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MG MG Y Type - Glass Carrier Query

Hi,

Have a look at the attached photo.....this item is attached to the front winding window glass carriers...it sits centrally on the bottom of the channel and corresponds with the 'stop' bracket for the window winder which is welded to the inside of the door....any idea what its function is ?

Is it just the 'stop' which meets the thick felt inside the door when the window is wound down.

If so is another example of serious over engineering

Rob

Rob King

If you look in the WSM Rob you will see that the wire is connected to it and the pulleys. Not over engineered, just the way the wire is set up.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi Paul,

Thanks for your response. I had studied the maintenance manual before asking the question.

I can see no images of the centre plate attached to the wires.

The text mentions 'two clamps' and a 'centre stop plate' which is why I had assumed that the centre feature was just a 'stop' but that does not account for the removable plate attached to it by two screws.

Still puzzled...

Rob
Rob King

Hi Rob

Knew I have covered this somewhere in the site already - just took me a while to find (problem with such a big site now!) but try this link.

http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/hints&tips.shtml#Window%20winder%20mechanism%20replacement%20-%20front

Where did you get your replacement window carrier from?

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the link but the articles it takes me to make no mention of the CENTRAL plate on the glass carrier.

So Im still in the dark.....

You can get new glass carriers from Mike Silk at the MGCC.

Rob
Rob King

Hi Rob, don't know if this is any use to you. I have attached WSM photo for prewar Morris 10. Similar window mechanism on front windows. Centre part on glass carrier does appear just to be a stop so that if cable breaks it does not disappear inside the door.

M C Bath

Reactivating - just fitted driver's side front door internals today, and the photo & comment from M C Bath (Mick I think) were spot on - the addition of the Centre Stop Plate keeps the window glass, when fully lowered, from going below the fuzzy draught excluders; and when you want to insert or remove the doorglass, you have to first remove the centre stop plate to create the extra room - as well as the other steps outlined in the WSM.
Fun Fact: it is unbelievably easy to do one of the tasks out of order, thinking it seemed like a good idea - and spend a ridiculous amount of time correcting your error.
Thanks MCB for the Morris photo - it showed me what I was about to do wrong.
John.
J P Hall

"remove the centre stop plate to create the extra room"
i got it in easy without taking this part away
look post 838
you only have to put the window in the the right direction, when i took it off i had made some pictures, so i knew how to put it in.

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-and-prewar-forum.46/mg-ya-no-1675-from-1948.4022768/page-56

there you have 1000 pictures of nearly eyery step

i have written all together in one story, because it was so difficult to find the information in the web.

some information here some there

some pictures from your car in the moment to see your progress ;-)
FT Franz

Good advice Franz - I should say it's not compulsory to remove the centre plate, it just gave me a bit more room to play with when inserting /removing the window pane. Your pictures did help confirm the best angle without too many trials and errors.
One thing I will comment on is the flexible window guide around the upper frame - I decided some time ago to salvage my originals, solely because they had the (perfectly good) polished stainless beading on inner and outer edges, and I could not in Australia find new equivalents.. I loved the originality, and the contrast of brightwork against body colour. I made mistakes - there were lots of gaps where the original rubbery sheath had long gone, and spiral metal skeleton was visible; I spent ages shrinking heatshrink on and then blading away the unwanted portion - fiddly, and a failure because the extra padding threw out the fit and finish. In the end I used black "Sikaflex" sealant to repair the threadbare sections, kept it to the original width of the channel walls, and got a pretty good result, preserving the original look which I value. Would I do the same again. - NO! I would try to find new channel, ideally with the stainless beaded edges; or, like you, settle for a perfectly good modern equivalent and accept it as a compromise.
We live and learn. Anyway, driver's side doors done, the ither 2 should be easy ...?
Yours,
John.
J P Hall

Still trying to fine - tune on the driver's side - the 2 clamps tend to bind with the top pulleys, on the last half-inch of the window's upward travel. The answer may be just to ease the clamp brackets back a bit - I'll wait 'til I can see in the morning. Otherwise all good. Franz you might be able to distinguish the renovated original guide beading in two photos; then two other progress shots for anyone interested.
John.




J P Hall

... progress!




J P Hall

This thread was discussed between 07/10/2014 and 20/04/2022

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