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MG MG Y Type - Re-fitting the sump

I am refitting the sump on my car - do I stick the gasket to the block (I have renewed the front and rear oil seals) or to the sump? I previously had it stuck to the block it being easier, but a pain to remove. Also I have replaced the seal at the timing cover end (is it asbestos - or are modern ones a substitute material??) - how much do I leave past the edges and how do i best trim it and how far. I suspect the new seals are not quite like original ones as they took a bit of fitting, particularly the cork one.
D MULLEN

David

Fitting the cork gasket is a total pain but critical to obtaining a good seal.

Equally important, though often overlooked is the cutting and fitting of the sump gasket.

I say cutting and fitting because cutting is critical. You must cut the gasket exactly as indicated in the workshop manual i.e. in line with the inside edge of the gasket where the two sides are joined by the tabs. If you cut the tabs too short, throw the gasket away and buy a new one as the tabs are designed to butt up to and onto the cork gasket. If they are short, you WILL get a leak.

As to the timing cover, once the cover is on the front and in place ... provided they have sent you the right one (I believe the TA/TB timing cover was slightly different wasnt it??) there shouldnt be much of an overlap. If there is I am wondering have you got it the right way round - it is like putting paper back in a copier to do the back side - there are four ways you can feed the paper in ... but only one will give you the proper back to back image. If the gasket isnt fitting nicely to the contours of the outside of the timing cover ... you have to ask is it fitting nicely on the inside! If it isnt, it wont seal. If it is, then once mounted you can trim it to the contours of the outside of the cover against the block.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Thanks paul for the info - do you know if it matters whether I stick the gasket to the block or the sump - the manual says put sealant on the sump face and fit it. I must admit I stuck it to the block last time. With the cork seal the final small gap between it and the sump gasket closes up when you tighten the sump I am told. Regarding the asbestos seal at the timing cover end it fits OK but is a bit long in that it sticks out at either end so I know it must stick out a little amount to compress etc but how much over should it be - trimming it is a bit difficult as it is fibrous and fluffy at the ends. Cutting it also leaves material to fall into the garage which if its asbestos I want to avoid.
D MULLEN

David

When I rebuild I use semi-permanent gasket seal to put the gasket on the sump. This is to prevent the gasket sliding around - especially useful if you are fitting the sump to the block with the engine still in the car. You then have to be very careful getting the front sump bolts in place and torqued.

To prevent the block grabbing the gasket in case the sump ever needs to be removed, I then coat the block face with a film of non-setting/hardening pipe dope. That way the gasket doesnt shread or seperate if after a couple of months or years running you need to get the sump off. Dont know what the UK equivalent is so cant recommend anything in particular. A film of Vaseline would probably work just as well though.

That amount of asbestos wont harm you so dont worry about that - its really only if you are working with the stuff every day. Just let it settle on the floor then vacuum it up. Home mechanics arent in that much danger from asbestosis, besides I dont think it is permitted to use it now in the cosntruction of parts ... so unless you have a very old one ...!!

Paul
Paul Barrow

David Throw that rubbish string front seal away and fit the Volvo oil seal. It is easy to fit and set in silicone gasket sealent is oil tight. Although my YA is far from roadworthy yet, I have found it 100% oil tight on my TF after a 2 thousand miles. To minimise rear leakage I run the sump just over half full.
B Mellem

Volvo Oil Seal- would you please like to remind us of the details of the Volvo Seal. Size, part No. etc. Thanks
Keith D Herkes

I have refitted the sump now - never knew of the Volvo oil seal at all..oh well maybe next time! By the way I bought a sump set from MGOCC - it was all OK except the 2 half seals were much too big - the MGOCC sent me 2 replacement ones (half seals) and these fitted perfectly so take care if you are fitting these old type ones that you have the correct type/size. I presume that the suppliers to MGOCC had erred with the original ones in the sump set?
D MULLEN

I'm know that B&G have these oil seals and I think NTG, they are simple to fit but the sump and timing cover must be ready prepared. Once the silicone sealent is applied reassemble and refit the pulley so that the seal aligns itself to the pulley shaft. Let it all set and bobs your uncle! I dont know why the seal is not included with the sump gasket set anyway. You will never again darken another threshold
B Mellem

This thread was discussed between 06/12/2009 and 10/12/2009

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