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MG MG Y Type - Front Dampers

Hi All,
My next task on the YT is to rebuild the front dampers. They need new seals and a paint job! I have a spare set of dampers, which I plan on dismantling and perhaps rebuild these if they look ok.
When I took off the top cover of both, they appear to have a grub screw or pin that locks the cam to the shaft (see picture). They will need to be drilled out.
Is this standard - or a later addition? Is it likely to be a grub screw or pin through the shaft?
Secondly, the gap between the arm and the shock body is greater on one side than the other. Is the gap meant to be the same on both sides?
Thanks, Ewan


E.J. Ward

The grub screw is 3/16.(2ba?) There is a groove in the splined shaft so it is important to measure the up and down stroke before pressing out the shaft. It will be tight....The housing is imperial.. Seal sizes are .750x1,187x.250 on one end and .687x1.125x.250 on the other end. Two seals will fit in each end. I used 2 seals to be safe on each end.
Bob Wood

Ewan
Don't know if you know it or not , but only one arm will pull off the shaft--The other side is pressed on then flared to stop it moving so don't try pulling that one off--the seals are easy to find at your local bearing shop, the one on the side the arm pulls off of is the same as the gearselector shaft on a Honda Quadbike--must be the only imperial seal on the Honda-
You need to measure up the travel of the arm as in how far it drops and rises so that you get the centre block on the correct spline when you press the shaft back in.
I just had a rough measure of the gaps on my shocks, One has equal side gaps of roughly 90 thou. the other one has 90 on one side and around 115 on the other----hadn't noticed it till now but it'll make bugger all difference to the wheel alignment so it can stay like that
Have fun
willy
William Revit

look here

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-and-prewar-forum.46/mg-ya-no-1675-from-1948.4022768/page-17

made all 2 years ago
never been touched before
FT Franz

Ewan

Look on the Hints and Tips page of the site and you will find notes on both Front and Rear rebuilds.

Also on the Technical Data page there is a great original Girling booklet reproduced on how to do this too.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi, Thanks for your responses. I have now disassembled one of my spare dampers. I drilled out the grub screw then pressed out the shaft after making a jig to hold the damper in the shop press. The construction is now obvious! The larger end of the shaft is splined onto the arm and this arm remains attached. The smaller end is not splined and this is pressed out to remove the arm and detach the shaft spline from the cam. The shaft and the bushings were in excellent condition. Unfortunately the cam was cracked (see pic). This damper has been apart before so I don't think that the cam cracked due to my disassembly. I will keep working on the others and install new lip seals as recommended. Thanks, Ewan


E.J. Ward

The two arms on the shock absorber are a matched pair as I found out after stripping a few and mixing them up. The brand of seal I used was SEAGULL and I found a supplier on the net...
Bob Wood

This thread was discussed between 27/02/2022 and 01/03/2022

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