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MG MG Y Type - Water pump replacement
Chaps, I am in the process of fitting a new water pump on my YT. I did this once before when I first got the car about 15 years ago and I vaguely remember jacking up the front of the engine a bit to enable the pump to go in without having to remove the radiator. However looking in the old maintenance manual it doesn't mention that at all and there is no way that I'd've done such a thing off my own initiative. So my question is did I dream this? - is my memory playing tricks on me? Or if it is correct then where on earth did I read about this? Cheers, Saul. |
Saul Duck |
That is one way of doing it for sure. Also check out http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/hints&tips.shtml#XPAG%20Water%20Pump%20Potential%20Problem Paul |
Paul Barrow |
Hi Saul, I am mainly into TCs but I have worked on a few Y types, including yours before I sold it and it went back to England. I am almost certain that there is room for the pump to come out once the fan blades and spacer have been removed. My memory is of difficulty in getting to the nuts and bolts due to the bracket for the engine stabiliser, which is attached to the water pump bolts in Y-Types. To remove the OIL pump I know that the engine has to be lifted in a TC and possibly Y-Types. Bob Schapel (South Australia) |
R L Schapel |
Thanks guys. I think my failing memory must have been recollecting the lifting of the engine for oil pump removal instead of water pump, as that too is something I've previously done (and since forgotten about). I am hopeful now that I'll find that the old and new water pumps come out and go in respectively without issue - once I've removed the last troublesome bolt by the engine stabiliser!!!!!!! Should I remove the stabiliser first?? Cheers, Saul. |
Saul Duck |
Saul Before you remove anything else make sure you can undo the 4 bolts that hold the fan on as they can sometimes be very difficult. If you can't you will have to remove the Rad. I have replaced them in the past with M6 stainless steel bolts which enables the use of a 10mm ratchet spanner, making things easier for future removal. I have never had to remove the stabiliser. When refitting beware of the pulley key slipping out of line it will crack the casting as you re-bolt it. Peter |
Peter Vielvoye |
Yeah be careful - they can seize in there ... and snap like raw carrots! Paul |
Paul Barrow |
Thanks again chaps. I have managed to remove the old pump okay so am hopeful that the new one should go on without too much hassle. I unbolted the engine stabiliser from the chassis bracket so that it had more movement to ease the removal of the old pump and this seemed to work pretty well. I have opted for a new uprated pump from Racetorations which comes with the pulley already fitted so I don't need to worry about any keys or carrots ;-) Wish me luck with the refit. Cheers, Saul. |
Saul Duck |
This thread was discussed between 05/05/2016 and 10/05/2016
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