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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MG Y Type - Windscreen reassembly.

Has anyone done this recently? - I have the new sealing strip and cleaned-up frame ready to reassemble. The glass is a nice tight fit in the new seal, but the brass joiner will push up the sealing strip and make the fit very tight at that point on each side. I'm not sure whether to leave the sealing strip intact, lubricate and assemble carefully, or to blade out a rectangle of rubber where the joiner sits. My recollection is that the original (perished) seal did not have a cutout, so probably "lubricate and assemble with care" ... but I'm always grateful for any advice. Thanks as ever - John.


J P Hall

Hi John,
I have not done a YA screen, but have done a YT & Midget screen in the past.

I find it is best to trim the sealing strip to make room for the joiner, but whatever you do, don't let the frame near the edge of the glass - it takes very little effort to start a crack.

Plenty of quality lubricant too.

Good Luck

Tony
A L SLATTERY

Thanks Tony - I was hoping you'd pop up!
Yes, I found it best to excise a strip of the seal - too much pressure on the frame otherwise. Hope to finish the job tomorrow and will post a pic for reference. Yours, John.
J P Hall

... and in further news, the installation of glass to frame has not gone smoothly - several tries with soap, rubber grease, you name it, and still with the complete new seal as a "U" shape inside the frame, there's no way the glass was going to go fully home - at least without risking breaking a 68 year old windscreen. So currently experimenting with cutting the seal in half (lengthways) and installing it as a J shape instead of a U shape - the visible half to the outside, with enough to line the bottom of the channel; the idea being to more easily persuade the glass fully into the frame, and apply windscreen sealant on the inside, as it is far less exposed to water ingress.I'm left wondering what trickery was used at original assembly in 1949!
Thought it might be of interest to someone ... Yours, John.
J P Hall

Hi John,
Just a thought, is this a pre-formed U shaped rubber seal or flat strip rubber that you are using. Either way, is it just too thick to allow the glass to go fully home.
Keith
Keith D Herkes

Thanks Keith - yes, it's a flat strip, but as supplied from the UK, even with copious lubrication it is just too thick to allow the glass to go fully home; so I've sourced a rubber nearer to 1mm thick, and I'm going to have another go this weekend. I realise the fit needs to be as tight as possible, but the supplied strip made it nigh-on impossible.
Some would say I should just give up and use a good quality sealant-in-a-tube, but I'm loathe to do that unless all else fails.
PS - can anyone tell me what is the thread on the little brass screws which go into the joiners on the frame?? I've damaged one screw during my attempts so far.
Regards, John.
J P Hall

Hi John,
Do you have a Vernier or Micrometer to measure the thickness of the glass and the width of the frame opening ?. Perhaps the glass in a YA is thicker than the T-series, or your glass has been replaced in the past?.

The lubricant type can make a difference - I'm not sure rubber grease is the best in this installation. You could also soak the rubber strip in a pot of hot water to get it super soft before installation.

You may need to make a clamping frame, to squeeze the frame around the glass. I have a few spare windscreens if you run out of luck or patience.

I think the frame screws are BA thread, but I will have to double check after I get back from voting !.

Good Luck

Tony
A L SLATTERY

John, I think you going the wrong way about this, when i renewed the glazing strip on YB0362 i stretched the rubber strip around the windscreen and held it in position with a vast amount of clothes pegs!!i then left it for some weeks before, with a rubber mallet tapping the bottom half of the screen frame on, removing the pegs from the screen one at a time as the frame went on. i did not cut the seal where the joining blocks are.the corners are a bit of a bind as going leaves round a bit of a ruffles effect with the excess rubber do not put cuts here it all works out at the finish.If you promise not to laugh i will try to find photos of pegged out screen when i say lots of pegs i mean it as many as will go round the entire screen and as you tap the frame down you only remove TWO pegs at time.
by stretching you thin the seal down more to the size the frame can accommodate.
John YB0362
JC Jebb

Tony - good suggestions. Look forward to your confirmation about the brass c/s screw, as I will need to get a replacement and clean out the threads in the joiners.I believe the available channel width is 11mm, the thickness of the glass 7mm which would obviously allow 2mm each side, which sounds plenty - provided one's rubber strip is not too thick.Therein lies the problem.
John, I had in fact read of your peg exploits somewhere before! - it obviously worked for you, so if all else fails ... I'll buy my wife some new pegs.
Will report back with progress. Yours, John.
J P Hall

4ba std tap fits well in the threaded holes
John YB0362
JC Jebb

This thread was discussed between 16/11/2017 and 26/11/2017

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