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MG MG Y Type - Rear brake binding-. any thoughts?

Does anyone have sight of a rear drum pull-off spring for the YA? (This is the long spring that sits under the hydraulic cylinder and is attached at both ends to the brake shoes). If so, what's the length of the spring when it's not under tension?

The reason I ask is that I've had a persistent problem with binding brakes on the rear RH side... and it's not hydraulic (I've re-sealed the wheel cylinder) or a brake line problem (problem only occurs on the RH wheel, so it's not a collapsed flexible hose, which would affect both wheels).

I'm beginning to suspect either brake pistons sticking in the wheel cylinder (unlikely as the pistons are in good condition, well-greased and clean behind new outer seals) or the brake pull-off spring not quite doing its job. Hence my question about pull-off spring length.

I don't suspect handbrake issues as the cables and operating mechanism behind the brake shoes are all operating freely, and there's no sign of drag when releasing the handbrake. (The MoT rolling road confirmed this).

Have I missed something here? Once again, I'd welcome the wisdom of fellow Y-typers everywhere....



Tim Griggs

I assume you are using dot4 or similar, try running your finger inside the cylinder, there may be slight ridges of solid fluid deposits which can be removed by rubbing 600 grade W&D inside the cylinder. Do this in a rotating motion. This problem seems to happen if the car has been under used.
B Mellem

My RH rear brake dragged and I cured it with a new brake hose to replace the collapsed old one. I know that hydraulically that doesn't add up, but maybe my LH brake was frozen?

My wake up call came when fluid squirted out when I loosened the nipple, without anybody standing on the brake pedal, indicating a collapsed brake hose.

I would replace the rear brake hose if it hasn't been replaced recently.
Willem vd Veer

If your springs are weak they may not be pulling the shoes off the drum.

Neat thing is that NTG sell both springs for the rear ... and for the front. So I would look there first off. If you have one weak spring then the others may not be far behind and I would say do the lot - front and rear.

Paul Barrow

Tim, your springs should be 163mm from hook to hook, and they should be cranked as in the photo below, and hooked into the handbrake lever.

Are you sure you have a "pair" of shoes - look carefully - I have seen many mis-matched pairs over the years.

Both of the springs in the picture are 163mm - what length are yours ?.

Happy hunting


You did say that the hand brake was free, I found that the lever needs some 3 notches to apply full braking, that adjusting too tight ie 1 notch did not release the brake correctly.
B Mellem

Yep - Bryan is absolutely on the mark there, with properly adjusted shoes operating in clean drums (so check all of that too) parking brake should be 3 notches and it shoud stall the car at idle. A UK MOT Tester taught me that trick!

Paul Barrow

I don't know if you solved the problem of rear brake binding Tim, but I came up against a similar problem myself after re lining the shoes. After checking the snail cams, cylinder pistons, and slacken right off the hand brake, the drums were still tight. I then noticed that the brake shoes had not fully retracted. This I traced to the hand brake horizontal linkage inside the rear brake was restricting full travel of the shoes. The image is of this linkage. It seems to me that the new pattern linings may be just a little thicker, so by filing about 1/16" from the area marked by the arrow I got full brake shoe travel right up to the stops. The drums now rotate freely both sides. Bryan

B Mellem

This thread was discussed between 22/09/2012 and 25/10/2012

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