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MG MG Y Type - Fuel tank sender unit

Help please !!!

I am about to fit the sender unit in the fuel tank for the first time for many years, am I right in assuming the correct position is with the electric connection to the top of the tank, looking at the sender unit it could also go in 180 degrees round . I just don't want it to read full when its empty !!!!

Cheers chris
C A Pick

It fits so that the float is able to raise upwards as far as I can recall...raises as the amount of petrol in the tank increases.
D MULLEN

Yes I guessed that, but you can put it in upside down. So theoretically if you fit it upside down it will read empty when full and full when empty. The electrical connection can be at the top or the bottom when fitted. I have fitted mine to the top I just want to check that is the correct position , can someone check their car for the position ,top or bottom
C A Pick

Hi Chris

I thought I had posted on this last night ... but apparently not!!

The connection screw thread thing should be at the bottom and the float arm should have a bend in it that steps down from the fulcrum.

You may find that the arm needs to be slightly shortened in the application for a Y Type tank as it was originally made for the MG Magnette tank which is a different shape, size and configuration. Where did you buy it from please?

Paul
Paul Barrow

Sorry Paul can't help you, it is the original sender unit. which had been taken out of the tank as the tank was in poor condition. I have now fitted a new tank to the chassis and, from your information guessed wrong and fitted the sender upside down, O well back to the garage correct my error. Thanks for the info

Kind Regards Chris
C A Pick

As you say Chris the offset of the screw holes permits one of two positions. If it is any consolation I had to look at my YA when I was assembling my YT on this and a couple of other points.

As to my failure to post earlier - just getting old I guess!

Best wishes

Paul
Paul Barrow

I was just asked by someone else how to replace the unit and ensure that the arm is correctly set. Here is a copy of the notes I sent him.

Your biggest challenge is to get the old screws out without breaking the heads on them and that just takes days of trying them and using lots of easing oil. If you aren’t getting anywhere with that, then fill the tank with water (after blocking the outlet) and then you can use a propane heat gun on them. Do not do this without filling the tank FULL of water though to expel all the gas fumes! If you have to do this, do not fully remove the screws until you have all of them started … or you will have more leak holes!!

As to the arm shortening, mount the sender so it is set with the float arm facing out and the sender unit inside the tank, then you can play with the arm so that when it is fully down it should rest parallel with the bottom of the tank. Use a straight edge to assess this. Then raise it to the full position and check that it is just clear of the top of the tank. At those positions mark the arm, then remove it and shorten it as necessary.

Remember it is always easier to cut off than it is to cut on so if in doubt measure twice, cut once and cut small bits off at a time and recheck.

All pretty simple stuff. Just remember, the tank will have residual gas fumes in there ... even if you cannot smell them. Heating them up WILL cause an explosion so filling the tank with water is a MUST DO. If in doubt, take it to an expert ... and let them goof it up!

Paul
Paul Barrow

This thread was discussed between 18/04/2012 and 19/04/2012

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