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MG MG Y Type - Gotcha Quiz

Have a look at this photo and tell me what is wrong !.

And I don't want you to say it is dirty - there is something peculiar !.

Right front wheel hub on YA1007.

First with the correct answer gets a prize.

A L SLATTERY

I would think the backplate is fitted upside down, but maybe that is a standard requirement on the southern hemisphere? ;-)
Willem vd Veer

Willem, the back plate is on correctly, but I think that the wheel cylinder is actually a rear wheel cylinder on the Y and Y/T and this is a front wheel. The offset cant of the wheel cylinder at the top (11 o'clock position) and the common shoe pivot point at the bottom (5 o'clcok) is required so that the brake bleed nipple is still at the top of the wheel cylindr (or as near as it can get) without fouling the front suspension.

The rear wheel cylinder on a Y and Y/T is a TC FRONT one so I am wondering if, at some stage, someone has fitted a TC front one on the front of this Y Tony. I think from memory, isnt the fornt Y,Y/T wheel cylinder somewhat slimmer than this?

Paul

Paul R Barrow

Well, I can confirm that it isnt the wheel cylinder now either as I have just been in the front brakes of a Y I have in for service currently.

Got me Tony, I am going to have to have another look at your picture!

Paul
Paul R Barrow

Where is the adjuster? On mine it is very visable.
Hawkflyer

Phil - they are both there - at either end of the wheel cylinder. It isnt that I dont think.

Paul
Paul Barrow

You can't trick me
The correct answer is

THERE ARE NO BRAKE SHOES ----- ha ha ha ha ha

Cheers Willy
William Revit

Paul was pretty close as the issue in question is the wheel cylinder position !.

The rear cylinders are right at the top, which makes bleeding the air from the cylinders very easy, as the bleeder is positioned in the middle of the cylinder at the highest point.

The fronts are a different story with the installation angle - a pocket of air is trapped above the bleeder hole which is below the highest point in the cylinder when installed at the "correct" angle.

The only way to remove this bubble is to jack the rear of the car as high as possible, and lower the front as low as possible, to level the wheel cylinder, they carry out the final bleed - you will be surprised how much air you get with that final bleed.

You can get "reasonable" brakes leaving those two little air bubbles in your brakes, but you will only get really good brakes by bleeding all the air out.

Willy is also correct - the brake shoes are missing !.

So the prize is mine - good brakes !!!!!
A L SLATTERY

Technically Tony there isnt anyting wrong - it is just difficult to bleed. It was designed that way as I mentioned so that it did not foul the king pin and could still be bled.

Would it work to have the trailing shoe all secured in place so that the trailing piston could not come out, then with the leading piston etc. removed and an assistant gently applying the brake to bring the fluid through and up to the wheel cylinder and filling the cylinder almost to over flow, and then put the piston in followed by the seal, spreader washer, spring and pusher? As this was all put in the assistant could maybe gradually let off the brake pedal releasing the pressure and the vacuum created by the pedal return would help draw the piston, seal etc in?

I have no idea whether this would work in practice ... but it was just something I am theorising while looking at the picture.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Thanks Tony, now I will never bleed the front brakes without thinking of you...

I would think that putting the car on a downhill slope would help, too? Uphill would be a struggle? ;-)
Willem vd Veer

This thread was discussed between 28/02/2012 and 05/03/2012

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