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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MG Y Type - Headlamp brackets

As many will already know, the 'mazak' brackets that secure the front wings and mount the headlamps corrode away. My YB has gone in to Brown & Gammons in Baldock for major work. They are to get these brackets re-cast in brass for me. Seems a good time for anyone else who needs them to contact B&G and get a set made from my 'originals'.

NC.
Neil Cairns

Years ago I had mine replated (after a fashion) quite cheaply - after having my grille done the plater agreed to do what he could with mine but it does not remove pitting etc and is a bit hit and miss as Mazak is not really 'replateable' - but just tidies them up a bit - if you are really stuck and skint try some aluminium or silver paint!
I imagine having new ones made is quite expensive?
David Mullen

Available from NTG - their stock nos are C809RY (right hand side) and C809LY (left). Price in their 2008/1 price list at £95 each (plus VAT in EU countries) and shipping. I have a pair ready to go on my YT resto that I am soing here and they are good.

What price are yours rocking out at please Neil?

Paul
Paul Barrow

Paul, thanks for that info re NTG having these in their catalogue. I never thought that bits like this would still be available anywhere.
One of mine has the lower bolt to the wing sheared off in the Mazak (not me, it was like that when I got the car!). I am going to try to drill it out & re-tap but I can see myself ending up needing a new bracket.
Neil doesn't say what his cost is, but if he can get half a dozen or so interested I think he'd be suprised how far the unit price would come down.

Tony
Tony Knowles

Hi Tony

It can be done - drilling out the old stud that is.

Go slowly once you get below the surface as they dont go in that deep.

Tips
1 - measure the depth of the other bolt hole (stick the drill bit in it) then put some red (or other color than black) insulating tape around the drill bit so that the edge of the tape closest to the point of the drill bit is level with the outer surface of the underside of the bracket. Use this as a visual for how far in your drill bit is cutting.

2 - try to get as dead center as possible in the stud remains using a small pilot drill bit first and gradually increasing the diameter of the bit.

3 - set the drill to the slowest possible speed = maximum cutting efficiency, and always use sharp drill bits.

4 - For the benefit of those safety freaks out there dont forget to wear your safety glasses (and while you are doing that dress up in a Fire Safe suit too without Asbestos!!).

5 - Good luck and have fun!

Paul
Paul Barrow

Paul
Thanks for those tips - will keep you informed on progress. Must get me an asbestos suit though!
I assume these brackets are the same for YA & YB's
(mine's a YA)

I forgot to say, for UK owners needing to replace the bar between these brackets through the radiator surround - the John Lewis store sells polished stainless steel curtain rail exactly the right OD - it's a nice push fit - at 1mm thick it is thinner than the original, but man enough for the job I think.

Tony K
Tony Knowles

Hi Tony

Common to YA/YT and YB ... but otherwise unique!!

NTG also do the bar. Those things are a nightmare to fit - look in Hints & Tips for a great tip from Alf Luckman on Removing the radiator the easy way. When I was fitting one recently I actually cut the original bar down in length slightly too. Either works.

If you do get an asbestos suit ... dont cry to me when you get asbestosis though hence my suggestion of a Fire Safe suit too without Asbestos!!

Cheers and be safe

Paul
Paul Barrow

I am into Trix Twin Railways in a small way and my pre war die cast wheels suffer from a similar problem as the head light mountings. It seems that the continuos change in tempereture works the material causing fatigue cracks to occur. I was advised to heat the wheels to blood temperature and immerse them in Araldite two part epoxy. It has worked and saved the wheels. I pass this on as a possiple help.
Bryan

Brown & Gammons are to have ten sets made.

NC.
Neil Cairns

This thread was discussed between 14/01/2009 and 22/01/2009

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