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MG MG Y Type - SPAX SHOCKERS OR SIMIILAR FOR REAR AXLE

This may have been covered before or is part of a technical report that I have not read.

Any thoughts would be welcome.

I have noticed that the rear suspension on the YT is rather spongy. I have checked the leaf springs and they are all intact but no doubt over 60 years they will have sagged!

The shockers are topped up and are function - though perhaps their refurbishment would be a step forward.

What about the practicality of fitting a complementary set of modern pillar' shockers?

On my TA the existing suspension had been replaced with pillar suspension struts on the rear. This worked well and provided a stiifer ride but otherwise very effective over the 30k+ miles that we covered during our 13 years of ownership. These were a simple arrangement, similar to thise found in early minis.

I wonder if a pair of spax shockers, which are adjustable would be worth considering on the rear of the YT. Whilst I can get the existing shockers rebuilt and/or new springs fitted this would mean that the car would be off the road whilst they were being upgraded. I want to use the car so this is why I am considering additional modern damping arrangements that could be removed in the future!

Thoughts, comments and suggestions welcome.

Thanks

Jerry
J P BIRKBECK

Hi Jerry,
I have telescopic shocks fitted on the rear and front of my YT. I use shocks designed for Ford Escort Mk1 & 2 rear suspension, as the travel length matches that of the Y, and they have an eye bush at both ends. I use standard shocks. I had thought of adjustable, but found the standard Escort shocks delivered a perfect damping rate for the Y on the front and rear.

The brackets are all bolted in, so can be removed to return the car to original specification, quite quickly. The original front shocks have the valves removed, while the rears are removed complete, so the brackets can use the mounting holes.

cheers

Tony
The Classic Workshop
A L SLATTERY

Thanks Tony that's really helpful. Do you by any chance have a photo showing their fitting at front and rear please?
I'll go online and order a set.

Once again your suggestions are very much appreciated.

All the best

Jerry
J P BIRKBECK

Jerry

Have you read Richard Prior's article on this - http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/specialys/yt3208.shtml?

Paul
Paul Barrow

and this one: http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/specialys/y6486.shtml
Willem van der Veer

Here are photos of the front design I copied.

The rear design was a modified version of Richard Priors design - must draw it up one day for the website.

A L SLATTERY

And the top mounting at the front, I also modified from the picture. The vertical tubes I made as long nuts to retain the standard shock bolts at the bottom (tapped 3/8" BSF), and tapped at the top to suit bolts passing through the horizontal bar.

These shocks front and rear really improve the roadholding & safety.

A L SLATTERY

Thanks Tony

I have downloaded both Richard and Giles' articles.
Interestingly Giles used mini shockers whereas you opted for Mark 1/2 Escort shockers. The latter are more widely available and I have seen a new pair of rears for UK £24
The fronts are retailing from £30.

One of the advantages of Ford parts is there ready availability in the UK.

I will arrange for a local fabricator to prepare a set of fittings using Richard and Giles drawings. Also I will order new U Bolts and fittings from Octagon. Aiming to sort the job out over the next 2-3 weeks.

Thanks for all your guidance much appreciated.

All the best

Jerry
J P BIRKBECK

Apologies to Gilles Bachand for misrepresenting him as Giles!
J P BIRKBECK

I used the Escort shocks because their operating length just exceeded the Y-Type suspension travel arc - if you use Mini shocks you need to reduce the Y-Type suspension travel by putting in extra bump stops or the shocks become the limit which they are not designed for.

I also picked Escort because they were sold in many parts of the world and the shocks can still be bought.

The eye bush at each end makes bracketing easier too.

This was the front shock setup on one tourer I encountered - welded to the chassis - nasty !.

And the brake hose was at it's limit too !!!!.

Tony
The Classic Workshop

A L SLATTERY

Hi Jerry et al,
A few words of advice before you jump into this project. First you need to measure the amount of travel you have in your rear suspension. You need to measure the distance between the bottom of the axle tube and the bottom bump stop and the distance between the top of the axle tube and the upper bump stop. the total of these is the amount of travel your car has. Or do as Gilles did and lift the chassis so the axle rests on the bottom bump stop and measure the gap at the top. This figure will determine the length of the shocker mounting bracket and a suitable shocker. My YT is lowered so my dimensions will not suit your car and Gilles may not either. When you go shopping for shockers you will need a shocker with more extension than the amount of travel you have otherwise you will need to modify your bump stops as well which is what both Gilles and I had to do. I used Mini front shockers because they had a small diameter to fit in the space available but depending on brand they only have between 80 to 110mm of travel from full compression to full extension. Tony has said he used escort Mk 1/2 units which apparently had sufficient travel to suit his car without modifying bump stops and must have also been small enough to fit in the available gap. If this is the case the Escort units are definitely you best option. One other minor consideration if you decide on adjustable shocks is make sure the adjuster knob or screw is at 90deg to the shocker eye otherwise it my foul on the chassis or not be accessible for adjustments. Hope this helps.
Cheers Richo YT3208
R A Prior

Gents,
I have down a quick CAD drawing to show the critical dimensions & my layout for telescopic shocks.

I have sent it to Webmaster Paul to load on the IMGYTR website, so keep a look out for it.

In summary at the front you need a shock with a minimum of 115mm travel, while at the rear you need a minimum of 150mm. This retains the existing bump stops without modification.

The drawing will be updated soon with all the details and dimension of component parts when I have a bit more spare time. This will enable anyone with the skills & equipment to build their own kits, or get them made for them by a competent fabricator. Welding, metal turning (lathe work), drilling and tapping is required.

Tony Slattery
The Classic Workshop
A L SLATTERY

^^ Posted Tony's drawing today - 28 July 2014. See July 2014 News page at http://www.mgytypes.org.

Paul
Paul Barrow

So Jerry,
What have you done for your rear shocks - any road test report yet ?.

Tony
The Classic Workshop
A L SLATTERY

Nothing yet Tony!

Aim to do the conversion later in the year but thanks for all your help and guidance.

I will report back when the work has been completed and road tested.

All the best

Jerry
J P BIRKBECK

OK, no worries. Let me know if you need more dimensions on the drawings, or I could even supply photos after Sunday - the YT will be coming home !.

Tony
The Classic Workshop
A L SLATTERY

Hi Tony

Coming back from France this week and driving over there and the roads are far better than in the UK. I decided to go ahead and follow your example of fitting Escort Mk 1 shockers on the rear of the YT. I am aware that you have fitted them to the front of your YT as well.

I note in your early post on this subject back on the 22nd July 2014 that you mentioned that the Escort Mk 1 shockers are used and that they use the existing fittings on the rear once the originak damper is removed. I have ordered a set of new Escort shocks and they should arrive early next week - price including VAT and delivery 62 GBP.

I presume that I will need new bolts or do I use the existing? Very simple question but the obvious often escapes my mind!

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely

Jerry
Jerry Birkbeck

Hi Jerry,
You do use the original mounting points on the chassis, but you need to fabricate a substantial bracket to mount the top eye of the shock.

The bottom eye of the shock is carried by another bracket you need to fabricate that replaces the plate on the bottom of the leaf spring mounts.

I'll take some photos today & send them to Paul for adding to the website information.

Richo had a chance back in April to inspect my design, so he might be along soon with his verdict.

I also use all new Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolts to mount brackets & shocks, then you know what you have !.

Make sure you get Mk1/2 REAR shocks, front shocks are no use to you.

Good Luck

Tony
A L SLATTERY

Thanks for the reply Tony.
Yes I did order rear shockers!
The photos will be really useful as I can use these as a guide for the brackets to be fabricated. I can then make a card template and get the brackets made up at a local fabricators (there are several around where I live)

When you say substantial would a thickness of steel be 4-5mm? I can get the fastenings from a local supplier.

Thanks for all your guidance... oh and I havent totally dismissed the idea of fitting wires but that is a long term project say this winter!

All the best
Jerry
Jerry Birkbeck

This thread was discussed between 21/07/2014 and 16/06/2016

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