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MG MG Y Type - Installing a volt meter.

Positive earth YA: I'm keen to install a volt meter and wonder whether anyone has found one that can be persuaded to sit (and be read) in the "window" where the ammeter currently sits? Obviously it's easy to put a bracket somewhere, but since I plan to eliminate the ammeter (mainly for safety reasons), I want to look at any other options.
I do also have an Engine Guard installed, which I think can double as a voltmeter - but I prefer to watch the temp at all times!
Thanks for any thoughts. John.
J P Hall

I've always been a bit puzzled about why people find the idea an ammeter dangerous. I suspect it is based on a basic misunderstanding of electricity or, perhaps, it is the thought of having this item behind the dash which frightens some people? Yes, a lot more current flows through an ammeter than a volmeter as it carries all the vehicle's electrical current apart from that for the starter but that is hardly excessive in our cars and, besides, this current flows in other parts of the circuitry anyway. It is arguable that retro-fitting an ammeter with it's extra wiring carrying the full circuit could, theoretically, lead to a problem if not done properly but that does not apply here as the ammeter is already fitted. If this is a problem though it can be sidestepped by replacing the existing wiring with wiring of a higher capacity. The only possible questions I can come up with are around the integrity of the ammeter connections or ancient wiring both of which could overheat if things were less than perfect but they are easily checked if you are worried and, besides, if the wiring is that bad perhaps it needs replacing. Or does the problem lie, in this case, with the age of the existing instrument? If so I would suggest that rest of the ancient electrical equipment is equally suspect.

All of these problems can be circumvented, at least while unattended in the garage, by having a battery cut-off switch to put your mind at rest about any electrical malfunctions .

On the plus side you can tell more from an ammeter than a voltmeter. The current drawn just after starting, and how long it takes to settle down to a stady state of 1-2 amps, gives a much better indication of the health of the charging system and battery and can serve as an early warning of developing problems in a way that a voltmeter never can. I wish you luck in fitting a voltmeter into the existing housing though John as I suspect you will have problems with that.
Regards
Ian
ian thomson

Tending to agree with Ian---It's been ok for what, 75 years so why unfix something that's not broke.
William Revit

Fair comment, Ian - praps I should've clarified (per a recent discussion) that it was a new loom in 2022; my concern centres on the grub screw terminals which are clean but original. I had a similar set up in the TD which worked loose and gave m
e smoke and a big fright a few years ago. I totally agree that the amp meter gives a meaningful real-time account of how the charging system is behaving, and is best kept.
Is there a recommended upgrade of the grub screw arrangement? - I'm happy to improve the security there, and enjoy the benefits.
John.
J P Hall

...and in further news, I can confirm that my Engine Guard display unit, which I installed for accurate real-time temperature info, also has a voltage function, a simple wire to control box Earth in my case, so I can toggle from engine temp to voltage readout pretty easily. SO - it looks as though the best course is to use the Engine Guard as my voltage checker, and keep the benefit (and originality) of the ammeter. I'd still be keen to know what folk do to improve the security of the grub-screw type terminal. So far I've typically tinned the bare wire and used a dob of Loctite on the threads.
John.
J P Hall

I used to solder the ends of wires in screw terminals, until an "old school" auto electrician said it was a sure-fire way for the wire to come loose. He explained the solder is too hard to bend by the screw knob, and the screw will eventually work loose.

Another one of those things not mentioned in school or the workshop manual...

Cheers

Tony
A L SLATTERY

Not sure I agree with that Tony-
Yes I agree soldering wires together isn't ideal as the solder wicks up the wire and if there's any movement the wire breaks at the weakest point at the end of the solder---but--I've always tinned the ends of wires going into screw connectors--First reason, it stops the end of the wire fraying and second reason the screw appears (to me) to get a better hold/spread on the wire. I'm not talking a giant blob of solder just a finely tinned wire end-

willy
William Revit

I had heard/read that somewhere, Tony - the idea that the wire strands can be pinned quite well by the grub screw. After the incident with the TD about 10 years ago, I've joined the Tinners and Loctiters. Sounds like a social club!
Do you use the voltage function on your Engine Guards? I know you're a fan. John.
J P Hall

This thread was discussed between 14/06/2026 and 29/06/2026

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