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MG MG Y Type - Frazzled Cable Ends

I got myself a beautifully braided wiring harness for my YT. Even though, I also got a new special wire stripper for this type of cable, I find it very time consuming to strip (skin) the cabe ends to mount bullet connectors or sleves. The braiding frazzles/frays badly and most of the individual threads need to be cut away individually with a small paper knive - a very time consuming task.
Is there a trick of the trade to overcome this little problem, like using a drop of instant glue, befor starting to strip any such cable?

Cheers
Anton, YT 4220


Anton Piller

Anton
Before you cut the braid, wrap Sellotape/scotch tape around the end and cut through that.
After you cut the braid and the plastic below it, pull the braid back a little and cut a small piece of the plastic back a bit more.
Slide the braid (and tape) back over the shorter bit of plastic.
Insert into bullet and crimp.
Remove the excess tape showing outside the bullet.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Thank you Paul

That should do the trick

Anton
Anton Piller

Anton, why couldn't you have posted this topic a week ago, as last week I was having the same problem fitting bullets to the ends of my wires.

I have soldered the wires into my bullet ends. Had to buy a third (and fourth) hand appliance as I didn't have enough hands to hold the wire, solder, soldering iron and bullet.

Nearly all done now, now to test circuits to make sure everything works.
cheers
Stuart
Stuart Duncan

Easy, paint the ends you want to strip with clear nail varnish. Run a sharp knife around the braid and through the inner plastic, (careful you don't go too deep) not only will this allow you to strip back the outer braid and inner plastic without the braid fraying, it will also prevent the braid from fraying over time and, it will prevent dirt/oil/anything else from obscuring the colour of the braid in some of the more inaccessible places.
Hope that helps.
Dave
D P Jones

I find if you squeeze on the tool, then rotate it around a time or two it gets all the little strands of insulation.

What method are you using to get the oxide off the copper wire (once insulation stripped) so you can get the solder to stick well? Sandpaper, wire brush?
D mckellar

Gentlemen

Intitially, I also thought of soldering the bullets, but with an all new "made to order" wiring harness this proved to bee much to elaborate!
So it was back to Autosparks, Sandicare UK, who had given me outstanding service during the design/production and after the delivery of the harness. Apart from different bullets for different wire thicknesses, I ordered their bullet crimp tool and their raisor sharp braided cable stripper. Together with DP Jones' clear nail varnish trick, this gives very good and professional results.

By the way, If you use soldering liquid or "Solder Water" as we call it in German, you should not need to clean the oxide off the strands?!
Disclaimer: I have no personal ties or special interests with AutoSparks - I am just a happy customer of theirs.

Anton, YT4220
Switzerland

Anton Piller

Oh my Anton, solder watter is for solder type not appropriate for electronic connections. Rosin core solder will stay 100 years and no weep corrosion.
Stig Svenson

This thread was discussed between 25/01/2017 and 05/02/2017

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