B” section v-belt. This is considered a “Classic” v-belt style that has a top width of 21/32 (0.656) inches, but is commonly referred to as a 5/8 (0.625) inch belt. The thickness of the belt is 13/32 (0.406) inches.

36– 36 inches is the inside circumference of the belt. For B-section v-belts, the outside circumference is found by adding 3 inches to the inside length of the belt. So, the outside circumference of the B36 belt is 39 inches (36+3).


You can Google B36 belt for countless results.
Willem van der Veer

I didn't read your post carefully. You'd like to know the depth of the teeth too.

Maybe this weekend I try to make a measurement.
Willem van der Veer

If you google BX36 you get the results for cogged belts

Willem van der Veer

Just been learning a little more about toothed belts, apparently they are 2% more efficient than non toothed belts and run cooler and last longer.The X in the BX36 is the important bit if you order a belt and want a toothed one At eighty odd i still have things to learn!!!!
John UMG624
JC Jebb

This thread was discussed between 19/11/2016 and 25/11/2016

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