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MG MG Y Type - YA/T front wheel bearing numbers?

Having failed the MOT yesterday, I'm in for some front bearing renewal...

Does anyone have current part- or series-numbers for the inner and outer bearings?

If I understand correctly they are ordinary ballbearings and looking at the NTG catalogue they are different from the YB/TD/TF/MGA?
For the YB/TD/TF/MGA the series numbers are 6304 (outer) and 6306 (inner). Apparently any bearing seller will know instantly what I mean with those numbers.

I plan to fit some of those "sealed for life" bearings, any advise on NOT doing so?

Please give me your "been there, did that"-story, it would prevent me making your stupid mistakes!
Willem van der Veer

Further "research" in the NTG catalogue reveals that the outer wheel-bearing is the same as the YB etc.: the 6304 (52x20x15).

Also in the maintenance manual there are dimensions of the stub axle and hub. Going by those dimensions, the bigger inner wheel-bearing should be 6305 (62x25x17).
Can anybody confirm?
Willem van der Veer

Willem: have the bearings actually failed, or do they simply need adjusting? I suspect your problem may be the second. Too much play in the wheel when gently rocked at top and bottom is the symptom.

Remember the YA hub uses bearings which are adjustable at the hub nut. If your bearings have not actually broken up and damaged their tracks, repack the bearings with fresh grease (not too much), use a new outer felt seal, and reset the bearing end play as per the manual. Use a new split pin to lock the hub nut when you're finished!
Tim Griggs

If any one wants/needs them I have some modern O rings that I have been trialing for sometime to replace the felt washer -I have tosay I amvery happy with them.

Email me off line if you are interested. I willonly charge what I pay for them plus shipping.

Paul
Paul Barrow

All wheel bearings YA/YB/YT are easily available from the MG Octagon Car Club cheaper than Moss or other "leading" suppliers and are even cheaper than the list price to members. As a member of both the MG Car Club, and the MG Octagon Car Club, I find the subscription for the MGOCC is extremely good value for money, and I usually get more than my subscription back per year from their good range of parts and their excellent magazine.

Personally I think these are two clubs worth being a member of (besides the local clubs here in the Northwest).

Prices for wheel bearings (in my MGOCC price list which may be a bit out of date now)are:

YB Front Inner £12.07
YA/T Front Inner £8.94
All Front outer £5.80
YA/T Rear £18.36
YB Rear - POA
All prices ex VAT and carriage.
Paul Barrow

Tim, the outer bearings failed, the larger inner bearings are fine and could be reused, but I won't.
I removed the right-hand side yesterday and discovered that they are the original Ransome and Marles (or something like that) bearings! Made in England, sir!

As they are ordinary ball-bearings, I don't think they are adjustable? I think only conical bearings (like the MGB?) are adjustable.

Paul, the outer felt seal was eaten by the bearing, so I am interested how a modern seal/O-ring would look like, maybe you can send me a picture? As the outer wheel-bearing is more or less flush with the hub, I wonder where a modern seal goes; on the hub or fixed on the stub-axle?
Willem van der Veer

Luck has it that the DAF-truck dealer, that houses in the same building as our office, had some old-stock SKF(!) bearings and the double sealed SKF6305-2RS1 (the 2RS1 denotes the double sealing) is perfect for YA-application (and free because of the old-stock status....) The smaller outer wheelbearing SKF6304-2RS1 is on order!

BTW, on the TD-TF BBS I saw a recommendation of the SKF6304-2RS1-C3, which would seem strange as the C3 denotes extra play. Not something I am looking for?
Willem van der Veer

Last Sunday I refitted the right-hand side wheel bearings, pressing them in with a big vice and everything went well with the 6305 and 6304 SKF's.

The only stupid mistakes I made when dismantling, was not to remove the circlip that holds the lock ring; and then it won't come loose! But I saw that quickly enough. I also slightly damaged the distance piece when I used the wrong (metal) drift to punch out the outer-bearing.

Tonight I'll try the left-hand side and won't forget that all the threads are "to the wrong side" and I've tailored a piece of hardwood to fit the inside of the conical distance-piece between the bearing to punch out the smaller bearing.
Willem van der Veer

I refered to this thread on the TD-BBS and with this reply I prevent it slipping into the archives too soon!
Willem van der Veer

This thread was discussed between 04/02/2006 and 15/03/2006

MG MG Y Type index

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