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MG MG Y Type - pedal box reassembling

Hi
the reassembling of MG YA 1675 going on
next step is the pedal box
today i have tested to insert the shaft through the chassis
works perfect , no play
the brake master cylinder ist cleaned and all rubbers are new
so i want to reassemble the box tomorrow
what is the best way to do it,
in what position should the brake pedal be
and the clutch pedal too
the brake switch, insert before all other parts?

have read this here before
https://www.mgccyregister.co.uk/brake-and-clutch-pedal-box/
FT Franz

I would check the condition of the shaft and chassis bushes carefully Franz. Mine were awful and needed replacing. If you do this I would recommend fitting the modified shaft available from the usual suppliers which can have grease pumped through it for lubrication. It is costly but worth the money. As for the assembly order I took notes and photos on removal but still got it wrong. Trial and error is necessary especially if you fit the spacers to eliminate any side play and avoid the interference between the brake and clutch pedals. The TUV won't like them both moving when only one is pressed. This is arguably the worst job on the car. It is certainly the most fiddly and uncomfortable. It can be improved a little by fitting a hydraulic brake light switch to replace the unreliable and difficult to adjust mechanical item.
regards
Ian
ian thomson

really no play, so i can fit all without new bushes.
have also made a lot of picture, but it was so dirty that you can t see anything
found the part for hydraulic switch
but will see how the old one fit
here a link for a easy asembling hydraulik switch

https://ccparts.nl/product/stoplight-switch-kit-7-16-20/?add-to-cart=23540

there are only a few pictures on the web
I have already published over 600

FT Franz

is it possible to make a grease nipple in the old shaft ?
I would have to make the spiral with a metal file
would not have to walk the whole length as with ntg
better than what it is now
grease nipple left or right side in driving direction ?
FT Franz

Franz

The grease nipple should be on the right hand side opf the chassis.

I attach a photo of how I fitted the stop switch.

rgds, Anton

Anton Piller

Franz & Anton,
Have you viewed the Pedal Shaft modification pages on T Talk website http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftRHD.html or http://www.ttalk.info/PedalShaftDelk.htm

Stuart
Stuart Duncan

the construction is different with ya,
the brake pedal is located outside of the chassis and transmits its force via the toothed shaft to another part, which in turn sits on a gear and presses the lever of the main brake cylinder, so it is firmly connected, the lubrication should be in the chassis frame, if you look at the shaft at ntg you can see the difference, only the clutch pedal slides on the shaft.
so i will order two long 3,2 mm hss drills to make the hole in the middle, have to see if i have the tap to make the grease nipple thread.
the spiral grove
in the chassis section i will make with a metalfile better a bad grove as no grove
better a little bit grease
as no grease there

???

the 7:16-20 dual brass union i don t get anywhere
in the neatherland it is so expensive ;-(

it should be possible to make a break stop swith in the banjo bolt
something like this here
https://ccparts.nl/product/banjo-bolt-1-2-20unf-d15l30-hex21-id1-8-27npt/

but what is the thread size there?

where can i find the thread size of all screws in the car, in the manual not all are there
also ntg has not thread size...

or take this here, in the correct size
https://ccparts.nl/product/banjo-bolt-3-8-24-d10l31-hex14/

or take the original banjo and make a thread in the head
????
FT Franz

Franz
I will admit I haven't done any work on the YT's pedals as they have little sideways movement. I did however do the modification on my TD's pedal shaft, to ensure I do not need to touch it again.

I should organise and get an end of shaft cover from Paul.

All the best with your restoration, you are putting alot of work into it.
cheers
Stuart
Stuart Duncan

took me 2 hours
but happy with the solution
the clut pedal works perfect and if it is damaged i could do the same there
some money saved for other things ;-)

you need something printed in ABS ?
ask me
or small parts in resin





FT Franz

here a picture with the working grease nipple
i will see how it works when the car is back on the roaf again
FT Franz

Franz

Do you have the end cover for the grease nipple? Consider buying a kit from https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/stores/yzpublications.shtml#MGYT

Paul
Paul Barrow

thx for the advice
i have weld my rusty part ;-)

but i also have two 3d printers ( FDM + SLA Resin ) in my garage
and i learned freecad in the last years
so i have designed some parts and printed them

cjr3 case for my TA, so i have a modern electronic in an original like case
some individual spark plug holders

a MG ring for the finger in Resin

designed a holder for the rear of the rear leaf spring
i think most cars have a lot of rust there
i cut both away and weld this new one in there
fits perfect

the second one doesn t look so bar, but after cutting it away i was happy haven t done it, much more rust as could be seen before, it was not expensive, could sell some for about 30 Euro per part (perhaps)

i write a story about hte car ins the mgexp phorum, was there before i got the YA and i can upload 4 pictues there, now 640 pictures !


FT Franz

Hi All,
I myself would not grease the shaft but
use an oil gun with care, with that long shaft and the fact it won't be done that often there is a good chance of the grease solidfying and once that happens you will not move it. If oil is good enough for the steering rack im sure it is for c/pedal
John YB0362
JC Jebb

you mean this here

never opend this building in 48 ?!

FT Franz

Hi Franz,
Don't understand your last posting ??
John YB0362
JC Jebb

i don t understand it too ?????


it was a horrible job today
the pedal box

next time i would paint the pedal box inside in silver
so you have more light
in black you see nearly nothing

but step by step
make it with the body on the chassis i don t want to do it again

1.take the 3 screws you need to fix the master cylinder and put it through the hole, the head should be inside the box
2. take the master break cylinder and fix it with the screws, tricky
3. take the lever with the spring and hold it in the inside of the box in correct postion
4. hang the front of the spring to his position in the front of the box
5. look to the picture, the bolt must fix the lever to the fork, i had big problems to hit the hole of the lever, after 10 minutes of frustration i took a screew and hit the hole from the other side, now the lever is in the correct position and it was easy to hit the hole with the bolt
6. got the advice to make a grove to the bolt, but it was easy for me to fix the security bolt, so i haven t done it.
7 take the shaft and put the lever on it, but don t pull it in total only a little bit
8, take the clut pedal and put it on the shaft too
9. pull the shaft in total
10. you should have a little play ( 1,5mm) otherwise you have to take a washer
11. secure the shaftwith the spring ring

step by step
for me if i have to do it in future again, or other MG freaks who have to do this job

15 MINUTES IF YOU HAVE DONE IT 3 TIMES; THE FIRST TIME AND YOU DON T KNOW WHAT STEPS TO DO 1 or 2 HOURS
AND A LOT OF FRUSTRATION

WITH THE BODY ON THE CHASSIS YOU NEED 4 HANDS AND A LIFT
or a lot of nerves and luck

now one part is missing again
the stop light switch is cleaned and looks perfect, so i will fit it again,
but where is this little spring





FT Franz

Definitely a job for small fingers! I hated when I had to work in it!

Paul
Paul Barrow

i dont find this small spring for the break light switch
i had it in my fingers some weeks ago
but where is it

so i think to change to one easyer way
i will fit the old cleaned switch inside at the correct position
but the switch will sit outside
i found this solution, i like it
i made a fast and dirty 3d drawing

i want to take something like this here
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Universal-Bremslicht-Taster-Offner-M10-Kontakt-Schalter-KFZ-LKW-PKW-Turkontakt/133111341308?hash=item1efe0de0fc:g:sLQAAOSwdtBdKgKf

will cost only some euros and can be changed easy if damaged

i will use the old screw holes in the chassis and make a new box for all

will use spring steel for the switcher

the hydraulik switch will cost 100 euro and will be under the car, more difficult to reach if problems.

with this solution
you spent less money
you can check it easyly
you get a new box , the old one is mostly damaged
you can find and use other switches, only change the holder


????





FT Franz

the first solution

1 hour of thinking and working
how can the new universal braking switch look like
the holding plate will use the old holes in the chassis and is zink plated, so all can be changed without problems to original
i will print the cover box in black ABS so rust will never be a problem inn future, it will be closed on the bottom

here some pictures from the first prototyp
Have to order the switch and then finish the job when the body is back on the chassis so that i can see where the wire can be run, have a good idea for this but will see if it will go

I will use spring steel to make the stylus

you like it?





FT Franz

here a picture how it looks like

2 screws to fix the cover, so really easy to look to the switch if something wrong

FT Franz

i found a switch from an old projekt
only for 1 wire so i have to use a relay
but easy build so no problems in future

so i will take a relay with a fuse inside
i think a really good solution

i tested the switch in position and it works perfect
so i don t have to buy one

the battery box is more then high enough
so a lot of room for modern electric stuff on the floor of the box

or inside on the wall of the box
somewhere i can reach the parts easyly

have to think about it

FT Franz

when i cleaned the rear brake parts i found a 4 way union there, one hole closed with a screw
taken of the screw and found 1 3/8 bsf thread
with some brass out the garage i made a adapter
for a hydraulic brake light switch

M10x1 is really cheap so i will buy it
and use it

in this position i can take the original wire that goes to the switch and not to the break light




FT Franz

the cable for the clutch is ok but the rod is the better solution
one owner before has made a rod for the top
i made one for the bottom today
was easy to make it
and works perfect

so here 2 solutions i can change
and for the brake swith 3 solutions

and getting better with my lathe with every part i make by myself




FT Franz

Nice work.

Paul
Paul Barrow

perhaps someone needs some fine fule line holders
;-)
have made a 3d drawing so you can order it as a laser cutter service

my new one are from polished stainless steel

here are some more pictues

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-and-prewar-forum.46/mg-ya-no-1675-from-1948.4022768.4259298/page-35#msg-4259298




FT Franz

This thread was discussed between 20/11/2020 and 09/12/2020

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