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MG ZR ZS ZT Technical - Door Panel Removal

Hi Guys,
I have now recieved my ZR120 electric window regulator, but have not been able to find a manual. I think that I have figured out how to remove the door panel, except that the door handle has me beaten. There are no screws or bezels that I can see. Can anyone advise how one releases the door handle from the panel?
C.S. Barrow.

I quote from the HAYNES Manual as you havnt found one yet, Page 11.9 Para 13.
DOOR INNER TRIM PANEL, removal and refitting.
Front Door
1) Carefully prise the centre escutcheon from the door handle outer escutcheon-n it is held by three clips.
2) Carefully prise the outer escutcheon from the door.- it is held by 4 clips.
3) Carefully prise the escutcheon from the door pull handle.
4) Remove three screws securing the door pull to the door, and remove door pull
5) doesnt apply its for manual windows.
6)Remove the screw covers and two screws securringthe trimpanel to the door- one screwat top outer edge, and one screw at lower inner edge.7) Working around the edge of the panel, carefullypullthe panel awayfrom the doorto release sixclips securingthe panelto the door.
8) As the panelis removedfrom the door, ensure that it israised torelease the door locking button. Disconnect the multiplug from the tweeter, and remove the panel.


REFITTING, IS A REVERAL OF THE REMOVAL PROCEDURE; Please excuse me if I laaugh!

AG Martin

Hi Arthur,
Again, many thanks for the information. I agree with your final comment when it comes to Haynes manuals. You either laugh, or else the tears of frustration run down your legs!
Does the manual support the written instructions with any drawings? The reason that I ask is that it is not clear whether the center escutcheon has to be prised forward (into the car ) or backward. (towards the outside). It also does not state what kind of clips are used. My guess would be that the clips are an integral part of the escutcheon, and one would prise it backward towards the outside of the car. Is there any further information to support this?
Additionally, I can find only one screw that secures the trim panel to the door. This is towards the front at the top, and it is obscured by the dashboard when the door is closed. I am not sure where the “lower inner edge” is.
Any additional information would be greatly appreciated!
C.S. Barrow.

Hi Chris,
Sorry I only quoted the manual, I don't actually know and there does not appear to be any supporting picture(s) to help. BUT knowing Rover of old, the clips are probably an integral part of the plastic moldings, and the plastic gets brittle with age. At least you hav'n't got low temperatures to cotend with which make the plastics even more brittle.
All I can say is " be very very careful....

If you can wait a few days, however, I do know a man who knows a man who was a Development Engineer at Rovers and I'll ask him to ask the ex-Rover man the question.
I shall be seeing him ( the manwho...etc) this weekend.
Regards A
AG Martin

Hi Arthur,
Again, many thanks. I will hold fire for a few days.
C.S. Barrow.

Hi Chris
Earlier than I expected but one of our club member's had removed the door trim on his ZR.
He says to prise off the bezel around the door handle with a large screwdriver and two screws will be seen that release the door handle from the door. He says that there are two screws, one top and one at the bottom of the door door trim.

He said to make sure that when replacing the trim fit the top edge into a recess on the door or you'll never get it back.
Hope this helps.
Arthur
AG Martin

Hi Arthur,
My grateful thanks!!
Chris
C.S. Barrow.

Hi Arthur,
A report-back with regard to the week end’s endeavours. Firstly, for the 2004 MG ZR120 the door panel removal goes like this:
The door handle inner escutcheon is prised inward and removed.
The door handle outer escutcheon is prised inward and maneuvered over the door handle. This frees the door handle for removal of the door panel.
The door pull handle cover is prised loose and the three screws holding the door pull handle (and the door panel) to the door are removed.
The two screws (one top and one bottom) at the front edge of the door are removed.
There is a triangular plastic cover over the electric mirror workings that must be unclipped and removed, otherwise the door panel cannot be lifted.
The door panel can now be unclipped and lifted away from the door.
And then, the big surprise. I was told by a mechanic at the agency where I have the car serviced that the window regulator gears were shedding teeth, and this was the cause of the loud clicking noise that I was hearing. In fact, the noise was caused by a screw that secures the regulator to the window working loose and fouling the mechanism each time the window was lowered or raised. Tightening this screw fixed the problem. I now have a brand new window regulator that I don’t really need thanks to an “expert” mechanic.
C.S. Barrow.

Ah well, remember the definition of an 'expert': Ex - a has-been. Spert - a drip under pressure.
PaulH Solihull

Ohdear!

My central door locking motor on the passenger side is making 'zipping' noises and experts have said that the teeth are stripping. I have already bought the new mechanism for when it fails completely, but it's been like it for two years now.
Perhaps one day I'll remove the trim and have a look.
AG Martin

I wouldn't leave the door lock like this too long. If it fails in the deadlock position the only way to open the door is to remove the door card with the door closed (remember, you can't get to one of the screws with the door closed!) and then air chisel the lock off.

Ralph Gadsby

Thanks Ralph, I'd better fix it real soon. What design idiot was allowed a free hand. Perhaps it was a production accountant.
The good news is that I have an air chisel!!
AG Martin

This thread was discussed between 10/08/2010 and 24/08/2010

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