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MG MG Y Type - Radiator boiling over

I took YT 2559 out for a run on Saturday. I have a temperture gage on to top of the radiator. I saw a litte red, but it did not get in the danger area. After the 30 minute drive, I parked it in the driveway. After the car was off, fluid was still boiling out of the car. Is this normal? Is there anyway I can re-pipe the anti freeze back in the radiator?

Thanks,

Jim
J Spears

Jim

The late Alf Luckman came up with an inenious solution - see http://www.mgcars.org.uk/imgytr/hints&tips.shtml#Radiator_expansion_tank however, the cooling system on a Y uses a non-pressurized thermo syphoning system. After shutting off the engine, the radiator will pop like a coffee percolator for a short while and this is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about, just keep it topped up. Alf's solution is more applicable in the Australian heat - something we on our latitude of Washington and Illinois do not (thankfully) have to experience.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Jim,
When I had Y7207, I fitted a similar tank to Alf's, because after filling the radiator, it tended to throw out some of the water when hot. However, although the pipe went to the bottom of the tank, the stystem never seemed to suck back the overflow, even when I put a seal on the radiator cap.

My tank was simpler than Alf's as I do not have his obvious skills to make the knurled brass cap.

Picture attached. If you want details, and instructions that Alf sent me, email me.

Michael



Michael Nicholson

Hello Jim. I got word a few days ago that a friend finally found the overheating problem on his Y. This is after changing water pumps, thermostat, pulling the head to check for cracks or blown head gasket and changing the timing numerous times. He found that his distributor, which checked out fine on the distributor tester, was not advancing when the car got hot. This is the first I've heard of this, the guy is an old hand at MG's, he hadn't seen it either. Something to keep in mind when tracing a persistant overheating problem.

Butch Taras
VMG
Glendale, CA.
R Taras

The cooling water should never boil in a Y-Type, and I drive mine HARD. If you can hear it burbling after you switch off, something is wrong.

My YT will not boil in summer in bumper to bumper traffic or on the highway - the fuel will vapourise before the water boils - modern fuel boils at 70 degress centigrade - 30 degrees before the water does.

Butch is quite correct on timing - it has to be right, all across the rev range or uncontrollable heat will be generated.

I have also fitted a temp gauge just below the thermostat, so know exactly what is happening with engine temp under all loads - well worth the few dollars. I also only use bypass thermostats - if you don't know what a bypass thermostat is - do your homework and find out, and get one !.

cheers

Tony

A L SLATTERY

Tony,

One issue I have is that YT 2659 will run at 2,200 RPMs while idling. When I start her she is at 1,400 RPM. After a 20 minute romp, she will jump to 2,200 RPM. Any thoughts on whats going on here?

Thanks,

Jim
J Spears

Either the carburettor is sticking - possibly the piston? Have you ever removed the top of the carburettor? If so, they are sensitive as to which way round the top is fitted and if it is fitted 180 degrees off then the piston may stick against the sides of the top. I am, of course, presuming that you have the correct big SU spring in there too.

You can check the piston for easy rise and fall by removing the air cleaner pipes and lifting the piston with your finger - it should fall back into position smoothly and go all the way to the bottom. If it does not then it is either sticking on the side wall or the needle is bent or not centered properly.

Another cause could also be timing on your distributor not resetting itself as Tony has mentioned.

Paul
Paul Barrow

This thread was discussed between 15/05/2012 and 21/05/2012

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