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MG MG Y Type - Y Types in Winter

With the darker evenings drawing in we'll probably all be using our Ys rather less than during the Summer. Could anybody give me any tips on the correct way to store an older car over the Winter months. I am hoping to still use the car for regular short runs, but wouldn't want anything to seize up through ignorance on my part. Apologies if there is already some information about this on the site. I couldn't find anything.
Andrew Adamson

Others will have more information than me, but I believe in changing all fluids before storage. If you don't plan to drive at all in the winter you may consider draining the fuel tank. If you don't want to drain it, then fill it up. The worst thing to do is leave a tank partially full for long periods of time. If any condensation gathers in the tank it will rust, so the less air in a tank of fuel the better. I would also turn the engine at least once per month to keep anything from seizing and to keep oil where it should be. Other than that I say keep it covered and dry and you should be fine.
Steve Simmons

Give the car a full service, changing the oils and filters. Raise the car off the ground on blocks to save the tyres. Give the car a good wash and polish inside and out. Spray all bare metal and chrome with WD40. Ensure all under-surfaces have a good layer of WAXOYL or similar. Ensure the garage-shed is DRY and well ventilated, in the UK we get warmish days in winter after cool ones and this causes the cold metal to get condensed water, ( like dew,) on it. This rusts the insides of door skins, sills, chassis, etc. Good ventilation is the answer. NEVER store a car on a soil floor, or on grass, only on concrete or asphalt. Soil-grass has dew on it often, that is why cars in fields have no floors in them.

Every month run the engine for about 30 minutes at least, getting both the oil, exhaust system and water really hot, ( cover the rad.) Operate the clutch ( wheels off the ground as above.) Spin the wheels often to stop brake shoes rusting and sticking to the shoes. Operate the brake pedal to excercise the cylinders, or they will sieze up. Spray the carb with WD40 and the radiator fins. Regularly re-charge the battery after leaving the headlights on for fifteen minutes or so, to excercise the battery plates. An unused battery soon flattens and stays flat. Check tyre pressures often.

A car unused will soon suffer.

If you do not want to run the engine then you must inhibit the engine. For this you need to run the engine till hot, drain the oil, renew the filter. Refill with special inhibiting oil, run the engine again, and stop it. Then fill the cylinders with the same oil turning it over on the handle. Spray the outside of the engine with special wax sealer.

In Spring clean it all off again.

Good Luck.

Neil.
Neil Cairns

And...

Feed the leather seats with leather food. Nearly forgat that bit.

NC.
Neil Cairns

Run the engine, spin the wheels, operate the brakes...sounds like DRIVING to me! And yes, there are enough dry days, even sometimes on weekends, to take my Y on a tour, even over here in Switzerland. Just have to wear coat and gloves, as the heater is ridiculous.
Remo Peter

I'm with Remo on this! Remo, superb - love the humour!

Thanks - it brightened up an otherwise very long day!

Paul
Paul Barrow

I try to drive my YB at least every 2 weeks during the winter months.Those cold clear days are glorious but the road salt is a problem so try and drive after some rain. If necessary I clean it off with a washer and get filthy doing it.I feel very superior because my heater is superb, I have to keep the drivers window open! I like to have the windscreen open to listen to the tappets but passengers seem to object!
Ted Gardner

The advice given by me to Andrew was done so in good faith. It is the standard actions to take for any car put out of use to try to stop any deterioration of the function of the various parts. And yes it is like 'driving' the car, that is the whole point. I am sorry some found it worthy of sarcasm.

Neil.
Neil Cairns

Thank you to everybody who provided answers to my original question, especially to Neil for his thorough and detailed reply as always. Being new to Y Type ownership I really appreciate everybody's contributions, even the tip for regular outings, which I'm sure was meant in the spirit of fun which is, after all, a large part of what owning an old car is all about. Best regards to all.
Andrew Adamson

Just a question to Ted Gardner: You wrote that your heater is superb. I wish mine were as well! I have one of those round Smiths heaters, which gets hot all right, but when switching on the fan, after a minute or so all the heat has gone. Seems like I have insufficient water circulation. The heater is not to blame: I once flushed it with a garden hose, water flow was free. Please describe how your heater is plumbed into the cooling circuit. I guess something could be improved there in my case. I have been thinking of fitting an inline water pump for the heater. They exist for 12 volt operation to pump water in caravans.
Remo Peter

Ted, thanks for your very comprehensive separate e-mail. I do this here so no one will think my request was not answered.
Remo Peter

You are welcome Peter, I just hope it helps. I replied separately because I wanted to send several pictures which I don't think is possible on this medium.
Ted Gardner

I recently acquired a round Smiths heater in almost new condition. Originally I had an Arnolt type heater(still have it somewhere) but it did not fit under the battery box so took up half the the front passenger's leg room and put out a feeble amount of heat. Before installing the Smiths heater it would be helpfull if Ted could share his info with the rest of us. Perhaps on the Y site. Terry
Terry O'Brien

This thread was discussed between 02/10/2003 and 09/11/2003

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