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MG MG Y Type - Fasteners for intrior trim panels

Gentlemen,
I would like your guidance as to the fittings used to secure the interior trim panels. Specifically, the L & R hand panels below the fascia (the left-hand one incorporates the key for the spare wheel locker cover) and the ones below the fixed side window glass (the ones incorporating the outside leather padded arm rests for the rear seat).
I believe the original fasteners were No 6 raised countersunk sheet metal screws of varying lengths. They were chromium plated and I believe had Posi-drive crossheads.
Did they include small cupped washers between the c/s screw head and the panels? My original panels do, but I suspect the washers may be later additions.
Thanks,

Rocky
YB0952
Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

Hi Rocky,
My YB has been in the family since 61 and is very original, rear side window and foot well panels are as yours i:e screws and cup washers.
John YB0362
JC Jebb

Thanks John!
Your information is most appreciated.
Rocky
Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

Yes Rocky - screws and cup washers!

Paul
Paul Barrow

Out of interest I checked my interior trim which is all original Rexine upholstery and mine differs from the above in that the only screws that have countersunk washers are the three screws below the arm rest.
The front foot well side panels do not have the washers, and I strongly suspect they never have. What makes me think they they never had washers is if they did, the washers would have most certainly left an indent in the rexine and mill board. Photo 1 shows the screw in the foot well without a washer. This applies to all screws in the foot well.
Picture 2 shows the screw partially withdrawn and as you can see there is no sign of any indent from a washer.
Picture 3 shows one of the screws below the armrest which are fitted with a countersunk washer.
Picture 4 shows the screw and washer removed and a clear indent left by the countersunk washer.
I feel that once the panels have been indented by a countersunk washer the indent will remain.
Did all cars receive the same treatment? I guess we will never know. I don't know if this helps or confuses the issue.


T J Ciantar

Image 2

T J Ciantar

Image 3

T J Ciantar

Image 4

T J Ciantar

Terry - not to interrupt this useful thread, I'll send you a pm about the photos you've posted. It concerns the windlace or draught excluder which looks original on your car. I'm agonising over installing in original style or a more modern fuzzy pinchweld ... sorry, I'll contact you separately. Thank you Rocky for the opportunity! Yours, John.
J P Hall

Terry,

Thanks for your feedback and the photos. I totally agree with each of your points.

The orig rexine fabric and millboards on my footwell panels clearly show the indents on the four screws along the edge at the door opening. The indents are identical in size (7/16" od) as those on the rear armrest panel screw holes. Based on this, I assume they were all orig to my particular car.

John, FYI I will be installing the orig style rubber/fabric door seals as the next step in my interior restoration project. I am trying to stay as original as possible while making everything as complicated and expensive as I can!!!

BTW, I am enjoying a cup of coffee and an Arnott's Tim Tam as I write this to you.

Rocky
Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

Rocky, you are clearly a man of exquisite tastes - Tim Tams very hard to beat. So - from where do you plan to source your rubber extrusion and coachlacing material for the door openings?? John.
J P Hall

John,

I purchased them probably 25 years ago. They have been patiently waiting for installation since. I suspect I purchased them from NTG. They are p/n J312 35.70 GBP per door. I believe Woolies offers the same materials: rubber seal p/n R123 and coach lacing p/n 306; each are 3.50 GBP per meter. Peter Vielvoye's article on refitting the seals (www.wmgccyregister.co.uk/technical-information/miscellaneous/bodywork-glass/fitting-new-door-draught-excluder/) doesn't mention how many yards/meters are needed, so I can't calculate which supplier would be cheaper for a full car set.

Rocky
Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

John

The details for Woolies (including their part numbers for the door rubber seal and fabric covers) are on their entry under http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/links.shtml#Coachwork

Paul
Paul Barrow

True enough Paul, but prohibitive freight costs, so I'm hoping I can find a more cost-effective supplier.
John.
J P Hall

Terry - did my email get through to you? John.
J P Hall

Sorry for the slow response John. Email now sent.
Good Luck
Terry
T J Ciantar

Rocky - I dug out my very original interior trim pieces and, like Terry's, no cup washers. I was surprised though to see on Terry's and on mine, raised head c/sunk phillips-head screws. I would have expected slotted head in 1949.
I should say also that Terry has replied in wonderful detail to my semi-hijack question about the door seals! Yours, John.
J P Hall

Hi all,
If you run a long tape measure around the inside of the doors the bit that's sits in the door opening you will get a rough idea of how much rubber and lacing you would need also if you stich the lacing to the rubber on one side it makes fitting so easy.one more tip when cutting rubber and lacing cut the lacing 4" longer than the rubber,when putting lace to rubber leave the 4" sticking out at one end which then can be connected when you get to the join making a stronger and neater join.
John YB0362
JC Jebb

Hi all,
just a quick comment on the windlace.
One length from NTG is sufficient for a YT I think. I purchased one, but haven't installed this, but from my measurements, it is OK. The YT has only two doors (at last count) , and the windlace only goes around the bottom half. ( whereas a Y needs 4 sets (lengths), one per door.)
cheers KGM
K G Mills

This thread was discussed between 15/01/2018 and 15/02/2019

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