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MG MG Y Type - Heelboard Storage

Now that the rusted out sills have been replaced and painted, I am in the process of refitting all interior trim, including having to make the heelboard to the front of the rear seat of my YT.

I thought why not build 2 boxes for tools and spares to fit behind the Heelboard and under the rear seat. The heelboard would be made to clip onto the rear seat front edge.

In lieu of 40cm "Fixing Fillets" I will have 2 x 20cm pieces each side, so the boxes (130mm deep, 70mm high and 530mm long with 25mm runners) can side over and behind the Fillets. Boxes will have a vertical barrel bolt to stop them sliding forward. I will also extend the carpet to the rear of this space.

Has anyone previously created such boxes? If so can you please post some photos. Can anyone see any problems with this setup?

Stuart
Stuart Duncan

Looks like a good idea, Stuart! My only suggestion would be to wrap bits in the box in material, so they're not noisy.
Steve Brompton

Finally got around to making covers and fixing cupboard catches as per photo.

Seats are from what I do not know, and the carpet is just a cheap hardware variety.

When I get the ply pieces covered, I will make sure there is about 5cm flap on top edge which can go over metal edge and under seat base.

Rear tunnel carpet piece butts up against the ply and covers where the ply sits against the tunnel.

I dodn't make drawers as per original suggestion, just purchased plastic containers and cut them down to fit in space. There is enough road and wind noise to cover any rattling in the containers.

Stuart


Stuart Duncan

Hi Duncan,
This idea has merit. But I am a little bit lost over your explanation about the replacement of the longer cleat with two pieces?
Doesn't the lower cupboard catch obstruct the plastic tray where you have it? Could you house this clip in an inset in the cleat, maybe even screwing it to the floor board?
Do you propose "hinging" the ply kickboards on the vinyl flap that fits under the rear seat? If so, that seems a bit fraught to me. OR would you remove the rear seat to free the vinyl flap to access the storage space.
What I wondered about is having a narrow piece of ply fitted to the lip on the seat pan. That would be vinyl covered and the vinyl as you say would extend up and over the lip and under the seat.
Then the actual kickboard pieces would be inset slightly in the opening under the seat pan lip and the "permanently" fixed ply piece (above). The cleat at the bottom would also need to be set back slightly, I am thinking only 3~5mm. The kick board facing is still covered as you say, and could be fixed with the same type of fitment as you have used. Alternatively it could be hinged from the front of the cleat, at the level of the carpet, and swing forward. This affects the fit-up to the tunnel though. (At the outboard end, I have recessed the take up spools on my seat belts under the seat pan, so I'll have to work out just what happens there too.)

regards KGM
K G Mills

Hi KG

I went with a 2 peice kick board as my earlier one piece broke over the tunnel, due to my fitting and removing it multiple times.

Your idea of recessing the bottom clips is a good idea. I thought about hinging the boards from the seat base edge, but as the boards slip behind the side panels, I decided that idea wouldn't work.

My seat (although not original) just sits on top of the seat base, so when I fix vinyl to the boards, I just need to lift the seat front up and pull it out or slip the vinyl flap under the seat when replacing the heal boards.

My front lap seat belts attach to body just behind the seats at the doors and to new 5mm thick inner rails. I finally got them inspected a couple of days ago and have an Approval certificate and Modification plate (yet to fixed to car).
cheers
Stuart

Stuart Duncan

my tool storage is in the front above the battery
so i have all fast by my hands if i need a tool
behind the heelboard i will fix a loudspeaker on each side
FT Franz

This thread was discussed between 18/02/2017 and 06/10/2021

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