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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MG Y Type - Longer bolt

I have had an early 1960s new old stock 'REDeX Car Care Robot' (a vacuum gauge)which I want to fit it to my YB. It connects via a plasic pipe to a brass connector threaded into an insulating block that fits between the carb and the manifold - in this way it acts not only as an insulator (good thing) but allows the connection to the gauge. Trouble is that the block is 1/4 thick so that the bolts connecting the carb to the manifold are too short. Anyone know what type of bolt they are and if slightly longer ones can be obtained?
D MULLEN

When you say bolts, do you mean the threaded studs. Wouldn't the ones fitted to a T type be suitable as they are long enough to allow an insulating spacer to be fitted. Try Moss 328-810.
R A WILSON

That particular stud (328-810) is a 10 X 1.5mm thread and should work for the application. See the Chart, Fasteners for XPAG/XPEG Engines in the Other Tech Articles on my web site at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Dave's excellent chart is also on the Technical Data page of the Technical Centre suite at www.mgytypes.org.

David Pelham has a source for longer studs (to replace the bolts) for your Y carburettor manifold too.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Thanks for the help and links - my carb has bolts attaching it to the manifold for some reason - these pre date my ownership so they have been there since 1980 at least - I must check that they are the same thread as the studs that should be there.
D MULLEN

David,

Bolts WERE the original correct fitment for holding the carb in place. The STUDS and nuts that David P has access to ARE the correct original pitch thread etc. Contact him (see Contact Us on www.mgytypes.org) to confirm.

Paul
Paul Barrow

I've installed a Redex car care robot only a few weeks ago. I slept two nights over the decision of making a hole in the original dashboard. Finally I decided to go for it. With trembling hands I yielded the drill, but now it is fitted it looks nice. Even if my 10-year old son (rightly) commented not being exactly in the middle and not straight. So I still have some filing to do.

The vacuum is provided by a neat little pipe that was tapped into the inlet manifold, right behind the carburettor. It is specially made for vacuum-diagnosis because in the pipe there is (was) a fine threaded screw in it when not in use.

The vacuumgauge can tell a lot about the engine, mixture and ignition. I know the valveguides are worn and it is confirmed by the swinging gauge at tickover...
W. van der Veer

My 'REDeX Car Car Robot' is working well and shows about 18-20 mm Hg at idle with no obvious faults showing up. I am just getting used to it. It came with full instructions. I managed to buy it for £5 on ebay a while back (it was 'new' and still in the box. It came with an insulating gasket (about 1/2 in thick) which goes between the carb and manifold and which already had a brass 'take off' point for the flexible tubing going to the gauge. Quite possibly this was bought separately from the gauge as the original brass fittting for the manifold was still there.I used longer bolts to fit the carb to the manifold. I thought about fitting it to the dashboard but as the gauge came with a supplied bracket I fitted it to the underside edge of the wooden dashboard with two screws. Looks great but I may at some stage fit it directly in the dash centre too for ease of viewing. See photo attached.

D MULLEN

My last comment should have said..... "insulating gasket (about 1/4 in thick)...".

It's not 1/2 inch thick!
D MULLEN

My dail looks earlier than yours, see photo attached. If you can please send me a scan of the "full instructions". to vdveery5888 at online.nl (at is @ of course)

W. van der Veer

Yes, yours is the early 1950s version - it was updated to the later style (see my photo)in the late 50s/early 60s but both work on the same priciple - as per my e mail to you off the BBS will send full details as soon as I can get the instructions etc copied.
D MULLEN

This thread was discussed between 27/06/2009 and 08/07/2009

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