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MG MG Y Type - Radiator support

Had to crank the car this morning as the battery was dead. The dog bolt doesn't line up quite centered in the crank hole but it's close enough to engage the handle. It rubs the top of the bumper as I crank but not badly.

While I was cranking I heard a slight cracking sound which I determined was simply flex in the large bracket supporting the weight of the radiator and which also has the guide hole for the crank as it passes below the radiator. Well, there must have been significant flex as I pulled up on the crank handle because I now have a small pool of coolant on the ground.

Granted this radiator is 50 years old and according to the thorough maintenance logs kept for the car, it has never been serviced. Looking inside certainly supports that theory! But still, should there be that much flex in the metal? It seems quite sturdy in itself. Or should the crank not even touch the bracket at all?

On a side note, hours earlier was my first time crank starting a car. It's fun!
Steve Simmons

Steve - Since the Y series and the T series radiators and engines mount the same, I think that I can safely say that your engine is probably mounted a bit high, causing the misalignment with the starting handle hole in the radiator support bracket. This is not all that uncommon a happening. As I recall, the front motor mounts from Moss are thinner than the originals and ned to be shimmed up to get the engine in proper relation with the hole in the support bracket. In your case, it sounds like someone got the front of the engine a bit high, causing your problem. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

The front mount appears to be seperated. The engine definately looks high to me. If it were properly aligned would the crank still contact the guide hole?

Seperate note... if I need a new radiator core, would an MX core be appropriate or should I look for a more authentic one? Thanks!
Steve Simmons

Steve - If the mount is seperated, that is probably your problem. Once the engine is aligned properly, the starting dog on the crankshaft pulley should line up with the guide hole so that there is minimal contact betweent he crank and the edges of the guide hole - it definitely should not have to be forced into the starting dog.

If the radiator core needs replacement, I would go to a shop that will get a Modine replacement. I have never had to replace my core on the TD yet, so I don't know for sure, but Modine seems to have the correct cores for most other MGs.
Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Steve

The correct alignment in rad height should give you enough thread on top for the rad cap filler nut at the top to have about 1/4 inch clearance when fully tightened down.

By the DOG bolt, I presume you mean the one on the crank pulley at the bottom front of the engine. This should be in a staight line with a guide hole at the bottom of the rad, the hole in the front of the chrome shell and the guide on the front bumper (I am assuming you have all including the guide on the front bumper / fender?)

There should be no contact with the bumper as the guide should give you ample clearance to swing the handle with ease.

When you say you "have a small pool of coolant on the ground" are you certain this has come from the rad? It is well worth checking as it is possible that the force you excerted on the engine front to crank it (rather than on the rear where the starter is located) may have dislodged the hose from the Y branch pipe going to the bottom of the rad. These Y branch pipes rust like they are made from newspapers and crumble at the bottom end. This can then result in a very tenuous join with the hose going to the bottom of the rad. The resultant leak will give you the same result and it is a hell of a lot easier to replace this pipe than dismantle the front of the car to get the rad out and back in again!

General tip to all crankers - When cranking any engine - always have your thumb over the top of the crank handle (going the same way as your fingers are gripping the handle) not underneath it. This will avoid a very painful fracture of the scaphiod bone in your hand.
Paul Barrow

I don't have the guide on the bumper. Is this one necessary? I always figured it was more for looks than function. Or is it to prevent scratching the bumper? Thanks for the tips. I'll check that lower hose connection today but I'm fairly positive it came from the lower radiator tank.
Steve Simmons

You need the bumper guide, or the handle cannot rotate acurately. There is a danger of damaging the bottom radiator tank.

Neil.
Neil Cairns

I'm missing the bumper guide, too. I would like to make one, can somebody mail me a picture or drawing with the dimensions?

Willem
Willem van der Veer

"There is a danger of damaging the bottom radiator tank"

Well that explains things. :/
Steve Simmons

This thread was discussed between 30/11/2003 and 01/12/2003

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