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MG MG Y Type - sunroof front fixings

Hi All
I've been looking closely at my sunroof fixings at the front ,the adjustable ones on each corner of the sunroof panel.
I think that there should be a captured nut each side behind the triangular plate to screw up into when fitting the front sliders. Am I right ? Mine has been butchered or modified and there is no sign of captured nuts at all . If I am wrong how the hell do you attach those front sliders ?
Also what size are the fixing bolts and do they have a particular head pattern ?
Thanks as always gentlemen
John B YA 4424
J K Bowman

John,

The sliding panel originally had 2BA "D" nuts crimped into position at the front corners to secure the front
sliders.
These were held in place by 2BA X 3/8" pan head slotted machine screws. These had non-standard heads: they are oversized at 3/8" in diameter and have a very low profile. I suspect this design was intended to minimize snagging/tearing the fixed headlining material at either side as the panel was slid open and closed.
The screw was fitted with a 2BA internal star lock washer.
Perhaps you could modify the head of a standard 2BA pan head screw. Finding, and fitting, 2BA "D" nuts may prove more difficult.

Rocky
Williamsburg, Virginia USA

Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

can you make pictures, have to do it in some weeks
and a pictures says more then 1000 words

THX
FT Franz

Thanks Rocky that's all I needed to know . Bit of fiddling needed then .

Cheers John
J K Bowman

FT
This will wait till the weather is warmer, but i will put some photos on when it is done .

Cheers John B
J K Bowman

Herr Franz,

Per your request for photographs:

Image 1 shows the original 2BA "D" swage nut in place in the front corner of the sliding roof panel;

Image 2 shows the 2BA X 3/8" slotted pan head screw original to the sliding roof and new 1/4 BSF and 5/16 BSF double "D" swage nuts. (I did not have a 2BA "D" swage nut in my spares to show you.) The double "D" nuts have two flat sides, the "D" nut only one; but you get the idea. The nut is crimped/swagged into the corresponding hole in the sliding panel.

I am sure you can fabricate both the nut and screw from stock you have. A 1/4" hex head bolt can easily be turned down and threaded 2BA to duplicate the 2BA pan head screw.

Hope this helps.

RC von Dullen





Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

Thanks Rocky that's a help to me too. No sign of D nuts around but I reckon I can weld a nut into the 1/2" hole which is what I have got in place of the D nuts .
Pan head screws are available in different thread forms so here's hoping.

Cheers John B Y4424
J K Bowman

Great information and timing...I'm in the process of trying to get my sunroof to operate better. I took it out, cleaned things up and made new felt pads to go on the back glides. The question I have is Should the rail for the sunroof be the bare metal or does the head liner wrap over it or is there something specific that goes there? Currently my headliner is wrapped over it and is tearing and doesn't allow the sunroof to slide smoothly. Is something need there to prevent water and wind?
thanks
WJK Kalafut

WJK,

The "rails" that are part of the fixed roof should be bare metal. The headlining cloth on ALL sides of the sunroof opening is tacked into the vertical faces of the 1/4" thick hardboard strips. The four looped wind excluder strips are then tacked on, followed by the four mahogany trim strips (using #4 X 1/2" chrome cs screws). The MGCC Y Register has produced an excellent booklet detailing all aspects of fitting the headlining:

https://mgyregistershop.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_61&product_id=70

I wrote an article some time ago that included engineering drawings of front and rear contact pads that can be easily machined from solid PTFE to replace the orig felt ones. Check the archive posts of this site. These give a more positive location on the rails, don't fray, and require no lubricant that might stain the headlining cloth.

Rocky
Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

Rocky
thanks for your response.
I will order the booklet to see how it all ties together around the sunroof. Not sure what the looped wind excluder strips look like. Do you know where I can get them, NTG?
I will take a look at the archive to see if I can find your post on the pads.

Bill
WJK Kalafut

Bill,

The MGCC booklet gives details of the draft excluder strips and all the other sections of the headliner. They are also pictured and discussed in Lawrence's LTBY's.
NTG sells a headlining kit, not individual pieces. It uses beige Union wool cloth and Hidem banding available from Woolies (their p/n's 32-BG and 240-BG) for a LOT less $$$. I found several of the pre-cut sections of the NTG kit were too small and ordered an additional two meters of fabric directly from Woolies.
The strips are stiffened with a material called interlining, available at any fabric store. I bonded it to the wool cloth with fabric glue before cutting and sewing each strip to form a loop.

Where in Illinois are you? We lived in Geneva, Kane County on the Fox River from 2000-2004. Our property taxes were $10K/year. We retired to beautiful Williamsburg, Virginia.

Rocky
Rodney C "Rocky" von Dullen

Rocky:

Thanks for the info...I'll check with Woolies if NTG doesn't sell it separately. I'm not completely restoring this car, I'm just trying to get it back on the road using what I can.

I was trying to find your article with your drawings on the contract pads....Do you know where it is hidden on the website?

We live in Westmont. We drive up Rt. 25 or 31 along the river to Geneva & St. Charles quite often during the summer. Have had many picnics at the windmill.

Bill
WJK Kalafut

This thread was discussed between 30/12/2020 and 18/01/2021

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